Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies
After some use by my daughter, I'm getting the impression that the pads aren't that great. It's hard for me to judge with a stronger hand grip, and without the same weight to stop. But my expectation is that she should be able to easily come to a stop, not just have a gentle slow down. As a result, the brake hasn't given her the downhill confidence I'd hoped for. Maybe nothing will and I'm expecting too much of a four year old girly-girl, without just getting out there more and riding it. But if I can throw $5-10 of pads at it, maybe things would be better.
Online reviews of the brake don't rate the original pad highly either, so I think I'm on the right track.
The existing set up is shown below. It's a 50mm pad, with a threaded shaft and a domed nut.
I'm having a heck of a time understanding all the pad options on the market and their compatibility with different brands/systems. Seriously, how hard is it to have a pad that fits a slotted caliper arm and attaches with a nut or screw? Will anything do, or should I look for compatibility with any particular system? (or equally, avoid any particular compatibility?)
I think the only limiting factor may be not going for too long a pad due to the small wheel radius. But whatever is the grippiest compound available would be best, and given the use I have zero concerns about wear rate or heat capacity.
Thoughts and help appreciated.
Some searching suggests that clear or "gum" pads are the stickiest compounds. Often sold as BMX pads.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Cate ... goryID=523
Is there any issue bolting on a V-brake pad to a caliper brake? Just extra messing around with the alignment washers? Again the only real issues I can see is the pad length.
Further reading suggests:
a) v brake type pads will be fine and won't cause the bike to spontaneously combust
b) clear pads are as noisy as hell.
Maybe some Kool Stop Supra 2 in salmon?
A bit off-topic but I'm in the process of buying the same bike. I need to know how easy it is to remove the swingarm from the mainframe (just once for a very tight transport scenario). Is it just a matter of undoing a couple of bolts or is there more to it?
How did the brake end up? I'm pretty keen to add one myself. I don't really dig the way the caliper hits your frame, but the lever looks nice. Where did you source it?
Swingarm removal is not hard, I've done it once to upgrade the rubber suspension to the firmer piece (honestly though the suspension is overrated unless your name is Jackson Goldstone). There is a single screw on the underside (travel limiter) to remove (or was it just back off?), then undo the main pivot bolt and it comes off. Both are allen key heads, 5mm I think (You'll need two tools for the pivot bolt and its nut)
That said I managed to bring the bike back from Singapore in my suitcase with just the wheels and bars off, don't think I even had the forks out but they would come straight out once you got the bars off..
The brake is good, though the pads with it aren't anywhere near grippy enough (as per my earlier posts). I'm looking for some super grippy pads but everything regarded as such (that fits, must be a short pad to suit 12" wheels) is typically rated as very noisy (eg clear or gum pads used for BMX or trials). But maybe that's not a big issue for low speeds? (or maybe it's worse?). I have some Koolstops in my CRC cart...
A wrap of heatshrink around the barrel adjuster nut would minimise frame damage. (As would leaving the steering limiter on the bike...<edit> but you couldn't install both at the same time...</edit>)
The brake parts were from SJS Cycles in the UK, links in my post of 22 November. (and a brake cable and anti-fray cap too)
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users