Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies
4 posts • Page 1 of 1
Working on my next rebuild project a 1988 steel roadbike, fitted with Suntour Sprint 9000 drivetrain.
* Rear Hub Shimano 105 with Suntour Winner Pro 7Sp Cluster (removal with SUNTOUR 4-key removal tool No. TA-320).
* Chain Suntour SP6200 - Chain is neglected, presently soaking in Two stoke mower fuel to see if I can recover it.
=>> Not sure whether this post should be posted in "BNA Shed" or "BNA Retro"…SuperMOD, can move or link it if thought necessary…...
Some background on SUNTOUR SPRINT here
Suntour History a & Suntour History b
SUNTOUR PRO =>> SP-6200
•Dia-Hard pin treatment •High arch inner link plate* Finish: Silver (outer link)
Black (inner link) Size: V6"x%2" ultra narrow Pin width: 7.3mm Weight (116 links): 331g 'When fitting SP-6200 always ensure that the cut-away portion of the high arch inner link faces the centre of the chainwheel when viewed from the chainwheel side of the bicycle
SP6200 a, SP6200 b, SP6200 c
=>> notice the unique chain links......
Suntour Genuine Cables
Sprint 9000 Groupo a, Sprint 9000 Groupo b, Sprint 9000 Groupo c
NOS Full Group Set
Sprint 9000 Groupo d
Very neat Biddle Time Trial with SUNTOUR Sprint:
Biddle Time Trial
Considering all this I have a few Qu's, hoping someone can help……(as until now I have only had Shimano 600AX & Shmano 105.)
1) Can you measure the wear of a Suntour SP-6200 chain with a Park Tools CC-2? What would be the expected reading on a new chain? What would be the wear limit? Does someone have a NOS SP-6200 Chain Technical leaflet? Can you still buy the joining pins?
2) If the SP-6200 Chain cannot be recovered, is there somewhere in Australia that would have NOS for sale? I can see that some NOS SP-6200's have sold on ebay in the recent past ex USA etc
3) Do you think it is worthwhile trying to get the SUNTOUR Sprint 9000 drivetrain functional? ie clean everything probably new cables, and outers, recovered chain (or new chain)….or is it likely that it will chatter under load and shift poorly ie never with the same precision as my replacement option of NOS late 1980's Shimano 600 drive train?
4) Can the Suntour Winner Pro Rear Cluster be removed and replaced with a late 1980's Shimano 600 Cluster using the existing Shimano 105 rear hub? (I have to borrow a 4 Prong Suntour Removal tool to take off the existing Winner Pro cluster, just wanting to know before I head down that path)
5) Can the Shimano SIS Down tube shifters be fitted onto the Suntour Accu-Shift "Click" indexed down tube shifters Bidon Mounts?
6) The rear cluster ratchet feels okay but my preference is to strip it down and instal new grease on the bearings and pall teeth mechanism, are the Suntour Winner Pro rear clusters suitable to disassemble?
7) The OEM Suntour install doc's talk about using the Special Suntour Cable outers, ie not standard run of the mill spiral sheath, rather the platted wire sheath. "Jagwire" after marker cable outers have a platted wire sheath can these be used successfully with new stainless steel cables…..instead of the "Suntour Specials" ?
=>> Thoughts and experiences with Suntour Sprint 9000 Drive train welcome.
Chains are identical pitch to everybody else, so a standard chain wear tool will work fine for checking wear.
It'd be nice to have a NOS Suntour chain but really, any 6-8 speed chain will work and look nice. Shimano HG50 or similar look very much like the suntour chains anyway. The HG50 is specifically set up for the ramping / pinning on an indexed Shimano setup but they'll work fine.
I think it's worthwile to get it working - you might find it works better now than in period due to the better quality cable outers available.
I'm not sure the spacing on the Suntour sprint cluster and the shimano 600 are the same, you need to double check the spacing (might be something at Sheldon). If the spacing from centre of cog to centre of cog is identical, either freewheel will work fine. The 4 prong removers can be had from wiggle or ebay for less than $10.
You might be able to fit the shifters from a shimano set onto the ratchet mechanism of the suntour set but why bother?
I wouldn't worry too much about having to use Suntour specific cables - any gear cable used for indexing will be fine. The primary reason they specified specific cable outers in period was that normal friction cable outers used to have a bit of compression/give in them which didn't work well with the indexing at all.
Pretty much all the big manufacturers had indexing of one sort or another during the period, shimanos only real advantage was that theirs still worked when it was maladjusted. This isn't quite as true of the Suntour (and early Campagnolo synchro stuff either). However, that doesn't mean you can't get it to work beautifully with a bit of care.
So we get the leaders we deserve and we elect, we get the companies and the products that we ask for, right? And we have to ask for different things. – Paul Gilding
but really, that's rubbish. We get none of it because the choices are illusory.
Whilst I don't have too much specific input re: Sprint, I would note generally that there's no reason why this stuff can't work as well as (and some might say better than) the Shimano 600 stuff. I've had a couple of pairs of Sprint cranks go through my place, and they're well made, nice to look at, and seem to to their job well. Sprint gear was no slouch. It was designed to compete with 600EX/Ultegra, so I don't think you'd gain anything necessarily by going for the NOS 600 over refurb'ing the Sprint gear.
Some answers here in blue.
MY RIDES: My Velospace Profile
There seems to be a lot of differentiation without real improvement in this groupset as evidenced by the chain and cables which perform no differently to others of the period. I agree with Drubie that you could probably get it working better than the original due to modern cables and a more modern cluster.
4 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Mark Kelly