Australian Cycling Forums - Bicycles Network Australia

Rex wrote:Secondly, I haven't looked at any 'top-end' hubs but I can't believe they would be made of an alloy that soft.

AndrewBurns wrote:Also blame Shimano's insufficent spline depth, Campy freehubs have much deeper splines which means less concentrated stress and less of that kind of damage.

Rex wrote:Cheers for the replies guys.

I actually think it's both.
Earlier last week I took a close look at the previous cassette (before making my decision it needed to be replaced) and noticed it was VERY loose on the hub, like no tension.
Secondly, I haven't looked at any 'top-end' hubs but I can't believe they would be made of an alloy that soft.

Lesson learnt... time to buy a torque wrench

Rex wrote:I have a spare Shimano wheel and the hub body is fine on it.
Am I able to just swap it?

ZepinAtor wrote:If free hub body gouging is an issue you can install these AC "cassette clips" (or other aftermarket options) which have been used by some mates of mine with similar issues on their Cycleops power hubs.

http://www.amclassic.com/documents/help ... ltegra.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Alchemy wrote: Thanks for contacting me. I'm glad that you like the hubs. Unfortunately, Shimano 10sp cogs are especially hard on all alloy cassette bodies. The reason is that the cogs are thin and Shimano removed 1/3 of the splines on most of the "loose" cogs which exacerbates the problem.

Sram 10sp cassettes are definitely easier on alloy bodies than Shimano cassettes, especially the "red" version. However, the PG-1070 is still much better than the Shimano cogs (if you look closely, you'll notice that all of the cogs have a full complement of 9 splines, and the fit is better).

As for damage, it is unlikely that the "gouging" will cause you any problems. I like to knock the burrs off with a file when I install the new cassette. It is not necessary to put grease on the cassette body itself (although it doesn't hurt other than attracting dirt), but you must put grease on the threads and a little on the underside of the flange of the lock-ring. Many people fail to do this but it is very important. A torque wrench just measures the force you put into the handle and "clicks" when you reach the pre-set value. It does not measure the "clamping pressure" of the threaded assembly. If you install a lockring without any grease, the friction between the mating threads and the flange to cog contact will create a "false" torque reading. In other words, the point of a torque specification is to reach a desired clamping force. But, if the assembly is dry, the torque setting is reached before the assembly is adequately clamped (due to friction).

Rex wrote:Thanks for that info PG, much appreciated.

So is this case to go SRAM 10spd cassettes over Shimano?
I'll definitely be considering that when I replace it soon.

I too have never greased the lockring, but I haven't used a torque wrench either :/

Rex wrote:Yes, but I'm certainly not going to limit my future wheel purchase to Shimano only.
Might have to look into the ability to swap a shimano steel hub body to my next wheel purchase brand of choice. Not particularly looking forward to that.