Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies
17 posts • Page 1 of 1
last week heading home, a car almost ran me off the road but lucky i jumped the kerb but without buckling my rear wheel.
the tyre kept rubbing up against the sks mudguards so my first attempt to true the wheel seemed alright cause it stopped rubbing.
and a few days later it, the rear tyre started to rub again, tried to true it again but this made it twice as bad.
So i took it to my LBS, at first they said they would true the wheel but cause of the dent in the rim, he told me that it be better off buying a whole new so i wanted to check with you guys if it was BS or not...
so here's another dilemma my bike is a boardman hybrid team and the wheels are ritchey pro disc OCR with formula disc hubs
it would be cheaper to just buy a 700cc rim to replace but i dont have the tools to that
and i cant seem to find a rear wheel in 700cc rim with a mtb hub that can take a disc on wiggle or crc. do i need to get a custom build wheel? any ideas?
any advice much appreciated
That rim's only good for making beer cans now mate.
If you can find a similar Ritchey rim then replacement is simple.
If you can't then the options are a different new rim and correct spokes built onto your existing hub or a new wheel.
Try searching for 29er wheel but make sure the width of the rim works with your frame and tyres.
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
First off that rim looks toast, even if you could straighten it chances are it will fail due to stresses placed on it.
If the hub and spokes are fine I'd just source a rim and relace it. Id'd even send the pics to ritchey and see what they say. If they were 26" T7 has them as a set.
http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/RTW ... lset-qr-qr
I wouldn't want to ride on that rim, and I'm not thrilled about the tyre either. (Is the casing separating from the chafing strip at that point?)
Your description of making it twice as bad makes me wonder if you got your tighten/loosen directions mixed up (easy mistake to make)
If you can track down a similar rim (width, depth and with eyelets, brand is less important) then it is easy to walk the spokes across from one rim to the other.
The problem is that if the effective rim diameter (ERD) is too different you will need to get spokes of a different length. (Not forgetting that you already have spokes of two different lengths in that wheel) The real problem is that people use different ways to calculate the ERD so you can't get a reliable answer as to what the ERD of the wheel you have is v the ERD of the rim you want to get. This is why it is easier to use another rim of the same make/model, if it can be obtained separately. If you take two spokes out which are opposite to each other you can measure the ERD yourself (and then run the numbers through a spoke calculator to check their version). Some of them even have a list of rims and their ERDs plugged in so you might be able to figure it out that way.
If you can't find rims of the same depth with eyelets you would have to make do with slightly shallower rims without eyelets because they make a 2-3mm difference in ERD.
If that sounds all too hard you can just buy a new wheel which is easier and you can keep your existing one for spares or give/sell it to someone who can be bothered with the hassle.
Talk to Deon about something like these. http://www.pro-liteoz.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=95.
As suggested, measure up the ERD of your current rim and try and find something close to that. You can then tape the two rims to each other and walk the spokes over one at a time, tension and true and you are done....just like this:-
'11 Lynskey Cooper CX, '00 Hillbrick Steel Racing (Total Rebuild '10), '09 Electra Townie Original 21D
You guys are all a bit harsh, that rim has plenty of life left in that wheel. You could make a
. . . . . . .
Thanks Cam, the Lucca will be in stock this Friday - can ship them on Monday if anyone is interested.
Our Website is: http://www.pro-liteoz.com Find us on Facebook by searching for "Pro-Lite Australia"
you forgot hula hoop http://www.hooping.org/2013/01/bikes-and-hula-hoops/
What method would that be and which bike shop has the tools to do it?
+1 to that. Sounds like a challenging technique to learn but theres this dinged up rim in the shed I'd like to practice on.
London Boy 29/12/2011
Interested to see how you would fix it and then negate metal fatigue? I was always taught with alu structures once there bent they CANT be straightened as it weakens the Alu.
Kinda like bending a can one way and then back the other way.
Same as dropping your bike with alu bars and straightening them .
Not saying you cant fix them (mallet and some wood may straighten the rim) but just like straightened bars I wouldn't ride on ANY alu part that bent then fixed, as I value my life too much to save a few bucks.
had to double check the specs but i need a rear hub in 135mm and the lucca wheels rear hub are in 130mm
appreciated the advise guys
Saturnstarzz - probably make it the old rim into an clothes line in the garage to hang up wet gloves/jacket after the rain. love the inspiration links
In the future when i get the right tools or build em i'll attempt to swap the rims
but in the mean while i need to get my bike on the road (borrowing my cousin single speed and he wants it back)
if im looking for a new rear wheel or maybe a new set of wheels, what are the important specs i need to know before i buy them
basically i think i need a
-MTB type rear hub 135mm that can fit a 6 bolt rotor disc
-fit a 10speed cassette
-going with the old rim anything close to a 700c/622mm rim
anything else do i need to know??
This is a STANDARD 29er MTB wheel
The only thing you need to check is the rim is not too wide.
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Always looking for new rides & ride partners in SE QLD area
I have used a shifter and some cardboard for protection to straighten a rim in similar condition. I also tried it many times over the years and never considered it would be unsafe... Maybe I should have? Rode MTB trails for years, withi rim brakes too an didn't have any trouble. The rims are still laced up, but not in use at the moment.
If the buckle has not affected the roundness (no flat spot) and only affected the side/side shape I'd probably knock the bead section back into shape, true it up and ride away. If there is a flat spot in the rim, then it's toast.
I obviously have a higher repair to failure fear tolerance than the other contributors above.
bychosis (bahy-koh-sis): A mental disorder of delusions indicating impaired contact with a reality of no bicycles.
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