Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies
14 posts • Page 1 of 1
Maybe a mechanic or real techno weenie could offer something but I don't know that there's a good answer to that. There are are plenty of good quality hub manufacturers out there and I don't know that you could really pick much between them.
The rough guide might be the top of the line from each manaufacturer (be it Campy, Shimano, DT, Chris King, etc, etc), but even that's not much to work by. A top line hub might have compromises in design or materials to save weight.
I've got a Shimano 105 front hub at least 15 years old (and I got it second hand on a steel Shogun Ninja - that long ago), which just goes and goes and goes - the back might have lasted as long too if a LBS hadn't reassembled it with too few ball bearings in about 1996 . My Campy Chorus hubs are much prettier and perhaps have better workmanship in them but I don't think they necessarily roll any better.
In the Shimano range, you appear to be describing Ultegra.
While there are heaps to choose from, up from that would be White Industries.
A helmet saved my life
Probably lightweight... http://www.carbonsports.com/LW_Ventoux.lasso
But you can't get them without a wheel unless you want to glue your own spokes and rim on .
Unibet riders not only raced on them but had to train on them only as part of their contract...not sure what they would have done if they where aloud to ride Roubaix thou
They also make good hubs for touring and have a good reputation for reliability.
There is only one BicycleWA.
I'm pretty happy with the way my dura-ace hubs roll. A good way to test for how smooth they are is hold the the wheel with the valve horizontal and see how many times the wheel will move back and forth before stopping.
Chris king are bomb proof but noisy - sound like angry bee! mine have been on the tandem for nearly 11 years (20,00kms approx) and are still as good as new.
Phil wood are smooth and last forever but heavy.
For the track/fixie crowd, Phil Wood hubs are renowned. I'm not sure why they use an allen-key to tighten up the nuts, though. I've heard horror stories of wheels coming loose because an allen-key doesn't allow for sufficient tightening torque. That would be their only downfall. Otherwise, they don't break, and almost never wear out.
For legend status, though, give me a set of Maxi-Car hubs. French hubs from the thirties to the fifties. They were the first hubs to offer "sealed" bearings all those years ago. I've heard stories of people riding several hundred thousand k's on one set of hubs. Try doing that today (if you live long enough!)
No doubt about it, Harden Bacon Slicers from the mid to late 40's with oiled cartrige bearings.
Smooth, beautiful, distinctive, exclusive, classy, sassy, serviceable & hyper cool. You are NEVER second rate with these in your ride, yesterday, today, or tomorrow.
Hmmmmm, what's in the box?. ............................... No, not this.
Yes, it's this one. .................... Even a special model for those who can't make up their mind.
Some important information.
Carbine & SJH cycles, & Quicksilver BMX
Now that's AUSTRALIAN to the core.
14 posts • Page 1 of 1
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