Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
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6 posts • Page 1 of 1
I have a oldish Malvern Star Excel with Shimano 6 speed light action, is today's Shimano 6 speed compatible with the older stuff. My plan is to do up the old bike for a pub runner but the wheels are rubbish so I was going to buy a Reid Condor take a few parts of and stick them on the older bike.
Just to add pretty much anything on the drivetrain older than the current era 10/11 speed stuff is very cross-compatible in the Shimano world, assuming the same number of speeds. Great for making touring bikes which end up using half MTB stuff like cassettes and rear derailleurs, but road shifters and cranksets etc.
One notable exception is road vs MTB front derailleurs. The FD and shifter must be of the same 'type' (e.g. road shifter paired with road derailleur)
Pretty sure 11-speed is a stand-alone spec, (I haven't tried mixing things around with 10-speed yet to see) but from 10-speed down there is a lot of cross-compatibility - the only things that need to be matched are shifter, chain & cassette, and a few crank/front derailleur pairings. 8-sp. shifters can easily be made to work on 7-sp.gear; the sprocket spacing and indexing is the same, 8-sp. is just a whole gear wider. When the derailleur is set properly on a 7-sp. cassette, it locks out the 8th gear position because the shifter can't pull it past the limit stop.
Most flat-bar road shifters will work with MTB front derailleurs (there are also specific derailleurs for flat-bar road setups). MTB 10-speed has a unique leverage ratio, so shifters & rear derailleurs must be matched, but all others are interchangeable with road gear.
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.
Indeed - the 'original' 10 speed stuff like 5600/6600/7800 is just as interchangable as their 9-speed equivalents were. The guidelines got a little bit more complicated once 10sp MTB parts came about, and now the new brake lever pull ratios of the newer road groups, etc... making it a less simple than a rule of thumb nowadays.
Oh yeah, you can bodge it too I've had luck with an STI lever and a MTB front derailleur, but it involved securing the cable on the opposite side of the derailleur's pinch bolt than originally intended - and a good 20-30 minutes of v-e-r-y careful fine tuning in the workstand. Once done, I really didn't want to do a FD cable change on that bike!
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
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