im_no_pro wrote:Super Cheap Auto sell it as well.
This place has got EVERYthing!
Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies
This place has got EVERYthing!
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
the molybdenum disulphide poweder can be sourced from CBC bearings in 500gm tins, its very exxy, and you need maybe 2 gramms.... the sub micron size is better than the 4.7 micron size.
both the moly and the teflon will settle out of solution over time.
or Flea bay
1 oz MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE Moly MoS2 Powder SUPER FINE 1-2 micron BEST LUBE GRADE
½ oz MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE Moly MoS2 Powder SUPER FINE 1-2 micron BEST LUBE GRADE
Has anyone tried bees wax. it is softer and hence more flexible than paraffin wax - may stay on the chain longer as a result.
2008 Specialized SWorks Roubaix SL - Zipps - Campag - Nuff Said
1986 Spokesman Model 11 Racing - Campag Nuvo Record - Stronglight - Shimano 600
Everything I've read said not to use bees wax although some people advocate combining it with parafin wax at various ratio's but 80% parafin 20% bees wax was recommended by at least a few people.
I did a wet ride yesterday on a freshly waxed chain and the Parafin was horrible. 60km in and it was grinding pretty bad and I was still 80km from home.
Its definitely a "dry weather" lube. Good news is the chain is still clean, don't know how much I wore off it though but this particular chain is almost up for replacement anyway..
I've been thinking exactly the same question.
I've decided that I'll run the standard chain until the bike needs its next wash at which time I'll degrease & wax it.
This is because from what I read in the friction facts report the chain beds in during the first few hours of usage and some metal fragments will come out. As such waxing without the bed-in would be less effective.
If the rain is going to keep up here I'll be going to a wet lube as the wax fared really poorly in the wet.
The chain arrived, and I chose to wax it new, as the factory lube was quite sticky.
Didn't have a good time with melting the wax though. I pulled out the old stove and went outside, as I didn't want to stink up the house. Somehow I hit the flash point, and I had to put it out with water. Lost quite a bit of wax, but at least my chain wasn't in there at the time. With the remaining wax, I continued with more issues. Loose gas pipe caught fire , but died right away after I turned off the gas.
Didn't wanna risk it anymore, so I went up to the kitchen and continued successfully.
NOTE: if the wax goes a brownish colour, its getting too hot! It'll soon hit its flash point,so cool it ASAP before that happens.
Each supermarket now has an APP for smartphones (even the local Foodworks). Scan the barcode in and it will tell you which aisle to find it in (most of the time it is right). Aisle 5 in the central Ballarat Coles store Tim.
Merida 903 from the LBS; Diesel engine
That's crazy dude, get yourself a cheap crock pot from ebay or your local $2 shop. My wife asked her waxing lady and they never turn off their crock pot full of wax, it stays on 24/7 and has done for several years without issue.
When I do mine I just put the crock pot on "low heat" throw the chain in and after a few hours whenever I remember go and fish it out. No chance of fire.
200km update. This chain was cleaned up of the original oil and waxed up. 200km later, the cassette and chain look like this(no cleaning at all). Its been ridden in the wet once(about 15km), and I have hosed down the bike a few times, but the chain is still very very quiet. How far have you gone on your chain Deon?
I waxed up one of my old chains which went noisy, but I think I will go waxed from new from now onwards. I left my old chain in fuel and agitated it, and repeated til the fuel remained clear. Once out of the wax and installed, the wax came out black. Must still not have cleaned up the chain fully.
Probably about 300km mate before it started getting noisey to the point of needing to be re-done so at 200km you arn't far off.
It doesn't last as long as I expected from what I'd read online.
I've found if you lube with Rock N Roll after the wax job gets noisey its very easy to keep the chain real clean and quiet so you arn't having to re-wax so often.
The wax for sure is the ultimate though, pity its so time intensive but I'll continue to do it after each bike wash but once the wax gets noisey I'll switch to rock n roll until the bike needs a wash again..
You only need a very small amount of wet lube on a between-waxings chain, because the voids in the chain are mostly filled with wax and there's nowhere for the wet lube to go.
I don't think waxing is particularly labour intensive, because I use the wax bath as a cleaner as well. As you found above when you waxed after solvent-cleaning the chain, wax does an amazing job of getting the dirt out, even when there's apparently no dirt left in there.
So, rather than giving the chain a thorough agitating solvent bath, I give it a hot wax bath. Swings and roundabouts. While it's in the hot wok "cooking", I do some other little maintenance jobs on the bike, then pull it out, install it and we're good to ride.
Nah, I wont be using any wet lubes on my chain. What I meant was, before, when I was running lubed chains, RnR Gold made everything filthy. Wax is currently working well for me. Super clean and quiet chain.
Waxing is quick for me as well, other than the mishap I had at the beginning of August.
How were you using the RnR?
The correct proceedure is to apply a somewhat excessive amount, wipe off as much as you can then leave the bike overnight for it to dry. Its a very clean lube if used correctly and it ranks really high in the friction facts tests.
Not as good as waxing but perfect for "between" waxing.
I removed the chain, and hung it up. Pretty much poured the lube starting up top then headed down making sure I lubed each roller. Wiped off after 5 mins or so, then reinstall on the bike. I dunno, but its always ended up dirty.
So far Im happy with the cleanliness of waxed chains.
The way I use RNR.
Pedal backwards with the bike on the work stand and poor the lub on until you get it starting to drip onto the floor.
Get a rag, run the chain through it and wipe off as much as you can.
Definitely not as clean as a wax job but says cleaner than any other lube I've used.
650km update. Since my last post, I have not re-waxed the chain, bit there was in need to. The chain is still quiet, unless I'm cross chaining(big ring, big cog. Other way is fine). It's still very clean too. I have given it a wipe sometime in its life, but this is after 110km today.
The rear cogs are pretty clean.
The inner chaining has done about 550km since the first wax so it has gotten a little bit dirty. The big ring which I used for all of today is clean on the sides, and a little dirty on the teeth side(where it meshes with the rollers.
Anyway, this won't be doing too much work for the months coming until I get a new wheelset. I'll try to hit 1000km on the chain.
Does adding the Nulon impact on the cleanness of the drive train?
I have been waxing the chains for over a year or so and it would be neat to get a longer life out of the waxing - in dry conditions it lasts me about 300 - 400 clicks, but, when it is wet it pretty much gets trashed in one shortish ride.
On a recent ride down Wye River way we had a bit of rain and had to use some RnR Gold as a stop gap. Dirt black chain within a day!!! I would prefer to have a clean drive train rather than an extra week or two between waxing.
Is it clean, or at least cleanish with the Nulon?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: bychosis