Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies
21 posts • Page 1 of 1
The Pedros stand that I use is a very good one - very solid and stable but still folds very quickly.
Riding bikes in traffic - what seems dangerous is usually safe; what seems safe is often more dangerous.
I got a park Pr21 from chain reaction a couple of years ago.
I love this stand plus you don't have to worry about crushing carbon seat posts or top tubes
Sent from my GT-I9305T using Tapatalk 4
Veni, Vidi, Vespa -- I Came, I Saw, I Rode Home
I just purchased the Park Tool Pcs-09 and I am extremely happy with it! It is a solid piece of kit, I can't believe I put of purchasing one for so long it make servicing and cleaning just so much easier.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/e ... p-prod5787
I grabbed on of these a few weeks back works well stable I think the clamping system will be fine for your carbon frame http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/alumi ... ike/KP-445
I recently bought the Park Tool PCS-10 work stand, and I'm happy with this one, too.
I bought a cheap stand off t7. It's been incredibly handy- but the head on it is very poor quality.
Given how much I use the darn thing I'm thinking ill get one of those park tools ones next time.
Once you can climb hills on a bike it's all downhill.
Hopefully I'll know what that's like..... one day.
I'd like to hear opinions on a clamp style stand compared to a quick release / bottom bracket style stand. The latter seems like it might be more stable, but I can't help thinking that removing the front wheel every time would get old pretty fast.
This is especially true with disc brakes - mine always seem to rub after reinstalling a wheel, and the caliper needs relocating and rescrewing. How would you use a BB style stand if you actually wanted to adjust front and rear brakes?
With much end for ending of the bike...
If you're worried about clamping a cf frame, buy a cheap and nasty seatpost to fit and use it.
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
+1 most manufacturers recommend clamping via the seatpost and wrap some old bar tape around the seatpost before clamping, protects your seatpost and you dont have to worry about fitting a cheap and nasty one.
I bought a cheap $99 from cycling deal on ebay and the feet broke off .
Solution was to screw into my work bench which means I can only work on 1 side of the bike but it take 30 seconds to flip it
This one doesn't require wheel removal:
Always looking for new rides & ride partners in SE QLD area
I've been using a topeak prepstand pro for a few years now, it's an excellent bit of kit. It might be one of the more expensive ones on the market but I use it allot and will be for years to come. I wash my bikes in it as well as work on them and it has a scale on it for weighing bikes which is very accurate. It's strong, stable and packs up easily to put in the car.
I have the same one and agree with your assessment. Cell used to have them quite cheap but they ran out of stock. Ended up getting mine from a small bike shop in Penshurst Sydney which had one in store.
I really like that toppeak, but aghhh a bit of complaining on how we in Australia get ripped off! Best I can find is $349. But then Amazon has to tempt me with $239!
http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-PrepStand- ... B000FI6XKS
'clamp' workstands are terrible
not particularly stable and you cant really do important jobs like torquing up a bottom bracket with them
the best designs are the one that have a QR for the fork and a little spot to sit the BB
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8157/7387 ... 566d_b.jpg
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Park-Tool-Su ... 0823921663
if you know how to use a MIG you could probably make one of these yourself in a couple of hours
if i get killed while out on my bike i dont want a 'memorial ride' by random punters i have never met.
Personally I think for 99% of jobs (cleaning, checking the shifting, anything that doesn't need the bike to be held really firmly) all you need is a rope from the roof overhead and around the saddle and stem. Unless you are a bike shop you don't often need a stand that is capable of holding the bike for a bottom bracket changeout or similar.
$2 for a piece of rope from Bunnings. No risk of overclamping carbon or having to put in an alternative seatpost.
I have the Feedback Sports Pro Elite - clamping style - http://thehut.pantherssl.com/productimg ... 663990.jpg
For washing, I'd guess the bottom bracket type would be better (more stable/compact). It seems to be what the pro teams use.
For maintenance, I adjust the height and particularly the angle depending on the area worked on. I would not want to give up that flexibility.
21 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users