Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies
18 posts • Page 1 of 1
Yes me again, I thought I'd just about had this bike build all sewn up.
The last thing to install was the SRAM PC1070 PowerLock chain.
Silly me thought it would fit straight on - being a 10 speed chain supplied with a 10 speed cassette
So now I have a new saggy useless chain that is PowerLocked and to long, doesn't seem to be a way to 'break' the chain as its a HollowPin?
did you cut the chain?.New chains usually need 6 links cut off.SRAM say their joining links don't come to bits but I have never had a problem getting them off.Will take a bit of effort when new thou.Will be fine to re-use as long as you aren't rough with it.
Nope haven't touched the chain, only joined it.
Is there a specific chain tool for hollowpin chains? Looking now, but haven't come up with anything. There must be something.
Funny - I tried to fit a SRAM 10 speed quick link to a Dura Ace chain and the sucker wouldn't even close... Do they intend that 10 speed links are not/less removable than the 8/8/7 speed powerlinnks?
(Is the powerlock link different to the powerlink that i've used in the past?)
Yep, the sites say that the SRAM 10sp is PowerLock and is not re-usable, whereas the 8 & 9sp ones are. Dumb.
I ended up getting some KMC links as I couldn't source the wipperman ones at a decent price.
As others have alluded, the chain needs to be shortened out of the box. Use the old chain as a guide. Shouldn't be any different tools req'd to remove a link with the SRAM chain over others, but haven't had experience with anything other than Dura Ace ones.
What is the point of a link that you can't remove? Why not make it removable?
Weird - or are 10 speed chains a bit too narrow to have the play required to make a link removable?
I too was hoping to get some KMC links, but CRC are sold out of them...
Nope, a normal Dura Ace chain. The std chain tool should work, as the pin/rod still gets pushed out, only that it is hollow.
The mechanism on the chain breaker is such that the OD of the pin is the same as the OD of the pin link on the chain.
Can't see why it wouldn't work.
Same here, I can't see why a std chain cutter wouldn't do the trick. Bit of a pi55off that powerlock is single use
According to Shamino and a few LBS blokes I've yarned with, correct length is found by wrapping the chain around the big/big combo, ignoring the derailleurs, where the ends overlap you drop one link.
Hope that didn't sound like ruddish
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
Wouldn't that mean that you would not be able to use the big/big combo at all as the chain would be too short ?
I've seen other versions, but so far have just used the previous chain as a guide.
The most authoritive one I have seen is that when on the big/big combo, the lower RD pulley shouldn't be in front of the upper RD pulley.
Thats the Zinn version too. Big/big combo, the RD jockey wheels should be 'stacked' at about 90deg. This seems to work well.
I use my stock BBB chain tool on my chains. Even on the hollow pin Chorus chain it worked nicely. Just gotta be more careful with driving them back in again.
The Powerlock does seem like a daft idea. One off joining isnt really user friendly. Convenient closure with all the problems that come along with using a chain tool to break and join a chain?
MY RIDES: My Velospace Profile
I'm assuming, but I think he really meant Big/big + one link pair. That's what's described in the instructions I've got in all my recent chain replacements (I go through a few a year) and is what Zinn says in his various maintenance books as well.
Every bike I've bought or seen new in the LBS has the chain length set at least two to three chain link pairs too long. The consequence is crappy shifting and a propensity for the chain to drop off the inner ring when downshifting at the front. Why they do this I have no idea, but it seems to be a consistent pattern!
With the chain length set as described above you can still get big+big, but you have enough rear DR tension to stop the chain dropping off the inner ring, and your shifting becomes a lot crisper.
Sheldon Brown's site mentions one of the Zinn methods and has links to a video from Bicycle Tutor
Also has a good discussion with pix about chain use wear etc...
This might be why i think I am getting more chain slap than I thought I ought having put my SRAM chain with power lock straight on without even considering removing links ' babes in the woods' though the RD seems to be in all the right positions and I can select all 27 gears with no problems....
I also have a tendancy to jump off things at spped which probably adds to the chain slap issue.
18 posts • Page 1 of 1
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