Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
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So I thought the threads were stuffed in my cranks.. turns out there was 1 key peice of information I was missing when putting the pedals in:
Pedals are left and right side specific..
Oh yeah, forced them into the wrong sides.
now one of the pedal holes is completely routed (excuse the pun), but i can slide it in and out like a well lubed somethingorother.
damnit. bought a new crankset, big ring is larger than the old one, so the teeth sit within 1mm of the frame, there's some weird metal scraping noise too.
You can buy 're-threading' kits - try some-one like Moruya Bicycles or your lbs - although it might be simpler to buy new cranks.
The best basis of learning is experience, so as long as you're learning ...
Litespeed Classic - 3Al/2.5V titanium tube set, Record 9-speed groupset, Open Corsa Evo CX
Alchemy Diablo - Columbus Zonal tubing, Ultegra 9-speed groupset, UltraGatorskins
Gitane Rocks T1 - U6 tubing, Deore/XT groupset, CrossMarks
They make the thread in your crank bigger, then screw a metal piece that looks like a tightly wound spring called a helicoil in there and theres your new thread.
Striving for mediocrity.
Helicoiling a crank is not an easy task to do properly, not that I have never done it but have put a few helicoils in other things over the years. The hole for the helicoil must be drilled and tapped in the same plane as the bottom bracket mounting hole so that it stays parallel with the bottom bracket in all planes, otherwise as you pedal your pedal will move in/out or up/down and feel all weird as if you have a bent pedal spindle.
IIRC the only BBs that don't run opposite threads on the cups is Italian, but I may be wrong...
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
I'm curious about the clearence problem with the big ring. Are you sure the bottom bracket axle length is correct?
Its a bit late now, but almost all pedals are marked L & R. Given that you will be putting a lot of force on the pedals, might be safer to just get a new crankset. The Tiagra level HTII ones are nice, and not that expensive from PBK or Chainreaction.
Most bike parts are designed such that if one were to mount it incorrectly, the parts just will not fit in correctly. Eg, shimano crank arms for the non-drive side (HTII), they are splined slightly differently on each side to ensure that it can only fit in one way, which is when it is aligned correctly IRT the drive side crank arm.
With the clearance of large chainring to the your frame, I presume you are mounting the road chainrings to a road frame? You may have clearance issues when trying to put a road chainring on a MTB frame.
One thing you could do is to buy a spacer (I think they come in 2mm widths) and space out the drive side. You will have to adjust your front derailleur correspondingly tho.
Personally I'd just get a new crank set. As it will come with a set of chain rings, you will recoup a lot of the cost when it comes time to replace your existing chain rings.
If the chain ring is too close to the frame, then you can always replace the bottom bracket, they don't cost much.
Got bored of my signature
+1 for new crankset - especially if you'll be riding in traffic. You really don't want your cranks/pedals to fail under pressure. Many years ago I snapped a pedal spindle on my brother's old mtb. One minute I was out of the saddle, cranking up a hill, the next I was flat on the tarmac with a bike on top of me - any traffic in either direction and I would've been underneath it.
I think the new crankset is probably for road frame, not mtb.. though I'm not sure, it's an FSA Vero crankset.
So do I need to buy an MTB crank? fark.
Dangit, probably should have bought something like this:
Just wanted larger chainrings than currently on it.. hmm.
Anyone want to go in on an order from Chainreaction, delivered to Sydney?
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