The price of learning to do it yourself..

[janus77]

So I thought the threads were stuffed in my cranks.. turns out there was 1 key peice of information I was missing when putting the pedals in:

Pedals are left and right side specific..

Oh yeah, forced them into the wrong sides.

now one of the pedal holes is completely routed (excuse the pun), but i can slide it in and out like a well lubed somethingorother.

damnit. bought a new crankset, big ring is larger than the old one, so the teeth sit within 1mm of the frame, there's some weird metal scraping noise too.

[sogood]

Never force any of the components together. If it doesn't fit, stop and think.

[janus77]

thinking since the crank arms are the same length, and the left crank is the really bad one, I might just replace it with the newie, and hope the old one holds on the right side.. sigh

[janus77]

Pedal fell off half way up the anzac bridge this morning, should be an interesting ride home, haha.

[Caelum]

you're excused, so long as you ARE actually learning...

[janus77]

Hahaha, far out I hope so!

My commuter has copped the brunt of it, haven't got the nerve to try tinkering with the kenevans..

[LuckyPierre]

You can buy 're-threading' kits - try some-one like Moruya Bicycles or your lbs - although it might be simpler to buy new cranks.
The best basis of learning is experience, so as long as you're learning ...

[mikesbytes]

Oh well. A new set of cranks coming your way.

Are the pedals OK ?

[janus77]

does re threading work though if the hole has been gouged out too much and is bigger than the pedal spindle?

or do the rethread kits attach a new peice inside the hole?

[janus77]

the pedals are ok, but I'm not 100% sure the cranks fit. the big cog is larger than my current one and runs dangerously close to the frame..

[vx255]

does re threading work though if the hole has been gouged out too much and is bigger than the pedal spindle?

or do the rethread kits attach a new peice inside the hole?

They make the thread in your crank bigger, then screw a metal piece that looks like a tightly wound spring called a helicoil in there and theres your new thread.


http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp

[janus77]

Ah ok, I get you now.. I guess that could work.

[ausdb]

Helicoiling a crank is not an easy task to do properly, not that I have never done it but have put a few helicoils in other things over the years. The hole for the helicoil must be drilled and tapped in the same plane as the bottom bracket mounting hole so that it stays parallel with the bottom bracket in all planes, otherwise as you pedal your pedal will move in/out or up/down and feel all weird as if you have a bent pedal spindle.

[twowheels]

be aware also that the bottom bracket right hand thread MAY have a left/opposite/gas thread >>> sheldon brown i think explains why, BUT varies from BB to BB, so find out BB type/maker before you start playing around with BB

[Mulger bill]

IIRC the only BBs that don't run opposite threads on the cups is Italian, but I may be wrong...

Shaun

[Bnej]

the pedals are ok,

Pedals will always be okay - cro-mo pedal threads vs aluminium crank threads, the pedal will win every time!

It's because the cranks normally cost more.

[munga]

unbolt the old chainring and fit it to your new crank spider.

[MountGower]

I'm curious about the clearence problem with the big ring. Are you sure the bottom bracket axle length is correct?

[thomas_cho]

Its a bit late now, but almost all pedals are marked L & R. Given that you will be putting a lot of force on the pedals, might be safer to just get a new crankset. The Tiagra level HTII ones are nice, and not that expensive from PBK or Chainreaction.

Most bike parts are designed such that if one were to mount it incorrectly, the parts just will not fit in correctly. Eg, shimano crank arms for the non-drive side (HTII), they are splined slightly differently on each side to ensure that it can only fit in one way, which is when it is aligned correctly IRT the drive side crank arm.

With the clearance of large chainring to the your frame, I presume you are mounting the road chainrings to a road frame? You may have clearance issues when trying to put a road chainring on a MTB frame.

One thing you could do is to buy a spacer (I think they come in 2mm widths) and space out the drive side. You will have to adjust your front derailleur correspondingly tho.

[mikesbytes]

Personally I'd just get a new crank set. As it will come with a set of chain rings, you will recoup a lot of the cost when it comes time to replace your existing chain rings.

If the chain ring is too close to the frame, then you can always replace the bottom bracket, they don't cost much.

[m@]

+1 for new crankset - especially if you'll be riding in traffic. You really don't want your cranks/pedals to fail under pressure. Many years ago I snapped a pedal spindle on my brother's old mtb. One minute I was out of the saddle, cranking up a hill, the next I was flat on the tarmac with a bike on top of me - any traffic in either direction and I would've been underneath it.

[janus77]

unbolt the old chainring and fit it to your new crank spider.

Unfortunately the new spider is larger too..

[janus77]

I think the new crankset is probably for road frame, not mtb.. though I'm not sure, it's an FSA Vero crankset.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21848

So do I need to buy an MTB crank? fark.

[janus77]

Dangit, probably should have bought something like this:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7600

Just wanted larger chainrings than currently on it.. hmm.

Anyone want to go in on an order from Chainreaction, delivered to Sydney?

[Caelum]

*points janus77 towards the edit button*