Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
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13 posts • Page 1 of 1
I noticed tonight what I'm pretty sure is a little bit of play in the hub bearings of the rear wheel. Anyone with experience here? I'm 99% sure they are sealed bearings so I assume they aren't serviceable and I just need to rip them out and replace.
The wheels have roughly 8,000-10,000km on them. I'm a lightweight weakling who generally looks after my gear very well. I'm a little surprised that they have issues although can't really complain since they've performed admirably for the grand price of $187 shipped from Wiggle a couple of years ago.
I'm confident I can sort this myself, just looking for any special tips that might be out there. Hopefully they'll use a generic bearing size that I can get cheaply, unlike UT cranks which use a narrow bearing that I can't find ANYWHERE except the genuine ones.
I'll post back with the outcome and part numbers, costs etc in case anyone is interested.
Update: I had the wheel off today as I got my first puncture in I-can't-remember-how-long. The bearings are nice and crunchy when turning the axle by hand so they are definitely spent. Google tells me that they use a 6001 RS bearing (rubber seal on outside, no seal on inside). I ordered some cheap 6001 2RS (rubber seal both sides) from fleabay so will fit them and update again - hopefully to confirm the problem solved.
Please do update. Have had the same problem with mine. Great wheels but bearings die too soon. I clock ~20k a year and used them for 3 seasons. They still good except for the bearings. I used to be able to tighten them up with axel nuts but now they're shot for good. I would be curious to know how you get the bearings in and out.
No problem Nikolai, I have a couple of approaches to getting the bearings out but can't tell you the best way until I open it up and have a look. If I can get bearings out of a 1980 Kawasaki wheel I'm confident I'll get these out!
I actually ordered a pack of 10 bearings, they were cheap enough that once I included postage it wasn't much more than just getting a couple. If they are decent, I'll send you a couple of spares when they arrive here.
Bearings come out easily from these hubs using a blind bearing puller...though there are other 'methods'. Getting them back in without damaging the cups is key to the long life of these hubs - a proper bearing press tool is highly recommended.
Any bearing shoppe has the 6001 bearings and they aren't expensive - even the good ones. Both the Campag and Fulcrum wheels suffer from cheap rubbish bearings straight from the off...
Another source is the local Enduro bearing distro, DIYMTB. They have the standard 6001 for $4.50, the ABEC5 version (called 61001) for $11.50, the ceramic version for $23.55 and ceramic hybrid version for $40.81. Personally, I'd run to the ABEC 5 version rather than go ceramic. Especially if your rear hub has four bearings in it!!!
Ours is not to reason why...merely to point and giggle
Thanks KGB Makes me wonder why wouldn't they use good bearings in the first place? They got everything else right with these wheels? Make them 20 bucks dearer and they still cheap, good wheels. What happened to Campagnolo?
Thanks for the info silentbutdeadly. I'll have a look at the bearings I've ordered when they arrive and see how they feel. Otherwise, I agree that ABEC 5's would be the best compromise in this situation and might end up getting some if my new bearings are nasty.
OK, long over due action on this wheel.
I finally diasassembled the wheel, which was very easy. So easy its not even really worth describing, just get a pair of 17mm spanners on the lock nuts and undo... Just make sure you lay everything out in the right order so you don't mess up the reassembly.
First step, put the new bearings in the freezer. Probably doesn't make much difference but any contraction/shrinkage will help.
I used a 12mm dynabolt as a blind bearing puller: insert into the bearing, tighten the dynabolt to wedge inside and then tap out from the opposite side. Easy.
To put the new bearings in, I heated the empty hub body with a heat gun to help it expand. Not too much and not too fast. I figured it was better to play it safe rather than risk ruining any heat treatment on the spoke heads and freewheel ratchet race (I know this would probably require 500 deg + and for longer than I was working...). New bearings were tapped in with a rubber mallet until flush with the outer edge of the hub and then I carefully tapped them into place using a mallet and a large socket. My large spark plug socket is almost an exact fit for the bearing, meaning it rests on the outer race only and won't cause any side-loading while tapping them in. They ended up going in quite easily anyway.
No more play, no more crunchiness when spinning the axle. There is 4 bearings in the rear hub, two 6001 RS bearings in the hub body and two 6901 2RS bearings in the freewheel. I didn't have the 6901's but luckily they felt fine and I had no choice anyway but to leave them. The 6001 bearings are only a single RS as already mentioned in this thread. It was my non-drive side bearing that failed, it was nice and brown and dirty when I pulled it out. New bearings are 2RS.
I have plenty of spare 6001 2RS bearings now, if anyone needs a couple just give me a yell. Nikolai; if you want pics or more detail just send me a PM.
Just a day after I buy a 10 pack of bearings from eBay for my Fulcrum 5s, you offer this up. I'll have to go pick up a 12mm DynaBolt though. Last time using a 8 or 9mm socket to punch them out took a fair bit of effort.
Bah! Sorry mate!
The dynabolt worked a treat although it does get a bit mangled. You really only need it for the first bearing (either one). Once that's out you can remove the spacer that sits between them and you have a free shot at the other side.
I picked up a set of these wheels from Wiggle a few days ago and would like to keep a spare set of bearings, or even change over the factory bearings for a better set, as these will be my wet weather wheels. Just wondering if you know which bearings are used in the front wheel?
Sorry SB, didn't get around to working out the front bearing numbers. If I did, I've forgotten!
Luckily, it is super easy to check. The "cones" or lock nuts are really just cap pieces that thread on to a central axle. A spanner on each side and they're straight off, allowing you to read the bearing size straight from the bearing. If I get a chance I'll open them up and post the size here - I assume you haven't received your wheels yet.
Thanks for that. I actually have received the wheels, and just put tyres on last night. If it's that easy I should be able to do it myself If I get to it first, I'll put up the bearing type too.
13 posts • Page 1 of 1
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