NOS rims laced to modern hubs?

[n+1]

I am considering buying a pair of NOS Nisi G27 tubular rims ( low profile box section rims, double eyelets, 32 hole, circa 1990 ) and lacing them to new record hubs 2x front 3x rear with Sapim cx ray's and brass nipples of course. retro gone all black . Does anyone have experience lacing up old rims to modern spaced hubs?.
I have heard / read that the tension required to hold the dish for modern rear hubs places undue stress on older rims causing them to fail, particularly drive side.

[find_bruce]

Hi n+1 & welcome outside.

I build my own wheels but make no claims to being expert. With that qualification (1) IMO a reliable wheel can be built with those parts & (2) I am confident that if I am wrong, people with more experience will step in and correct me. My go to source is Roger Musson's Guide to Wheel Building. What he says is as follows:

The limiting factor for spoke tension is the rim because it is subjected to extremely high compressive forces and it can only take so much before it starts to lose its shape, see the discussion on rim compressive force on page 16. The spokes cannot be damaged from over tightening. The main variable here is the type of rim, a road rim cannot take as much tension as a smaller diameter mountain bike rim, a rim with a deep section can take a higher spoke tension, a heavier rim can take more than a light rim. Most modern rims tend to be well designed and can take the spoke tension with ease but be careful with lightweight non-aero road rims or if you are building older rims.

As you tighten and stress the wheel there should be little change in lateral trueness. If it goes significantly out of true after stressing in the latter stages of final tensioning then it’s likely the spokes are too tight and the rim has reached its compressive limit. In this case it is wrong to correct it by further tightening so back off all spokes half a turn then make minor adjustments to finish the wheel.
...
When using a tensiometer you check the spoke tension in the tight side of the wheel and the other side just happens to be whatever it is in order to ensure the correct wheel dish. If you want a numerical tension then I always aim for 125-130kg on all wheels and never go looking for the theoretical maximum the rim can withstand.

[Duck!]

No reason why you can't build new hubs into them, as the previous post says, just be careful not to overdo the tension.

[geoffs]

I've seen these rims break and I just wouldn't touch nisi rims with a 10' barge pole. They might last for a while if you're a lightweight but unless these are just going to be for occasional use - don't.
If you are after a classic box section rim have a look at Mavic. Just avoid their really lightweight rims

[n+1]

I have also posed this question on weight weenies http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 3&t=126117" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and getting some mixed responses there also... more research me thinks

[n+1]

so i saved my dough and blew it on my wanted G27 rims. Damn! they are way too low in profile to take modern brakes. On the positive side at 450gm with double eyelets they should take enough tension to make sound (and hot looking) set of track wheels.