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10 posts • Page 1 of 1
I have the same issue Geoff. It would be lovely to just bung em into a dilute acid bath, but the problem is that you want to chemically convert the rust (Fe2O3) but not convert the thin anodizing layer (Al2O3).
There may be a process that converts the rust & not the anodizing, but I am unaware of it. Similarly I am not aware of any practical way to remove the eyelets and replace them.
What I am thinking of doing is making up a dilute solution of phosphoric acid and then using a cotton bud to apply the solution to the eyelet. While dilute, the acid will be stronger than the oxalic acid used to soak steel parts in. My plan is to only treat 4 eyelets at a time taking care to ensure the acid doesn't come into contact with the rim. It would be better if I knew where to get the acid in gel form.
After a few minutes, I will be rinsing the acid off, cleaning up with steel wool & then polishing the eyelet using a dremel.
Happy to hear about other suggestions
Riding for country kids, 28 February - 1 March 2016 Donations accepted here
Petroleum jelly over the Al before application of corrosives?
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
I think I have a bigger problem than you guys. Pretty much all the eyelets in the Open 4CD were like this. This wheel must have been submerged once before. But, I'll just inox it and it'll be fine. The eyelets that are on the other side of the rim are stainless and are still good.
QV thats similar per my post "MAVIC Open 4 CD - spoke eyelet recess Corrosion" Sun Jun 01, 2014 6:58 pm
For the most recent set, removed all spokes. Cleaned out "spoke recess well" with circular wire brush in drill, wiped out with turps, cleaned further with AL foil, wiped out with turps again, then carefully applied rust converter Rainex, painted "spoke recess well" with killrust "Aluminium colour" then rebuilt the wheel with marine grease at the "nipple" to "spoke recess well" interface. Time consuming but solved the problem well.
I've had other acquired secondhand MAVIC Open 4 CD's with the same problem previously that were too far gone and the "spoke recess well" had rust holes in them which were revealed on cleaning.
The ones I have had the problem have had "Plastic RIM Liners" rather than cloth. My thought is "Plastic RIM Liners" don't breathe & keep the "spoke recess well" wet accelerating the corrosion.
Mine had cloth tape. The front wheel was a bit rusty, but normal. The rear was like that, but amazingly, no stuck nipples. There were already 3 broken spokes all at the head. Some of the spoke recess wells have rusted though, but I don't think that's an issue. They are only secondary eyelets. It's the stainless eyelets that actually hold in the nipples, preventing them from coming through the rim.
10 posts • Page 1 of 1
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