Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
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11 posts • Page 1 of 1
Had a bit of a sticky at the Cycleops frame fork which is something nuts like 80 bucks for a couple bits of metal and a quick release. I had an idea of sacrificing a front hub and welding that on top of a bracket that would stand on the ground, potentially a lot cheaper if not as elegant. It seemed like the weak links in the bracket idea were the fork connection, which the hub resolves, and hub weld onto the bracket, maybe the hub material isn't going to play nice? I am guessing a low end Bontrager wheel hub is going to be steel alloy rather than aluminium?
couldnt you just use the axle part of the hub?
something like this http://www.wiggle.com.au/shimano-rear-u ... 46mm-axle/ except the front axle (or just cut that one). Use 2 bolts to set fork position (e.g silimar to how the cup and cone bolts get done up). then use a quick release skewer to mount it on.
i have a set of the tacx forks. used them while i was injured, never again. tbh, i wouldn't bother - if it's just for you, once you've done 2 or 3 sessions on the rollers you'll be fine. riding no hands or 1 legged takes some practice, but staying upright under load is no harder than holding a wheel.
Something like this - only 20 bucks?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bicycle-Bike ... 1198252545
If you have roof bars or an existing rack on your car, or space in a ute bed, you only need one of these at the front and an ocky/velcro strap at the back to put the bike on the vehicle relatively safely and very cheaply.
for your safety on the rollers you'd want a very good metal QR, and on the car for the safety of the bike you'd have similar needs. Don't just use one with a plastic end. the old Shimano ones are good, and this one looks solid at least.
Note that the front axle will be 9mm and the rear 10mm diameter - you can't just cut down the rear as suggested above by eeksil.
And march83 has probably put you off the whole idea.....
2014 goal 52000m
wq, that's a really good looking solution, but I figure if I have a "spare" hub that will do the job as long as I can weld the flange or hub body onto the pipe. Angle grinder plus tensioned spokes can't end that badly
Having said that, I'm with march83. If your skills are that poor that you need one of these contraptions, you're really someone who should spend some time and learn to ride rollers properly.
I don't mean that in a rude way at all, rollers can be fantastic for improving balance and skills. I really think you should give it a proper go and try to master it without the fork mount.
One of the best parts of riding rollers, for me, is the way you need to pay more attention to stay upright compared to the mind numbing boredom of a wind trainer etc.
Should clarify, the entire reason for using a fork bracket is for z5 and z6 intervals when the safety aspect declines a bit. The aim isn't to avoid the handling and the rollers (I'm getting rid of a Kurt Kinetic to get the rollers).
I was pulling 30s intervals at 500-600watts seated last night. the bracket was not required. in fact if i had been using my bracket then 1) there would have been and uncomfortably high level of stress going through the forks, bracket, bolts and roller frame that i don't know if it would have handled it and 2) i probably wouldn't have had enough resistance to hit 500W+ for any significant time with only 1 wheel spinning.
that said, i don't think you could do standing sprints at 500W+ without a bracket, though with the bracket in place then maybe an old steel frame that you don't care about might be a better thing to do it on than a nice carbon roadie.
Standing sprints is for the road or the track, already decided to abandon trainer sprinting because so much of it is bike handling and I don't want to be restricted by a roller or a static trainer. Arguably it's not trainable anyway but very encouraging to hear you smashed out 500+ on the rollers, that's all I am after.
What one is your rollers again, march???
11 posts • Page 1 of 1
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