The Di battery has been failing after 100k’s
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The Di battery has been failing after 100k’s
Postby Stevesoutside » Wed Jan 21, 2015 2:46 pm
I have a Giant TCR Advanced. The Di battery has been failing after 100k’s. My local bike store told me to buy a new battery which I did. I had the battery charged at the bike shop and the battery failed after one ride! The shimano rep ran a diagnostic on the bike in the store and has come up with nothing. Has anyone had this experience?
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Re: The Di battery has been failing after 100k’s
Postby AlanAtom » Fri Jan 23, 2015 8:06 pm
I wonder if there is a short/ fault in your bike's wiring that's causing the battery to drain abnormally till it's empty. With the Di battery being a LiPo chemistry one, draining LiPo batteries to completely empty can cause them to fail to recharge. If the battery fails during your ride, try changing to your spare battery mid-ride. If the one battery sustains your whole ride, then remove the battery immediately after your ride and stick it on the charger.
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Re: The Di battery has been failing after 100k’s
Postby Duck! » Fri Jan 23, 2015 8:13 pm
Has it done it since new or is it a recent development?
If it's always been the case then it's possibly incorrectly set limits on the rear derailleur. If it was good & the battery drain is only recent, it's probably a component not going into "sleep" mode & continually drawing power. I've had a bike in with just this problem this week; the E-Tube diagnostics came up clear, but there is clearly still a problem. There's a staged process for testing components, but you need two batteries and about four days to do it!
If it's always been the case then it's possibly incorrectly set limits on the rear derailleur. If it was good & the battery drain is only recent, it's probably a component not going into "sleep" mode & continually drawing power. I've had a bike in with just this problem this week; the E-Tube diagnostics came up clear, but there is clearly still a problem. There's a staged process for testing components, but you need two batteries and about four days to do it!
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.
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Re: The Di battery has been failing after 100k’s
Postby bianchi928 » Tue Jan 27, 2015 1:40 pm
Hi Steve,
Yes, I had the same experience. Changed battery, diagnostics etc, same thing. Turned out to be the Di2 junction box. Changed that and all is sweet.
Cheers
Yes, I had the same experience. Changed battery, diagnostics etc, same thing. Turned out to be the Di2 junction box. Changed that and all is sweet.
Cheers
Stand on my dog I cut off your head
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Re: The Di battery has been failing after 100k’s
Postby Duck! » Tue Jan 27, 2015 2:03 pm
UPDATE: The one I have been working through appears to have a malfunction in the front derailleur causing continual power drain. I first tested with a different battery, which like the first drained overnight. Recharged, disconnected the cable from the upper junction (isolating that + shifters from the lower system) and again left overnight. Same deal, depleted battery charge with the top system reconnected, so clearly the problem is in the lower components. Again fitted a full battery, disconnected the front derailleur, but left all other parts hooked up. Next morning, battery still fully charged. That points to a dodgy front derailleur, which strangely showed up as normal on the E-tube diagnostics.Duck! wrote:Has it done it since new or is it a recent development?
If it's always been the case then it's possibly incorrectly set limits on the rear derailleur. If it was good & the battery drain is only recent, it's probably a component not going into "sleep" mode & continually drawing power. I've had a bike in with just this problem this week; the E-Tube diagnostics came up clear, but there is clearly still a problem. There's a staged process for testing components, but you need two batteries and about four days to do it!
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.
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Re: The Di battery has been failing after 100k’s
Postby im_no_pro » Tue Jan 27, 2015 3:21 pm
Im curious to hear about this, I have a mate with an intermittent issue with batteries losing charge, components have been isolated, battery replaces, system tested etc etc etc and each time it comes up with nada.Duck! wrote: There's a staged process for testing components, but you need two batteries and about four days to do it!
master6 wrote: Moderators are like Club Handicappers; I often think they are wrong, but I dont want the job.
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Re: The Di battery has been failing after 100k’s
Postby Duck! » Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:20 pm
Here's the check process I got from Shimano to find where a battery drain may be coming from.
1: Try a different fully-charged battery. Leave overnight & check battery level the next day.
If the indicator is still solid green, the original battery is a dud & needs replacing. If the charge indicator is anything other than solid green, go to.....
2: With battery recharged (recharge between each step), disconnect the cable from upper junction box & leave overnight. Check power level....
3a: If power indication is good, the problem is in the upper system (junction/shifters). Go to step 4a.
3b: If power is depleted, the problem is in the lower system (derailleurs & battery mount). Go to step 4b.
4a: Disconnect derailleur & one shifter cables, so only battery mount, junction & the other shifter are connected. Leave overnight, then check. If power is good, your disconnected shifter is bodgy.
4a (2): If power is down, plug the disconnected shifter in & unplug the other. Repeat step 4a. If power is good, the problem is in the second shifter. If power has dropped, the problem is in the junction box.
4b: Disconnect front derailleur & leave overnight. If power next day is good, the FD is dodgy.
4b (2): If power has dropped, plug FD back in & unplug RD. Repeat 4b. If power is good, RD is the problem. If power has still dropped, battery mount is the problem.
1: Try a different fully-charged battery. Leave overnight & check battery level the next day.
If the indicator is still solid green, the original battery is a dud & needs replacing. If the charge indicator is anything other than solid green, go to.....
2: With battery recharged (recharge between each step), disconnect the cable from upper junction box & leave overnight. Check power level....
3a: If power indication is good, the problem is in the upper system (junction/shifters). Go to step 4a.
3b: If power is depleted, the problem is in the lower system (derailleurs & battery mount). Go to step 4b.
4a: Disconnect derailleur & one shifter cables, so only battery mount, junction & the other shifter are connected. Leave overnight, then check. If power is good, your disconnected shifter is bodgy.
4a (2): If power is down, plug the disconnected shifter in & unplug the other. Repeat step 4a. If power is good, the problem is in the second shifter. If power has dropped, the problem is in the junction box.
4b: Disconnect front derailleur & leave overnight. If power next day is good, the FD is dodgy.
4b (2): If power has dropped, plug FD back in & unplug RD. Repeat 4b. If power is good, RD is the problem. If power has still dropped, battery mount is the problem.
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.
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