Australian Cycling Forums - Bicycles Network Australia

Posted: **Thu May 03, 2012 2:46 pm**

Nobody wrote:I've changed to Chain-L from Finish Line Wet. If anything, Chain-L is probably a little bit thicker. Interestingly it smells and looks like automotive 80/90 gear oil. This time I've got a new drive train so I'll see how far I get. Chain-L has had some good reviews.

I use Castrol 80-W90 gear oil on my daily rider s/s - the same oil I use in my car's gearbox, not bought specially. Chain goes black, but it survives water really well and is smooth riding.

Mobil 1 on my geared bikes. A litre for the cost of 100ml of one of those piddly specialist lubes. Thin enough to get into the chain, good shear additives, smooth as. Lovelyyyy.

Posted: **Thu May 03, 2012 6:04 pm**

Got all inspired by these other posts and decided to try Finishline 1 step.

Very impressed with it. I used the 'winter' coating as it is supposedly water proof (to some extent).

Posted: **Thu May 03, 2012 8:07 pm**

PawPaw wrote:DIrt on the outside bits, isn't good for the teeth of sprockets and chainrings, nor the movement of outer plates against inner plates.

And I don't agree that a dirty chain is really only dirty on the external bits, and more so on the outside. I know that's what Sheldon's site says though, it's a tad simplistic for my mind. Any water around, and that dirt is going to get washed in under the rollers, and in and around the 'half bushings' and the rivets underneath them, and between the inner and outer plates. In fact, half bushings such as on hyperglide chains, not only help lube get to where it is needed, but dirt to where it isn't.

When I apply WD-40, I apply the first spray liberally and a lot of dirt is diluted and runs downwards with gravity, where it can be wiped off. Mind you, I don't do this over carpet or even the concrete courtyard. Without taking the chain off, I'm happy that I am flushing out a significant amount of heavier dirt, and replacing it with the lighter paraffin lubricant within WD40.

the other problem with the dirty outside bits is getting black crap on your work pants on you commute.

I use the purple extreme stuff, and have been happy enough with it, though it's true that he first application lasts about 1-200km, then the next application lasts longer. Chain doesn't get gunky and I'm happy...

Posted: **Sun May 06, 2012 10:11 pm**

Wet lube. Motor X. I haven't used a wax or dry lube for 18months now. A couple of drops, stays on your chain even when wet. Just need to clean your chain once a week with a wipe. It makes everything nice and quite

Posted: **Sun May 27, 2012 6:45 pm**

Haven't seen anyone mention it yet.

I've been cleaning & lubricating my chains by immersing in Auto Transmission Fluid.. then wiping, then immersing and drip off. Then a final wipe.

Haven't needed to lubricate between cycles.. seems to last a few weeks (though I haven't been on wet roads much lately).

Posted: **Sun May 27, 2012 7:21 pm**

Ozkaban wrote: I use the purple extreme stuff, and have been happy enough with it, though it's true that he first application lasts about 1-200km, then the next application lasts longer. Chain doesn't get gunky and I'm happy...

Ive been using PE for about 2 months and its fantastic, but its true the chain does need to be very, very clean. The only way I can get it so clean is to remove the chain and submerge it in kero overnight.

Posted: **Mon May 28, 2012 10:19 am**

I have been using the Lanotec HD spray to clean and lube chain. The drivetrain is very quiet, often silent. The black still develops though, but a quick spray and wipe does the job. The cleaning and lube in one application does save some time. Downside for some might be that bike smells like a shearing shed for an hour or so.

Posted: **Wed May 30, 2012 12:04 am**

my new bike's chain is quite sticky, wonder what was used.

I have RnR Red. Why is gold better? I only ride roadies so no need for MTB lube

Posted: **Wed May 30, 2012 1:54 pm**

Can't comment on Gold, but RnR only lasts about 60km in the dry.
Thats a relube every day I ride.

Too much maintenance for me.

Posted: **Wed May 30, 2012 3:36 pm**

OT a bit, but talk about expensive oil...

I just bought some Swiss made oil for servicing a hi-beat mechanical watch (8 beats per second). 2ml was $28. Or to put it another way, $14,000 per litre...

Stuey

Posted: **Wed May 30, 2012 3:52 pm**

blatant wrote:my new bike's chain is quite sticky, wonder what was used.

I have RnR Red. Why is gold better? I only ride roadies so no need for MTB lube

chains come from the factory with an applied layer of protective grease. It's the best lubrication you can possibly have and I urge you to keep it going as long as possible before applying fresh lube. Eventually you'll have to, but then you need to clean the chain regularly to keep the black sludge at bay.

There is, as it happens, many raging internet arguments about the factory lube. Roughly, they are...

1. keep it, use it. Why would it be there if it wasn't any good?

2. Clean and wash every link of the chain and use another lubricant before riding your bike otherwise you will certainly die a horrible death because the designers, manufacturers and engineers of cycle components cannot be expected to know better than a nameless internet droob what works and what doesn't. This approach also guarantees you'll cleanse the insides and pivot points of the chain, the very place where lube is needed, but hey, what do I know?

Posted: **Wed May 30, 2012 9:53 pm**

I remember reading of a product years ago for motorbikes where you got a large flat tin of this grease which you held over heat until it melted, then you put your cleaned chain into it for a while. It was supposed to replace the factory grease right into the pins/o-rings. I'm not sure if it was any good, but just sayin'. Looked like a large Dubbin tin for those that know what Dubbin is.

Posted: **Wed May 30, 2012 10:17 pm**

Stuey wrote:I remember reading of a product years ago for motorbikes where you got a large flat tin of this grease which you held over heat until it melted, then you put your cleaned chain into it for a while. It was supposed to replace the factory grease right into the pins/o-rings. I'm not sure if it was any good, but just sayin'. Looked like a large Dubbin tin for those that know what Dubbin is.

I'd say it's probably the best way to re-lube a chain. However it seems like a lot of work with the added risk of burning yourself.

Posted: **Wed May 30, 2012 10:26 pm**

Also a pain in the butt on motorbikes as you had to remove the chain and pull it off the bike ( usually meaning pulling of gear levers and sprocket covers ) ... This was more common pre o-ring chain days... With modern chains you usually rivet them on.

Posted: **Wed May 30, 2012 10:54 pm**

rustychisel wrote:There is, as it happens, many raging internet arguments about the factory lube. Roughly, they are...

1. keep it, use it. Why would it be there if it wasn't any good?

2. Clean and wash every link of the chain and use another lubricant before riding your bike

The second option is the one taken up by the ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System.

Posted: **Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:29 am**

}SkOrPn--7 wrote:I use Squirt the pros are a completely clean drivetrain along with no noise plus after starting out with a new chain the stretch hasn't even got to the point of allowing the chain stretch gauge to register. Having said that I am a smooth shifter so chain stretch is a hard one to gauge because I believe that to be more my doing than the lube doing it's job. It doesn't allow grit into the rollers creating a grinding paste so chain wear is minimal plus the lube sheds the old lube along with any gremlins hence why you have such a clean drivetrain. In water you need to apply the lube after every ride so that is a draw back but only a small price to pay.

This feed back is for MTB only but the product can be used on a roadie but the results may well be different due to the speeds you guys travel at and distance in one ride.

Interested to know if you are still using Squirt? If yes, how has it performed. If not, was there a particular reason you stopped?

Thanks
Andrew

Posted: **Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:31 am**

eeksll wrote:Squirt Lube - seems to last the longest, does not seem to work too well in the wet, it is dry, requires an initial degrease which a mate did , I use this on the commuter

Any further updates on your experience with Squirt? Considering using it a new chain on a tour so no chance to do an initial degrease but.

Thanks
Andrew

Posted: **Sat Jun 16, 2012 5:59 pm**

Aushiker wrote: Interested to know if you are still using Squirt? If yes, how has it performed. If not, was there a particular reason you stopped?

Squirt is the goo-du-jour for most of the stable. Most spend their time on the roads or strada bianca. So no serious off road use. Much cleaner than oil/grease based stuff, easier to get off and clean up than the "plastic" stuff.

As reported, it needs re-application more often in the wet.

It seems to pick up some black dust - I presume old brake pad dust - but this works it's way out like everything else

It (or some similar wax-in-fluid) will remain #1 in the shed

Posted: **Wed Jun 27, 2012 11:07 am**

cyclotaur wrote:I use WD-40 for a bit of cleaning as it loosens the grit and grime, but I lube with BOESHIELD T-9 which was recommended to me by a cycling mate and the LBS where I bought my bike.

This stuff is good. I used to work for Ansett and used this on my
mtb for years...parrafin and solvent. spray the night before for best results.

the old way of lubing is still the best though...old saucepan,bunsen burner and grease. insert cleaned chain. heat it up 'till grease melts, remove hot chain with tongs and drip dry.

Posted: **Wed Jun 27, 2012 10:14 pm**

Stuey wrote:I remember reading of a product years ago for motorbikes where you got a large flat tin of this grease which you held over heat until it melted, then you put your cleaned chain into it for a while. It was supposed to replace the factory grease right into the pins/o-rings. I'm not sure if it was any good, but just sayin'. Looked like a large Dubbin tin for those that know what Dubbin is.

When I used to race Enduro's (motorbike) before o-ring chains, I had a metal biscuit tin loaded with a grease cocktail of various different types of grease (pretty hard types of grease, not light stuff).

I used to sit it on a metho burner and boil the grease with the chain in the tin, then hang it up above the tin and let it drip off (back into the tin).

You'd see the grease comming out of the links for weeks later. Probably way too messy on a push bike though.

Posted: **Wed Jun 27, 2012 10:18 pm**

blatant wrote:my new bike's chain is quite sticky, wonder what was used.

I have RnR Red. Why is gold better? I only ride roadies so no need for MTB lube

I've used Gold and Red and I feel the Red stuff is better in that the chain stays a lot cleaner. I've started using it on my moto-trials bike as well as it means I can keep it super clean.

Posted: **Mon Jul 02, 2012 1:29 pm**

jacks1071 wrote:
blatant wrote:my new bike's chain is quite sticky, wonder what was used.

I have RnR Red. Why is gold better? I only ride roadies so no need for MTB lube
I've used Gold and Red and I feel the Red stuff is better in that the chain stays a lot cleaner. I've started using it on my moto-trials bike as well as it means I can keep it super clean.

I've used about half a container in a very short time of the RnR red. As soon as the chain gets wet, it's not happy. Surface rust appears very quickly.

Posted: **Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:16 pm**

jasonc wrote: I've used about half a container in a very short time of the RnR red. As soon as the chain gets wet, it's not happy. Surface rust appears very quickly.

It's not a wet weather lube, but even in the dry it only lasts 50-60km for me before the chain starts to sound unlubed. Won't be going back to it.

Posted: **Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:32 pm**

Rex wrote:
jasonc wrote: I've used about half a container in a very short time of the RnR red. As soon as the chain gets wet, it's not happy. Surface rust appears very quickly.
It's not a wet weather lube, but even in the dry it only lasts 50-60km for me before the chain starts to sound unlubed. Won't be going back to it.

so what are you going to/using?

Posted: **Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:36 pm**

I have now changed to Rock n roll gold (from red) because it is so cold here the red goes solid in the bottle unless i keep it on the water heater and then it changes texture.

Graham

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