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- Posts: 3198
- Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2008 8:49 pm
- Posts: 5258
- Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:09 am
Nate wrote:Well i've been on the TRP Spyre's for a while now... SOOOO insanely happy.
Dont both with Hy/Rd - the Spyre's are cheaper! and dont require all sorts of bodge/additional expense to get them working
I originally wanted the Spyre's but they were not available at the time, and the HY/RD's were on special. If I had known about the issues before I bought them, I would have just waited for the Spyre's to come back into stock. My own fault for not researching enough!
Anyway, now that I have fitted the short pull arms, they are working like they should. So unless they have some other fault that shows up, everything seems to be in order.
I am only on my first set pads, so waiting to see how the self adjusting pads work out. If everything goes pear shaped, I can always swap over to the Spyres later. The short arm conversion was $USD40, so it's not a huge loss if things don't work out.
- Posts: 473
- Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:58 am
- Location: just off the Yarra Trail but not lurking in the bushes
Nate wrote:............turns out the piston was sticking & the automatic pad adjustment for wear wasnt working - not sure why, maybe a bubble in the wrong place.
bled them twice & got all the spongyness out of them, now they're also not requiring any shims too - feel great & lots of bite at the top of the range.
Either way - SUCH a pain to have to do this, it would've been a 5min job (if that) to adjust mechanical spyre's.
so i'm putting an order in for some spyre's for the front & i'll do a comparison
Quite like my HyRd's available at a time when full road Hydro' was very limited availability - was a bit put off by dual nature - seemed illogical but does work and no faffy cable pull issues using 105 and Ultrega.....anyway just looked at front to check wear and notice a piston is stuck - had a stuck one on rear last time changed pads so maybe its common - bike is well used so a bit of a surprise...as to pad wear not really been a problem for me - I run cx/interupters and just use the adjusteron these to tighten the cable - only time been near to bleeding is left bike upside down on back seat of a car overnight and turned upright had a horrible whistling noise - TRP confirmed they will vent if left upside down......replaced some BB7's which had to adjust that impossible to turn dial weekly think still got scars on knuckles Given an option now would go full hydro as it has crept down but if on a budget with a good set of cable levers already in hand I'd buy another set
- Posts: 2768
- Joined: Tue Apr 21, 2009 2:00 pm
- Location: Perth
queequeg wrote:I know this is an old thread, but I just swapped my commuter bike from Avid BB7 over to the TRP hy/rd brakes, using SRAM Rival Levers.
I immediately had the same issues as everyone else with the lever pull, and through further research found that the HY/RD is specifically designed around the cable pull of SLR-EV Shimano Levers, which pull a lot more cable.
If you have older Shimano levers (before DA7900/Ultegra 6700, you’ll have issues, but they are really only designed for 11-sp systems, and Tiagra 4700 (which is SLR-EV).
Anyway, I have just fitted a pair of aftermarket short pull actuator arms, and I now have magnificent braking with the levers coming about half way to the bars under full braking.
Much better than the hacksaw fix I have seen suggested, or the shims behind the pads.
So, if you have SRAM or older shimano levers, or Campag, the replacement arms are perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/Short-Pull-Conve ... B073CCKD85
I ordered direct from the guy who sells them on Amazon (above). Apparently they sell out rather quickly every time he makes more of them.
Timely response! just pulled the trigger on some HYRDs so ill be sure to also grab the short pull arms!
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