troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

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Nate
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby Nate » Wed May 02, 2018 1:45 pm

Well i've been on the TRP Spyre's for a while now... SOOOO insanely happy.

Dont both with Hy/Rd - the Spyre's are cheaper! and dont require all sorts of bodge/additional expense to get them working

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queequeg
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby queequeg » Wed May 02, 2018 2:07 pm

Nate wrote:Well i've been on the TRP Spyre's for a while now... SOOOO insanely happy.

Dont both with Hy/Rd - the Spyre's are cheaper! and dont require all sorts of bodge/additional expense to get them working


I originally wanted the Spyre's but they were not available at the time, and the HY/RD's were on special. If I had known about the issues before I bought them, I would have just waited for the Spyre's to come back into stock. My own fault for not researching enough!

Anyway, now that I have fitted the short pull arms, they are working like they should. So unless they have some other fault that shows up, everything seems to be in order.

I am only on my first set pads, so waiting to see how the self adjusting pads work out. If everything goes pear shaped, I can always swap over to the Spyres later. The short arm conversion was $USD40, so it's not a huge loss if things don't work out.
'11 Lynskey Cooper CX, '00 Hillbrick Steel Racing (Total Rebuild '10), '15 Cervelo S5

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antigee
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby antigee » Mon May 07, 2018 7:52 pm

Nate wrote:............turns out the piston was sticking & the automatic pad adjustment for wear wasnt working - not sure why, maybe a bubble in the wrong place.

bled them twice & got all the spongyness out of them, now they're also not requiring any shims too - feel great & lots of bite at the top of the range.

Either way - SUCH a pain to have to do this, it would've been a 5min job (if that) to adjust mechanical spyre's.
so i'm putting an order in for some spyre's for the front & i'll do a comparison


Quite like my HyRd's available at a time when full road Hydro' was very limited availability - was a bit put off by dual nature - seemed illogical but does work and no faffy cable pull issues using 105 and Ultrega.....anyway just looked at front to check wear and notice a piston is stuck :-( - had a stuck one on rear last time changed pads so maybe its common - bike is well used so a bit of a surprise...as to pad wear not really been a problem for me - I run cx/interupters and just use the adjusteron these to tighten the cable - only time been near to bleeding is left bike upside down on back seat of a car overnight and turned upright had a horrible whistling noise - TRP confirmed they will vent if left upside down......replaced some BB7's which had to adjust that impossible to turn dial weekly think still got scars on knuckles Given an option now would go full hydro as it has crept down but if on a budget with a good set of cable levers already in hand I'd buy another set

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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby jaseyjase » Wed May 16, 2018 11:09 am

queequeg wrote:I know this is an old thread, but I just swapped my commuter bike from Avid BB7 over to the TRP hy/rd brakes, using SRAM Rival Levers.

I immediately had the same issues as everyone else with the lever pull, and through further research found that the HY/RD is specifically designed around the cable pull of SLR-EV Shimano Levers, which pull a lot more cable.

If you have older Shimano levers (before DA7900/Ultegra 6700, you’ll have issues, but they are really only designed for 11-sp systems, and Tiagra 4700 (which is SLR-EV).

Anyway, I have just fitted a pair of aftermarket short pull actuator arms, and I now have magnificent braking with the levers coming about half way to the bars under full braking.

Much better than the hacksaw fix I have seen suggested, or the shims behind the pads.

So, if you have SRAM or older shimano levers, or Campag, the replacement arms are perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/Short-Pull-Conve ... B073CCKD85

I ordered direct from the guy who sells them on Amazon (above). Apparently they sell out rather quickly every time he makes more of them.


Timely response! just pulled the trigger on some HYRDs so ill be sure to also grab the short pull arms!

cheers!

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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby jaseyjase » Fri Jul 20, 2018 4:27 pm

After a couple of months of commuting, both wet and dry, im a big fan!

I didnt buy the short arm conversion though (yet?)

Majority of my riding, and therefore braking is from the hoods, and i find i dont mind the travel at all.

If i pull from the drops, with the added flex of the lever i could see how that would be unsettling, but seeing as i brake from the hoods it dosnt both me at all.

Have had a few unsuspected lockups with what i thought wasnt much pressure from my fingers!

Happy days.

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queequeg
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby queequeg » Fri Jul 20, 2018 8:04 pm

jaseyjase wrote:After a couple of months of commuting, both wet and dry, im a big fan!

I didnt buy the short arm conversion though (yet?)

Majority of my riding, and therefore braking is from the hoods, and i find i dont mind the travel at all.

If i pull from the drops, with the added flex of the lever i could see how that would be unsettling, but seeing as i brake from the hoods it dosnt both me at all.

Have had a few unsuspected lockups with what i thought wasnt much pressure from my fingers!

Happy days.


Mine are going great. Ironically my first commute to work after being off injured was in the pouring rain. Happy to report that the TRP HY/RD provide excellent braking without any squealing like the Avid brakes & Rotors.

I have not had to adjust the pads at all as yet, and lever feel has stayed the same. So far so good.
'11 Lynskey Cooper CX, '00 Hillbrick Steel Racing (Total Rebuild '10), '15 Cervelo S5

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familyguy
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby familyguy » Mon Jul 30, 2018 1:26 pm

This close to pulling the trigger on some HY/RD calipers to replace my Spyre's (sacrilege, I know, based on this discussion!) The front Spyre pad adjuster bolt is frozen in, and the 3mm hex is now rounded out. I guess that's what you get for not undoing them every three months...pretty naff. I will shelve them (literally, not metaphorically) and keep an eye out for replacement adjusters to rebuild them at some stage. I need a little more clearance between spokes and caliper body too, the arm on the Spyre brushes the new front wheel under load and can't be moved across any further.

I'm convinced enough. Also I can't afford a full hydro replacement for this bike.

Jim

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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby owly » Wed Aug 01, 2018 9:33 am

familyguy wrote:This close to pulling the trigger on some HY/RD calipers to replace my Spyre's (sacrilege, I know, based on this discussion!) The front Spyre pad adjuster bolt is frozen in, and the 3mm hex is now rounded out. I guess that's what you get for not undoing them every three months...pretty naff. I will shelve them (literally, not metaphorically) and keep an eye out for replacement adjusters to rebuild them at some stage. I need a little more clearance between spokes and caliper body too, the arm on the Spyre brushes the new front wheel under load and can't be moved across any further.

I'm convinced enough. Also I can't afford a full hydro replacement for this bike.

Jim


Juin Tech R1.
MUFC :twisted:

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familyguy
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby familyguy » Wed Aug 01, 2018 9:42 am

Do you use them? I have seen them but they look like they have a very tiny oil reservoir? They also look wider than the HY/RD which may not solve my spoke issue. Will do some reading.

Jim

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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby owly » Wed Aug 01, 2018 9:22 pm

familyguy wrote:Do you use them? I have seen them but they look like they have a very tiny oil reservoir? They also look wider than the HY/RD which may not solve my spoke issue. Will do some reading.

Jim


Had them for about a year or so. I've got about an 8mm clearance between the caliper body and spoke.
Best with a compressionless housing.
MUFC :twisted:

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familyguy
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby familyguy » Mon Oct 01, 2018 4:30 pm

Seems like my HyRd are not auto-adjusting. I bled them, still spongy. Even with no pads in and not on a bike, squeezing the cable arm sees the piston move about 0.5mm and retract fully. None of the vaunted self-adjustment is apparent. Do I need to pull them apart to check for piston issues?

Jim

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queequeg
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby queequeg » Tue Oct 02, 2018 10:02 am

familyguy wrote:Seems like my HyRd are not auto-adjusting. I bled them, still spongy. Even with no pads in and not on a bike, squeezing the cable arm sees the piston move about 0.5mm and retract fully. None of the vaunted self-adjustment is apparent. Do I need to pull them apart to check for piston issues?

Jim


That certainly doesn't sound right. I doubt I could even visually see 0.5mm of movement (unless you meant 0.5cm). I accidentally squeezed my levers with the wheel out, and ended up having to spread the pads open again because the pistons were pushed all the way out. If you squeezed the levers and the pads retracted all the way, something is certainly wrong. Did you overfill the reservoir when you bled them?
'11 Lynskey Cooper CX, '00 Hillbrick Steel Racing (Total Rebuild '10), '15 Cervelo S5

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familyguy
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby familyguy » Tue Oct 02, 2018 10:48 am

0.5mm each side, measured with verniers.

I bled them as per TRP instructions, and got a LOT of air out of them. Still, the pistons retract to where they were, def not staying 'out'. I think these have other issues I need to diagnose.

Jim

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queequeg
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby queequeg » Tue Oct 02, 2018 2:30 pm

familyguy wrote:0.5mm each side, measured with verniers.

I bled them as per TRP instructions, and got a LOT of air out of them. Still, the pistons retract to where they were, def not staying 'out'. I think these have other issues I need to diagnose.

Jim


With the HY/RD brakes, the arm must have full unrestricted movement in both directions. If you have adjusted the cable pull so that the arm does full fully retract, your brakes won't work. If you can't screw the locking nut into the arm when the levers are released, your cable adjustment is incorrect. Thee's pretty much zero adjustment you can do with these calipers, beyond taking out the slack in the cable after you attach it to the actuator arm. That's why I had to get the short-pull conversion kit, as my levers were not compatible with the calipers.
'11 Lynskey Cooper CX, '00 Hillbrick Steel Racing (Total Rebuild '10), '15 Cervelo S5

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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby familyguy » Tue Oct 02, 2018 3:07 pm

I should point out they're not even on a bike. I push the cable arm by hand, pistons retract back to original position. The locking nut screws in without moving the arm at all, so that's all good.

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queequeg
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby queequeg » Tue Oct 02, 2018 7:43 pm

familyguy wrote:I should point out they're not even on a bike. I push the cable arm by hand, pistons retract back to original position. The locking nut screws in without moving the arm at all, so that's all good.


Totally bizarre. Certainly not how mine are working.
'11 Lynskey Cooper CX, '00 Hillbrick Steel Racing (Total Rebuild '10), '15 Cervelo S5

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familyguy
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby familyguy » Fri Oct 19, 2018 2:20 pm

So...a bit of mucking about with some lanox, some mineral oil around the pistons heads, a bit of pushing o the piston faces, lots of pushing the lever arm by hand, and we have one set of pistons unstuck and adjusting! Huzzah! Once I get the other one going I will chuck them back on the bike and should be good to go.

Jim

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familyguy
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby familyguy » Thu Oct 25, 2018 12:18 pm

3 out of 4 unstuck.

What spray would you use to cajole a really reluctant piston out? I used Lanox and WD40 around the edges, but the last one seems to have one minor binding point that I can't solve. The old 'push in with some sort of device' is not working either. If I press the lever I can see the very top of the piston edge wanting to come out, but only for half the circumference.

Jim

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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby jackthelad » Fri Oct 26, 2018 2:26 am

silicone grease
Dot fluid /grease
Mineral oil,
depending on system
SantaCruz HighTower LT
SantaCruz Blur XC Carbon
Kona Kula Supreme(Retired/Spare)
Surly Karate Monkey
Ribble Rd Bike

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familyguy
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby familyguy » Fri Oct 26, 2018 8:52 am

I'll soak the mineral oil from the top with a cotton bud, see if that shifts it overnight or something. Pesky thing...

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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby MichaelB » Fri Oct 26, 2018 3:59 pm

Methinks you are persisting faaaaaaar too long.

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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby Duck! » Fri Oct 26, 2018 7:11 pm

familyguy wrote:3 out of 4 unstuck.

What spray would you use to cajole a really reluctant piston out? I used Lanox and WD40 around the edges, but the last one seems to have one minor binding point that I can't solve. The old 'push in with some sort of device' is not working either. If I press the lever I can see the very top of the piston edge wanting to come out, but only for half the circumference.

Jim

Use only the operating fluid appropriate for the brake system (eg for TRP that's mineral oil) or a specified compatible lubricant to lube the pistons. Anything else risks damaging the seals, potentially leading to total brake failure.

TRP/Tektro use the same pad shape as many Shimano brakes, therefore you should be able to use a modified Shimano bleed block as part of your tool arsenal. In its normal state, the bleed block fits neatly between the pistons with the pads removed and is used to set proper clearance when bleeding.

Image

The tabs on each end fit in the rotor slot. What you can do is cut one side of the block off flush with the alignment tabs, so that when fitted to the caliper there will be a space on one side. Fit the block with the space on the side of the sticky piston and give the lever a few gentle squeezes to extend the piston. Be careful not to push it right out! Lubricate the piston with mineral oil, take the block out and gently push the piston back in with a 10mm ring spanner, tyre lever or similar, being carefull to keep it square. With the block out give the lever a squeeze & see if the pistons move evenly. Repeat as necessary until both are moving freely and evenly.
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.

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familyguy
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby familyguy » Fri Oct 26, 2018 11:25 pm

Ten minutes a day aint that long 8) More of a lets see if I can than a must do. I have a clamping system for the opposite (working) piston, so all the force is acting on the stuck side.

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familyguy
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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby familyguy » Sat Oct 27, 2018 9:08 pm

Persistence pays off. Mounted a short,
cable and a flat bar brake lever, five minutes of work and its done. Shoulda done that sooner but I didnt have a spare brake lever till I found one today. Probably saved me a hundred bucks, too. Now, to get them on for Gong Ride next sunday morning...

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Re: troubles with a TRP Hy/Rd disc caliper

Postby familyguy » Sat Nov 17, 2018 2:50 pm

Went back to the Spyre's for Gong Ride, as the (these ones, anyway) HyRd just don't work. Pistons moving, check. Bleed, check. Pads clean (four new Shimano B01S, bedded in on the Spyres then swapped over, so not contaminated), check. Rotors cleaned with brake cleaner, check. Stopping, forget it. They wouldn't even put out enough pressure to stop a wheel spun by hand on the stand. No way was I even trying them on the road.

Back to the Spyre, changed pads back across, cleaned rotors yet again. Gong Ride all fine. Today, massive brake howl at any speed. Say What? Coming from silence before the pads were changed, what's going on? New pads (again) needed? New rotors? There's no toe in to adjust, so what else needs attention? Is it 4 pads and 2 rotors each time the brakes need to be replaced?

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