Dismantling Hydraulic Disc System

[NewStew]

I was recently collected in a very hard way by a car and amazingly came out with only bruises, scrapes and some very sore shoulders (and a little deep vein thrombosis in the leg but still way better than it could have been). Either way the bike was written off by the drivers insurer due to not being able to be sure of no structural damage and I am now the proud owner of an exact replacement. However, I still have the old bike which has lots of basically new 105 running gear on it (only did 1,000 km before biting the big one) and I plan to pull all of it off and either hang onto the parts or sell them.

The question I have of the assembled wisdom is are their any tricks to dismantling the hydraulics on the brakes. For example which part of the hose do I take off first and then second to drain the fluid out? Are their any tips to make sure I get the fluid all out and not all over the garage? Can the hoses be re-used or do the ends get damaged when disassembled? Any hints or links would be well welcomed (I can find the Shimano documentation for installing said equipment but they dont really go into removal).

At the end of this I should have a whole spare bike worth of parts other than the fork, frame and front wheel which should keep my commuter running for well beyond its normal service life (or make me some money).

[Duck!]

To start with you will need a decent-sized plastic syringe, which you can get for a handful of dollars at your local chemist, and a short length of ~3mm internal diameter PVC hose, which you can get from Bunnings, also for only a few dollars for a 5-metre roll, and a 7mm spanner.

Fit the syringe - plunger all the way in - with attached piece of hose to the bleed nipple on the caliper, remove the bleed port cap from the top of the master cylinder (you'll need to flip the rubber hood back to expose it, open the bleed nipple and pull back on the syringe to draw the oil out of the brake line. Demount the caliper from the frame and tilt it so the bleed nipple is at the lowest point to ensure all the oil is drawn out. Close the bleed nipple and replace the top cap.

There is a connector fitting just below where the hose comes out from under the handlebar, which looks a bit like an in-line barrel adjuster; undo the connector fitting & separate the upper and lower hoses. If you're not shortening the hose when you fit it to a new frame the ends will be fine to reuse.

[NewStew]

Thanks Duck - that is exactly the sort of help I needed.... and I am sure the syringes etc will come in handy one day when I need to teach myself how to change the fluid in my other bikes (given I have three bikes with hydraulic discs and only the retro pub bike has caliper brakes these days).

Do I need any special tools to remove the bottom bracket for later re-use (it is a threaded version not press-fit)?

[eeksll]

https://www.pushys.com.au/park-tool-bbt ... -tool.html is the correct tool or a another variant.

[Duck!]

Assuming modern two-piece design crank, and Shimano, you'll need TL-FC16 or similar for the tension cap on the left side, and TL-FC32 or similar for the bottom bracket cups. If it's a new "low profile" version, i.e. BB9000, RS600 or RS500, you'll need an adaptor ring to fit the BB cups & spanner, because the new housings are smaller outside diameter. Catch is, as far as I'm aware the adaptor rings are only supplied with new bottom brackets, not available separately, so you might need to see if your LBS has a spare kicking around.