Shimano 11-28 vs 11-32

[Kronos]

I'm thinking about the cassette I want to run since I'm throwing money at my road/race bike to upgrade to DI2. I'm planning on doing a Gran Fondo or two this year and then there are some hills and also flats I ride every other day.This determines I at least need a wide(ish) cassette. I have a 6770 short cage derailleur which means the widest I can go is 11-32. I don't want the extra hassles of running a long cage.

My first question is really asking whether the 11-32 but is nescessary? to put things into complete perspective, I'm running a Shimano 53-B crankset thats paired with a 39 on the front (for the most common Shimano 6700 crankset of 53-39).

My first issue I'm thinking about is the gaps in the 11-32 tooth cassette will be pretty wide between gears on a 10 speed which leaves me to believe I should go for the 11-28. Then there's the fact the cassette just kinda looks funny which leads to the next the question of whether I really need the 32 at all in the first place? I'm pretty sure that answer is no as it will spin out on the easy gear to be something under 10km/hr from the maths off the top of my head.

The only thing I'm concerned about "because I can fit it" is when I'm grinding on hills above 9-10% that go for about 5km or so near where I live where that gradient is constant and unrelenting. This leads me back to considering the 11-32 might be a bit more of a consideration. However, considering I want this to be the last time I touch this bike I don't want to get into being that guy with a collection of unnecessary cassettes so I'd prefer to get it right this time and not be that collector of weird cassettes.

[P!N20]

Go the 32, you've got plenty of sprockets, I don't think the gaps will worry you too much. If you never use it, it doesn't matter, and if you do use it, you'll be glad you have it.

[Kronos]

There are days on my SRAM bike which has an 11-28 I get to my easiest gear and then you click it again as you do with double tap and then you're like I don't have another gear anymore. I haven't quite caught on to the trend of wide range cassettes just yet.

Some days I wish I had an 11-32 even if its for the simple fact of getting your legs moving again on a hill so you can start spinning again rather than grinding and flicking up one gear again. One of my favorite habits sometimes is simply dropping back a gear, getting my cadence back up to a reasonable level then pushing on again. When I reach the end of my 11-28 this isn't really possible anymore then its the hard slog of pushing through until you've got enough speed in the cog to start spinning again.

[kb]

There aren’t any extra hassles running a ling cage

[kb]

There aren’t any extra hassles running a ling cage

Long. Bloody phones.

[lewie15]

I agree with kb. There are no hassles with a long cage. Chuck it on and it will work just fine. I've got two bikes - one with an 11-28 and one with an 11-32. If I had to choose, which I prefer I would definitely go with the 11-32.

[queequeg]

It will really depend on what sort of Gran Fondo's you are planning to do. I survived for years on a 53/39 with an 1-28. There were very few climbs I couldn't do as there was nothing long enough or steep enough to give me any problems/ Sure, I'd grind a bit, but I'd get up the hill
Enter the long climbs - 8km (AT) 8%, 10km, 20...30km....Back of Falls Creek...you'll be begging for a compact chainset and an 11-32.
So, in your situation, throwing on a 11-3 cassette is a pretty easy (and cheap) solution. The Tiagra 10sp cassettes are $28. So, you just keep it in a drawer until you go on of those rides, swap the cassette over and you are done. If you have sized your chain using the small/small method, and your RD can officially handle a 32T large sprocket, you won't even need to change the chain.

[cyclotaur]

I you think you might need a 32 occasionally.....then you probably do.

FWIW I've gone from 11-27>12-30>11-32 on the same original 'short' 105 RD on my 2011 CX bike and it works fine. It may be that the CX dropout leaves a little more room than on a road bike, but it works OK.

[Jmuzz]

Just get a cheap series 11-32 and play with it before upgrading.

Either way is a compromise, 32 is for longish hills only so work out how many of those you will be doing.

Ideally you want to be able to do both.
A cheap cassette is hardly a collection and even if the chain length is incompatible between them it is no real cost to keep a half worn chain on the shelf.
Make sure deraileur does both, that's a part you don't want two of due to most expensive Di2 part.

Walking up a hill is a much bigger inconvenience than being 10rpm off your ideal cadence.

[Kronos]

Just get a cheap series 11-32 and play with it before upgrading.

Either way is a compromise, 32 is for longish hills only so work out how many of those you will be doing.

Ideally you want to be able to do both.
A cheap cassette is hardly a collection and even if the chain length is incompatible between them it is no real cost to keep a half worn chain on the shelf.
Make sure deraileur does both, that's a part you don't want two of due to most expensive Di2 part.

Walking up a hill is a much bigger inconvenience than being 10rpm off your ideal cadence.

It's all pretty much a compromise though unless you want to be a pro rider and change your cassette for each ride I think anyway. I have found the 11-28 is a pretty good compromise as it gets you most places unless the gradient is north of 15% I guess changing a cassette isn't that big of a deal, but for the average ride most days you just want to ride one bike rather than swapping cassettes to suit the roads your riding.

That said you're right I may just get an 11-32 just to experiment with it. I can always swap back. You can run an 11-32 successfully on a standard DI2 derailleur but that's about as wide as you can go before you break something. An 11-28 is much safer.

[eeksll]

if you want 1 setup that does it all, surely a compact is the better solution.

[Mububban]

I'm thinking about the cassette I want to run since I'm throwing money at my road/race bike to upgrade to DI2. I'm planning on doing a Gran Fondo or two this year and then there are some hills and also flats I ride every other day.This determines I at least need a wide(ish) cassette. I have a 6770 short cage derailleur which means the widest I can go is 11-32. I don't want the extra hassles of running a long cage.

My first question is really asking whether the 11-32 but is nescessary? to put things into complete perspective, I'm running a Shimano 53-B crankset thats paired with a 39 on the front (for the most common Shimano 6700 crankset of 53-39).

My first issue I'm thinking about is the gaps in the 11-32 tooth cassette will be pretty wide between gears on a 10 speed which leaves me to believe I should go for the 11-28. Then there's the fact the cassette just kinda looks funny which leads to the next the question of whether I really need the 32 at all in the first place? I'm pretty sure that answer is no as it will spin out on the easy gear to be something under 10km/hr from the maths off the top of my head.

53-39 and 11-32 has the same "granny gear" as 50-34 with 11-28 according to http://www.gear-calculator.com/



I love my compact and 32 cassette. When I need it, I'm glad it's there, like when I nearly cracked with 20km still to go in a recent hill ride event. Being able to spin my way out of the last big climb meant I didn't have to walk as I saw some stronger looking riders doing with narrow range cassettes and/or bigger cranks.
And for my conservative low powered riding style, I've never found myself wishing I could go faster than 60-70kmh downhill so I have no need for a 53-39, or even a 52-36.

[Kronos]

The 53-39 is a little bit of overkill, I've been north of 60km/hr on a bike but then you realise, you're doing this on a public road, with cars and do you really want to put yourself in the position where any accident, or a stick on the road may kill you? Compact cranks look nice, I may go down that pathway eventually.

When I ride my SRAM bike and I get stuck in a situation where I'm grinding I do find myself clicking down in hope and then you're like Nothing more available, then you push yourself into the hurt zone unnecessarily or you become like that other guy who failed. This is where my thinking headed towards an 11-32 because do you really want to hurt yourself day in and day out when you're just supposed to be training?

[Derny Driver]

Orestes - mate how old are you just as a matter of interest?
Im 60. I retired from bike racing in 2002 when I copped a nasty pudendal nerve injury. After 2 years of tests and an operation it is heaps better but not 100%. I cannot really do any serious exercise any more or I get pain. Gentle stuff is okay. So I have not ridden a bike for 16 years, apart from a roll along the bike path on a Sunday with my gf. Prob 5km at best and average speed, slightly better than walking pace. 16 years of doing no exercise and I am as unfit as you could ever imagine.
Yesterday I decided to take my 1998 Fausto Coppi for a ride as I had put new wheels on it. Mavic Cosmics. Beautiful. I rode to the local beach and did a couple of laps up and down and came home. Total km....about 10.
I live on the top of a steep hill. I dunno what percent it is, but its bloody steep. One of the steepest in my area. Im running 8 speed campag chorus with a triple crank. I got up that hill on the 30-21. The legs were hurting and I was puffing like hell but the gear was okay.
I just had a look at a gear chart. 30-21 equals 36-25 or a 39-27. No disrespect to you, or anyone else who wants a 32 cog ...but really? Im 60 and have ZERO fitness, and I wouldnt use one.
Are you sure you need it? And compact cranks as well? You must be younger and fitter than me, surely.

[Kronos]

Orestes - mate how old are you just as a matter of interest?
Im 60. I retired from bike racing in 2002 when I copped a nasty pudendal nerve injury. After 2 years of tests and an operation it is heaps better but not 100%. I cannot really do any serious exercise any more or I get pain. Gentle stuff is okay. So I have not ridden a bike for 16 years, apart from a roll along the bike path on a Sunday with my gf. Prob 5km at best and average speed, slightly better than walking pace. 16 years of doing no exercise and I am as unfit as you could ever imagine.
Yesterday I decided to take my 1998 Fausto Coppi for a ride as I had put new wheels on it. Mavic Cosmics. Beautiful. I rode to the local beach and did a couple of laps up and down and came home. Total km....about 10.
I live on the top of a steep hill. I dunno what percent it is, but its bloody steep. One of the steepest in my area. Im running 8 speed campag chorus with a triple crank. I got up that hill on the 30-21. The legs were hurting and I was puffing like hell but the gear was okay.
I just had a look at a gear chart. 30-21 equals 36-25 or a 39-27. No disrespect to you, or anyone else who wants a 32 cog ...but really? Im 60 and have ZERO fitness, and I wouldnt use one.
Are you sure you need it? And compact cranks as well? You must be younger and fitter than me, surely.

I'm 34 years old which should suggest at this point I'm somewhere near the opportunity to being as fit as I will ever be in my lifetime for cycling. It's not really a thing that I can't push on, just some days you don't want to unnecessarily push yourself. I've never really gotten on to the wide cassette thing, but now that they're commonly available I thought I might be somewhat interested. But then I think by the time I get a 32, I may as well give up and get a mountain bike instead.

[Derny Driver]

... mate how old are you just as a matter of interest?...

I'm 34 years old which should suggest at this point I'm somewhere near the opportunity to being as fit as I will ever be in my lifetime for cycling...

Absolutely ! Prime of life

[eeksll]

Orestes - mate how old are you just as a matter of interest?
Im 60. I retired from bike racing in 2002 when I copped a nasty pudendal nerve injury. After 2 years of tests and an operation it is heaps better but not 100%. I cannot really do any serious exercise any more or I get pain. Gentle stuff is okay. So I have not ridden a bike for 16 years, apart from a roll along the bike path on a Sunday with my gf. Prob 5km at best and average speed, slightly better than walking pace. 16 years of doing no exercise and I am as unfit as you could ever imagine.
Yesterday I decided to take my 1998 Fausto Coppi for a ride as I had put new wheels on it. Mavic Cosmics. Beautiful. I rode to the local beach and did a couple of laps up and down and came home. Total km....about 10.
I live on the top of a steep hill. I dunno what percent it is, but its bloody steep. One of the steepest in my area. Im running 8 speed campag chorus with a triple crank. I got up that hill on the 30-21. The legs were hurting and I was puffing like hell but the gear was okay.
I just had a look at a gear chart. 30-21 equals 36-25 or a 39-27. No disrespect to you, or anyone else who wants a 32 cog ...but really? Im 60 and have ZERO fitness, and I wouldnt use one.
Are you sure you need it? And compact cranks as well? You must be younger and fitter than me, surely.

sure I get what your saying, my lowest gear is a 34 - 29, I cant ride that on the flat its so slow, hell I generally have trouble riding that on most hills, but I still use it every now and then. I use the 26 a fair bit, so having 1 easier gear than a commonly used gear is very nice to have.

[10speedsemiracer]

11-28 with a 50-34 should cope with most climbing in Australia.

[Kronos]

11-28 with a 50-34 should cope with most climbing in Australia.

I'm not averse to running a 50-34 out front, I'm just not 100% up to scratch with these people who advocate for wide cassettes and compact cranks.

[10speedsemiracer]

11-28 with a 50-34 should cope with most climbing in Australia.

I'm not averse to running a 50-34 out front, I'm just not 100% up to scratch with these people who advocate for wide cassettes and compact cranks.

So hang on, do you have a 50-34 or a 53-39 ?

[Kronos]

11-28 with a 50-34 should cope with most climbing in Australia.

I'm not averse to running a 50-34 out front, I'm just not 100% up to scratch with these people who advocate for wide cassettes and compact cranks.

So hang on, do you have a 50-34 or a 53-39 ?

I have a 53-39, but I wouldn't be averse to changing it. I've just never bothered to get into the whole compact thing, to be honest, I've never really seen the point in giving up top speed for easier gearing. But then I'm not an old man yet. I thought about adding an extra easy cog so at least you can get spinning again when you find yourself mashing, but then I realised you would have to be traveling somewhere less than 10km/hr already for it to make a significant difference.

[Duck!]

There aren’t any extra hassles running a long cage

True. But just to completely eliminate the thought of hassles, there is no such beast as a long-cage 6770 Di2 derailleur; that model was only made in short form.

Which leads to the the potential problem (not the cage itself, the body it is attached to); the 6770 RD officially has a maximum sprocket capacity of 28T, the same as the pre-update mechanoical 6700. When the mechanical version got an upper body geometry update to increase sprocket clearance, the Di2 model mised out. I do know of 32T cassettes being used with 6770, but it's down to your frame's derailleur hanger as much as anything else.

In short, 32T can work with 6770, but it also may not.

[Kronos]

There aren’t any extra hassles running a long cage

In short, 32T can work with 6770, but it also may not.

I'm aware of this which is another factor in putting me off the 32T. It can be done but it might break, and the 6770 rear derailleur is one of the harder parts to find now. Given this is the only 6770 rear derailleur I have in the spare parts pantry I'm also thinking for this reason to err on the side of caution. While I'm known not to give a hoot about boundaries at times I don't exactly want to blow up a hard to source derailleur. In which case the 11-32 is going to go on the backburner, I might try it out later on my other mechanical bike just to see what the difference is.

[Duck!]

It won't break, if it's not going to work it will just run really roughly on the largest sprocket or not shift to it. The fact you're running a 39/53 ring set means you'd actually have a little bit more tolerance for chain length than 50/34, due to the smaller jump between the rings.

[bychosis]

When I ride my SRAM bike and I get stuck in a situation where I'm grinding I do find myself clicking down in hope and then you're like Nothing more available, then you push yourself into the hurt zone unnecessarily or you become like that other guy who failed. This is where my thinking headed towards an 11-32 because do you really want to hurt yourself day in and day out when you're just supposed to be training?

If you've got it, sounds like you will use it. Therefore the question moves towards do you want to use it.

I used to run two cassettes on my 1x9 MTB. 11-28 for general riding, and 11-34 (or was it 11-32?) for 100km events for those long climbs. Eventually I stopped using the 11-28 because I didn't make the time to switch the 11-34 back off the bike. I suspect my 'everyday legs' power adapted to the lower gearing because I'd still find myself running out of gears and hoping for another one.