Where speeds may exceed 60 kmph
Haha - you're not wrong. Bloody awesome.
Might need you guys to assist/advise on a few final adjustments to it when I bring it tomorrow night - like moving the rear wheel forward a bit. And those tyres have got to go. For me, whitewalls were done and dusted by the seventies (before I was born). I cannot live with those. Ruins the stealth look of the bike.
Here is hoping for some fine weather tomorrow night. I really want to get some proper runs on the board.
Further to the coloured tyres - these are usually death on timber tracks! More details...
I use Vittoria Diamante Pro Lights for training and racing on both timber and concrete when riding my clinchers.
Dual compound tyres are also bad for the boards. One of my club-mates had a very bad time slipping all over DGV due to the transition between the compounds and the angle he was riding at (which can't be changed too much, given the circumstances).
Thanks gents - I will swap them over with the Giant tyres I've got. They came with my road-bike and look like they'd perish at the first sight of glass or debris. Should be ideal for track. I'll bring some tools along with me just in case they are needed tonight.
I wouldn't go shortening the chain.
Wheel is already forward in the drop out. If go a shorter chain you won't be able to fit a bigger chain ring. It isn't a geared TT bike where the wheel hugs the frame - wheel can sit back or forward depending on the gearing on for that particular race.
+1, don't shorten it unless it's actually necessary. Talk to Ian (club mechanic) at the track, he'll sort you out.
Good news. Standard gearing for Lidcombe these days. Now you'll want to get some cogs (13, 14, 15) and chainrings (48, 49, 50). I don't think you'll be going for anything bigger than that unless you're pursuiting in a serious way, and even then probably not. You'll also need a chainwhip and a c-spanner, which you can get as a combo tool, plus a 15 mm spanner, which you can get as an open ended pedal spanner on one end and a 14/15 doublesided socket type spanner on the other end. And, of course, some allen keys. You'll pick these up over time, but they're things you should keep an eye out for.
You won't need them for a while, and people around abouts can throw a 15 cog at you so you can see the difference. Similarly for the chainrings. You'll notice the difference gearing can make when you go to DGV. See you on Friday.
Already had the 15 cog on at first, the difference was huge. Spin spin spin as Murray Walker would say, all that effort for not very high speed. I soon as I got out and saw 30km/h at around 75rpm I knew that wasn't going to be right, and going quicker confirmed it right away. Swapping it with the 14 was much nicer (thanks Ian).
I'm having a look at the chart for the different options. But I'll go with what I've got and work on improving me.
I'm there on Friday - ready to be humbled.
I use veloflex records, both singles and clinchers on the track. In the past I've had contential supersonics. All good.
dalai, where did you get your front disk? What did it set you back?
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?
Front disc was bought locally as a set off ebay back in 2012 - paid the buy it now price of $850 for both wheels...
There was a set of Zipp 900 track discs that sold recently on ebay in Sydney for just over $1000, so they do appear for sale from time to time.
IMHO you'd be better getting a 5 spoke front track wheel. You can use it in all track races and is just as good as a front disc in a pursuit.
I'm using a 90mm fast forward that's also used on my TT bike.
At the 2013 NSW M5 pursuit champs the first 3 were using double disks. Of course they were top riders regardless of the equipment.
I have 3 rear disk wheels, if I found a front one at the right price I could sell a rear to partially cover the cost
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?
I love your Hoffy Foo.
I love how steep the angles are and how little rake is on the fork. The trail must be huge. Would be nice and stable at speed but easy too change lines.
You must have long shanks and a short torso like me. I'm 178 cm tall but have a 783mm seat height.
Yeah SS long legs and it was good for sharp movements and stable at speed on rough tracks.
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I don't suffer fools easily and so long as you have done your best,you should have no regrets.
Here's my Kerry Hopkins, fillet brazed out of Dedaccai Zero Uno. In the pic it has the deep carbon wheels for the state masters champs but normally it runs a set of hand built wheels using some beautifully smooth Mavic track hubs laced to black Campag Omega rims with aero spokes. This is my favourite bike in my shed. Every time I get on it, it feels fast and does what I want it to do (except go faster!)
I was hoping I'd have a set of old silver Shamals for it by now but thats still in progress, just waiting for the rear to be rebuilt.
I can't access most file sharing sites right now so I apologise about the dropbox link.
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