which Lights for commuting !!

[pagey]

I have the AYUPS and was looking at using the red caps for the rear light. Does anyone use them and if so how do you mount the light on the rear?

[casual_cyclist]

I have the AYUPS and was looking at using the red caps for the rear light. Does anyone use them and if so how do you mount the light on the rear?

I don't but I ride with someone who does. The answer is: with great difficultly. He jerry-rigged the helmet mount onto his rear rack and mounted the lights like that. I always wondered what it would be like to mount the handlebar mount on my seat-post vertically and the mount the lights on that like normal. Might be a good solution.

[slowflow]

Using the 900 lumen dealextreme front light & a cateye L110 xxx that has side lighting. Both are satisfactory, approx. $90 and $50 for cateye (ebay). Worth a look especially if you're not fully committed to commuting.

[wqlava1]

I'm an AyUp user and find it good enough not to slow me down on paths I would normally do 25-30km/h on in daylight, and just on the comfortable safety limit for a 60km/h roll down a road with a steepish 1.5km hill.

The comment not made here but which I have experienced practically and is discussed on DealExtreme's forums is when people have the 900 lumen lights instead on the 230-odd lumens of the Ayups, they glare oncoming traffic - including other bikes. Likewise helmet mounted lights. Both just cross my personal boundary of what I would like other oncoming traffic to do to me. The helmet ones are fine when everyone is going the same way in an all night race, but it's like when you are underground in a mine - it takes great practice not to accidentally glare your co-workers. And in the more dynamic world of cycling, one glare incident may be a bad injury.

[Fletcher]

I'm planning on taking the plunge and purchasing a good light set in the next few days. I'm not an MTBer, but a dedicated road rider/commuter. I've been making do with two different lights on front(Niterider Fazer Max and an insight 3-led) which, when used correctly, provide just enough light to ride by in unlit areas, when batteries are well charged.

I'm liking what I'm reading about Ay Ups. Question: is the intermediate beam the most appropriate for road commuting? They will be mounted over the bars, not my helmet.

I"ve checked out the competition, and for a few reasons Ay Ups seem the best buy for my use. I really like the look of the mount(how it goes over the stem, and not the bars, with room left for a 'puter), and how they won't take up much real estate on the bars. Under the stem seems a good place for the battery too.

As for the competition, Exposure lights are too chunky, and look heavy. Niterider mount either side of the stem, which is where I might want to put my hands. The final reason for wanting Ay Ups is the fact they're local.

I'm beginning to think it's a no-brainer.

[queequeg]

I'm liking what I'm reading about Ay Ups. Question: is the intermediate beam the most appropriate for road commuting? They will be mounted over the bars, not my helmet.

I have the intermediate beam AyUps and they are perfect for commuting. I target the lights at the road approximately 5-10m in front of the bike. At this distance, the full width of a road lane is lit up, with a nice bright section in the middle, and less bright light the edges.

[BrisVegas]

plenty of love for the Ayups! I too was wondering if a set of intermediates would be best for commuting on paths and 60kmh streets. Now I just have to find a way to afford them!

[Zynster]

My MagicShine light just arrived in the mail. Damn it's bright. I'll give a better review when I've run it for awhile.

[WAR11X]

My MagicShine light just arrived in the mail. Damn it's bright. I'll give a better review when I've run it for awhile.

I had a Magicshine now for aprox 5 months and can honestly say it is fantastic I think I paid around AU$130:00 Delivered with a helmet mount , I use the low beam for streets that have street lights and the high beam for the dark streets without street lighting and let me tell you that I have cars that actually stop and wait at intersections for me at night and pot holes can be seen well before you get to them . The light gets a little warm when on high beam and stationary for 10 mins or so otherwise its fine when you are on the move. The lead has around a meter length so I run my light battery in an old drink bottle in my cage . you can however use the Velcro bag and hang it from your frame or bars
Found a great light comparison site that does real life light brightness testing that helped me make my choice
http://fonarevka.lux-rc.com/
Specs from Geomangear site:
• Brand: Magicshine
• Model: P7 (MJ-808)
• Emitter Brand/Type: Seoul Semiconductors SSC
• Emitter BIN: P7-C-SXO
• Color BIN: White
• Total Emitters: 1
• Power Cord Length: Approximately 12" on lighthead plus 1 meter extension (included)
• Battery Configurations: Powered by a separate rechargeable battery pack (4 x 18650 lithium batteries inside)
• Voltage Input: 8.4V max
• Switch Type: Click Switch
• Switch Location: Tailcap
• Modes: 5
• Lighting Modes: High Mode@900 lumens > Mid Mode@500 lumens > Low Mode@200 lumens > Fast Blink > SOS Mode
• Circuitry: Digital Regulated 2400mA Current Output
• Brightness: 900 lumens maximum brightness (manufacturer rated)
• Runtime: 3 hours on High Mode (manufacturer rated)
• Lens: Coated Glass Lens
• Reflector: Light Orange Peel Reflector
• Mount: Integrated bar mount.
• Accessories Included: 100V~240V AC charger (US plug), Pouch included
• Weights: Lighthead: 4.2oz/120g, Battery Pack: 7.4oz/205g, Total: 11.6oz/325g (approx.)
• Warranty: Manufacturer - 90 days from purchase
• Origin: China

[rearviewmirror]

I'm running a Priceton Tec Switchback 3, this is by far the best commuting light I've found so far.

http://www.princetontec.com/?q=node/75

I normally run the 3-LED on flash since it's rechargeable. When it's actually dark out, I run it on steady, and use the two flashers at the top of the picture. There is no lack of light in the front.




In the rear I run this, this is the bright rear taillight I've come across, it's simply amazing. http://www.niterider.com/store_taillights.shtml

[Fred Nurk]

I'm planning on taking the plunge and purchasing a good light set in the next few days. I'm not an MTBer, but a dedicated road rider/commuter. I've been making do with two different lights on front(Niterider Fazer Max and an insight 3-led) which, when used correctly, provide just enough light to ride by in unlit areas, when batteries are well charged.

I'm liking what I'm reading about Ay Ups. Question: is the intermediate beam the most appropriate for road commuting? They will be mounted over the bars, not my helmet.

I"ve checked out the competition, and for a few reasons Ay Ups seem the best buy for my use. I really like the look of the mount(how it goes over the stem, and not the bars, with room left for a 'puter), and how they won't take up much real estate on the bars. Under the stem seems a good place for the battery too.

As for the competition, Exposure lights are too chunky, and look heavy. Niterider mount either side of the stem, which is where I might want to put my hands. The final reason for wanting Ay Ups is the fact they're local.

I'm beginning to think it's a no-brainer.

I can't comment on which beam to get (I've got the narrow beam Ay-Ups) though I do own both Ay-Ups and the Fazer Max, and I can assure you theres a huge difference. I was happy enough riding in almost pitch black with the narrow beam when I was commuting home in Darwin, whereas I couldn't see too much at all with the Fazer.

I was riding unlit bike paths and was happy with the narrow focus for that, though depending on your speed and the required focus for your light you may want something a bit wider. I suspect though, that on a road bike, you'll want more throw in a narrow focus in front of you, as the wide beam isn't likely to throw as far.

[slowflow]

WAR11x great link, comparative info in real terms. Best sight sofar.
I'm using the same emmitter SSC P7 but has only high, low & flash. Same output as spiderfire on you linked site.
Low beam for most of the commute but on the unlit cycle path high beam with plenty of light to travel safely (AT) 20-30k.

[wombatK]

Found a great light comparison site that does real life light brightness testing that helped me make my choice
http://fonarevka.lux-rc.com/

Well, it doesn't have any Ayup examples. It does have a Trustfire TR-801 in a the Road Dry 2 set - and that's got the same emitter but different optics to the Ayup, so it's a bit less than half what you get with an Ayup pair. And the beam shots of the TR-801 make it look much more spectacular than it really is.

Beam comparison shots are a pretty rough starting point. You need to be aware they can't capture the dynamics you get when moving along at 20 to 30 kph. The Ayup designers have ! I have a Ayups (intermediate beam), TR-801's and an SSC P7. The Ayups are the best. The deal-extreme multi-mode torches (TR-801 and SSC P7) all change mode every time you hit a bump, but might be sufferable if you are on a very tight budget.

Cheers

[slowflow]

. The deal-extreme multi-mode torches (TR-801 and SSC P7) all change mode every time you hit a bump, but might be sufferable if you are on a very tight budget.

Cheers[/quote]
Have not encountered any mode changes since Nov 09 using these as commuter lights.

[Mulger bill]

Comparing beamshots from different makers is a waste of time, even if they publish the camera settings used.

Shaun

[slowflow]

Comparing beamshots from different makers is a waste of time, even if they publish the camera settings used.

Shaun

Why?
Seems that there are too many variable light measurement methods to obtain meaningful figures for consumers.

[ColinOldnCranky]

While cyclists love spending big and love bright, for commuting, the thing that is not well provided for is a light that indicates your presence 360 degrees around. Is there such a light 'cos I don't see anyone using one.

For effective beams without selling the kids into bondage, visit Jaycar (but don't expect any relevant advice).

Of course, if you are going to ride at 50kph on straight PSPs then bright is good and visibility from front and rear covers most need. Though I'd also suggest ta reduced speed in the dark hours on PSP's

[Mulger bill]

Comparing beamshots from different makers is a waste of time, even if they publish the camera settings used.

Shaun

Why?
Seems that there are too many variable light measurement methods to obtain meaningful figures for consumers.

Ask any photographer, high speed film and long exposure will make a candle blinding.

Shaun

[ColinOldnCranky]

Mulga Bill has it right. Maybe save some effort and head over to my brief post at http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=25342&p=371512&hilit=galax*#p371512

It truly amazes me how easily people are misled. Seeing is NOT believing I'm afraid.

[slowflow]

Comparing beamshots from different makers is a waste of time, even if they publish the camera settings used.

Shaun

Why?
Seems that there are too many variable light measurement methods to obtain meaningful figures for consumers.

Ask any photographer, high speed film and long exposure will make a candle blinding.

Shaun

thanks.
I not suspecting that type of manipulation in a comparative photo.

[j-ho]

All those people that ride with what seems to be a spotlight on their bike, can you please only use it until you need to see where you are going? Use a small flash to be seen while on a lit bike path, and turn it on when you need to see where you are going. Those things almost blind me and are a hazard to oncoming riders, almost to the point where I'm about to kick one off someones handlebars. I am not joking...