Beating the system - the cycling commuting section
16 posts • Page 1 of 1
Hi, this is my first post.
I'm about to start commuting to university - about 10k each way, mainly on road and the Yarra bike trail. I've budgeted about $1000 for a bike.
I want panniers, mud guards and a lock too.
Where is it best to put my money - frame, gears, brakes?
Should I get flat handle bars?
I'm thinking I'd like internal gears and a belt-drive, but not sure if this is being silly.
If tempted, I could stretch my budget a bit.
Your advice would be most welcome.
Also, I'm in Albert Park, Melbourne and vendor recommendations would be appreciated.
For value for money you really cant go past the REID CITY 1 for $300 you get a bike with mudguards a rack for panniers as standard along with Tektro V brakes Shimano Tourney derailleurs and Shimano Tourney shifters EF 40 EZ FIRE. I bought one 2 months ago to commute to work 33km round trip and so far its done 1200km,s and rides great and most of the commute is off road along bike paths that are a bit rough in places, and it hasn't missed a beat. Not bad for $300.
Last edited by Paul 1965 on Mon Feb 03, 2014 5:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
cannondale bad boy commuter
focus planet (belt drive/IGH or normal derailleur options)
avanti inc (belt drive/IGH or normal derailleur options)
giant seek (belt drive/IGH or normal derailleur options)
Designs by Mitch - drafting specialist.
Yeah some really solid recommendations there.
add to that:
Kona Dr dew
all within your price range.
If you've got a $10 head, get a $10 helmet
If you're new to riding and don't want to get too hands-on changing components, buy a bike at the top end of your budget. That should give you good quality frame and components so you shouldn't be breaking or outgrowing anything too soon. If you decide to upgrade parts later you'll be starting from a good place. A $1,000 gear set on a $50 boat anchor frame is still going to ride like a $50 boat anchor.
Fuji Touring is another option, but this is $1100 rrp.
As for flat bars vs drops, its a personal preference and if you can, take a few different bikes for a test ride to see how you feel on them. Flat bars are more relaxed and you get a better view being upright, drops are more aerodynamic so if you just want to get your head down and power on they are much better. Drops also give you more options as you can ride with your hands on the brake hoods or fully down in the drops.
You should also look into bike maintenance courses - Sydney council has a great program with free basic maintenance courses, there may be something similar in Melbourne, or even at your uni.
10km each way, uni student, you don't need a $1k bike if that's all you'll be doing with it imho. i'm a uni student also and i'll be riding ~65-70km return on a 90s road bike fitted with fenders i built for commuting duties that cost not even a third of your budget
imo in all terms of practicality for a money-poor uni student, you'd be better off with three $300 or four $250 etc bikes than just the one $1K bike. I mean, it might get stolen, you lose it during a late night inebriation session etc etc
but if you do want to shell out on a good bike, get something that won't need replacement/onset of upgradeitis so you'll be satisfied with your ride for as long as possible
Just my 2c but it's your money so spend it how you see fit
1990 Peugeot Tourmalet
199x Rod Martin custom
1988 Shogun Celeste Beau
I bought my Giant Cross City for $1000 a few years ago but it seems you need more than $1000 to get the Tiagra parts I got.
Make sure you budget for a good lock. I had my bike stolen from uni. A rack and panniers will save you from a sweaty back.
That's what a fool does. I'm invincible, I'm paying money ... uh ... The girl's happy, she's got no money, I got my rocks off. How good is this?
Just get a $250 cell bike and save the rest. If I was parking my bike outside and in open view, it wouldn't be worth more than $500. The amount of half bikes I've seen floating around the place in Melbourne is ridiculous.
Specialized Secteur Expert
Kona Hei Hei DL
+1, or spend say $350 on a second hand bike that is better quality.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/port-mel ... 1047274894
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/melbourn ... 1047364613
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/carlton- ... 1047311779
Or my fav cheapy of the moment.
http://www.cellbikes.com.au/BEST_Fitnes ... Under_1000
But id maybe see if you can swap for some wider tyres.
typo's by Tapatalk
2012 Giant Defy Composite 1
2013 Giant Talon 0 29er
2013 Flight Podium 1
2013/14 Bianchi Infinito CV
Regardless of which lock you buy make sure you actually lock the "whole" bike. I can't believe the number of people that lazily lock the front wheel to a rack or the top tube to a rack and nothing else. If you have quick release levers and your lock doesn't pass through BOTH wheels then expect to come back one day to a missing wheel.
Same goes for add ons. I just spent $160 on a cycle computer and you can bet every time I walk away from my bike it will be in my pocket not left on my bike. Same goes for lights and pump. If it's easy to remove at home it's a target for theft on the street.
A great adventure starts with a single step
CERES bike shed in Brunswick, right near the end of the 96. They operate 11-5 Fri-Sun (not long weekends). Totally volunteer run with the aim of educating people about how to build and maintain their own bikes and, most importantly, recycle and reuse parts and equipment. I built about 5 bikes there over the last couple of years and always took my bikes there to use their tools and their expertise.
If you want a cheap and quick way to learn how to do basic bike mechanics (and even some more advanced stuff), then go here. $5 per year if your a student.
Steel - is - real
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