Upgrading from mechanical to Di2

Grgic
Posts: 301
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2014 12:46 pm
Location: Canberra

Upgrading from mechanical to Di2

Postby Grgic » Sat Apr 08, 2017 2:56 pm

Anyone got an idea of what it would cost to upgrade from a mechanical Ultegra groupset to a Di2? I put in a request for a quote to my LBS but they have yet to get back to me.

Bike in question is a 2015 Giant Trinity Comp 1.

g-boaf
Posts: 8605
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2011 6:11 pm

Re: Upgrading from mechanical to Di2

Postby g-boaf » Tue Apr 11, 2017 2:41 pm

If you have Ultegra 11 speed mechanical, keep your cassette.

You'll need the following:

https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-ulteg ... r-set.html
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-deore ... ttery.html
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-dura- ... ion-a.html
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-ulteg ... lleur.html
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-ulteg ... lleur.html
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-sm-bc ... cable.html

Also needed:
SM-JC41 internal junction and all the cables. The following has it, but also has stuff you don't want (battery connector and the 3 port junction box):
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-dura- ... large.html


Possibly optional (your bike might already have something suitable)
https://www.pushys.com.au/sm-gm01-rubbe ... -4pcs.html
https://www.pushys.com.au/sm-gm01-rubbe ... -4pcs.html

Optional:
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-ulteg ... d-tri.html

The last bit you may be able to do without if you don't want shifting from the brake levers (base bar). If you do want shifting from the base bar, then you've got to have these brake levers. There are other alternatives, but they are hack mods.

It's not that hard to do this all yourself, but it's expensive. I may have missed something, so double check just in case.

The internal battery can be located inside the seat post, provided your seat post has a big enough internal space to fit it. On my Cervelo P5 I put the "pencil battery" inside the seatpost, then stuff a whole heap of quite firm foam inside the seat post to hold the battery in place. This trick worked pretty well.

Tuning Di2 is simplicity. The front derailleur is easy to do, the rear derailleur, just don't forget the limit screws. They come in a default position, but you'll inevitably need to change that.

I did the Di2 install on my Cervelo P5 when I was building that, it was pretty easy to do. The only hard bit was getting shifting on the brake levers as I had the Magura RT8 TT hydraulic brakes which do not support gearshifting of any sort, so a hack mod was done to disassemble the SW-R761 rear shifter and stealth that in behind the bar tape on the base bar (and a lot of internal cable hacks to make it work).

Grgic
Posts: 301
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2014 12:46 pm
Location: Canberra

Re: Upgrading from mechanical to Di2

Postby Grgic » Wed Apr 12, 2017 6:18 pm

Thanks for the very informative and comprehensive post g-boaf! Much appreciated.

Grgic
Posts: 301
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2014 12:46 pm
Location: Canberra

Re: Upgrading from mechanical to Di2

Postby Grgic » Fri Apr 21, 2017 8:25 pm

Thanks again G-Boaf, using a variety of online retailers I've managed to snag...

Shimano Ultegra 6870 Di2 11 Speed Rear Derailleur
Shimano Ultegra DI2 SW-R671 Shift Set For TT/TRI - Pair L & R
Shimano ST-6871 Ultegra Di2 STI Gear Levers for TT/Tri Bar
Shimano FD-6870 Ultegra Di2 11-Speed Braze On Front Derailleur
Shimano Di2 BT-DN110 Internal Battery
Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 SM-EW90-B 5-Port Time Trial Junction A

For a princely some of just $1100.

How much cabling did you require to set all yours up?

g-boaf
Posts: 8605
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2011 6:11 pm

Re: Upgrading from mechanical to Di2

Postby g-boaf » Sun Apr 23, 2017 8:31 pm

I unfortunately cannot remember. I used the default cabling that came with my Giant TCR Advanced SL3, only adding the cable to connect the internal battery as I had none long enough.

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