Going Topless - I mean tubeless!!

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Going Topless - I mean tubeless!!

Postby glawrence2000 » Mon Jan 12, 2009 10:15 am

After 5 flats on the weekend, I think I’m ready to convert to tubeless. But I have a few questions I hope you guys can help me with....

The rims on the offending conveyance are DT-Swiss X430 double walls; when changing the tube on one of the many occasions on the weekend I noticed on the Rim Tape (which looked like a continuous piece of very heavy plumbers PTFE tape) the wording “Heavy Duty RIM Tape 70 – 150 PSI” The tape looks like it is shrink wrapped (heat shrunk) onto the rim and is a very snug fit.

The rims also have a great bead channel – better than that of all other rims I have / had. Being deep and very pronounced.

Q1. Are these rims tubeless compatible straight off the bat? The website – god bless it doesn’t seem to make mention of them although they are only 4 months old.
Q2. Will I need to use the tubeless rim tape that Stan’s No More Leaks talk about with these rims?
Q3. Do I need specific tubeless tyres or can I use my near new Schwalbe Nobby Nics?

Lots of conflicting or ambiguous information out there – I’m keen to hear from you guys whether you’ve converted to tubeless and the pitfalls therein.
Thanks heaps.
BMC 4Stroke 03. (web nazis won't let me put a third picture up :()
Voodoo Dambala 29er.
FELT AR4 Carbon.
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by BNA » Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:22 am

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Postby trailgumby » Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:22 am

If you can lift the rim tape and see spoke holes under it then your rim ain't tubeless. If the heatshrink extends all the way to bead channels and has a sort of teflony feel, then it may well be. I have a set of Mavic tubeless rims that fit the latter description.

Search this site for the phrase "cheap tubeless". From memory, you seal the spoke holes with a couple of laps (wraps) of electrical tape. Puncture it with a screwdriver at the valve hole and stretch a 1" x 20" inner tube around the rim, and put a small hole in the tube under the valve stem.

Fit one bead, put in some Stan's goo before fitting the other, and "pop" the beads into place with about 80psi from a compressor. Roll the wheel around to let the Stans goo plug the leaks.

Viola! Home-baked tubeless. You don't even need tubeless tyres - in fact regular foldable tyres are lighter and roll better.

Did I miss anything?

Oh, there's a recipe on site here somewhere for some home-made sealant goo if you want to be fully DIY.
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Postby Deanj » Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:46 pm

I'm pretty sure the x430 rims will need a rim strip to be converted to tubeless. I've used both the stans and Dt Swiss tubeless kits and prefer the Dt swiss but both work great, or you can use the way as mentioned in the "cheap tubless" thread.

As mentioned above using non tubless tyres is fine, I do myself most of the time as they are lighter. Maxxis seal very well but it took a while with Kendas as little holes kept appearing in the side walls and required a bit more time. I can seal UST tyres with a floor pump but need a compressor for standard tyres so that may be something for you to think about if you don't have access. I wouldn't worry about if not as you already have the tyres just try it and see how you go.
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Postby Kalgrm » Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:45 pm

I'm using Nobby Nics in my ghetto tubeless system.

My sealant is a mixture of one part liquid latex (AKA mould builder, from an art supply shop), one part radiator coolant concentrate (for the ethyl glycol contained in it, to reduce evaporation) one part "Slime" (seals any punctures) and one part water. It costs about $50 for the ingredients, which is enough to do about 20 tyres.

Cheers,
Graeme
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