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- Posts: 235
- Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 12:49 pm
- Location: Annandale, Sydney
The rims on the offending conveyance are DT-Swiss X430 double walls; when changing the tube on one of the many occasions on the weekend I noticed on the Rim Tape (which looked like a continuous piece of very heavy plumbers PTFE tape) the wording â€œHeavy Duty RIM Tape 70 â€“ 150 PSIâ€ The tape looks like it is shrink wrapped (heat shrunk) onto the rim and is a very snug fit.
The rims also have a great bead channel â€“ better than that of all other rims I have / had. Being deep and very pronounced.
Q1. Are these rims tubeless compatible straight off the bat? The website â€“ god bless it doesnâ€™t seem to make mention of them although they are only 4 months old.
Q2. Will I need to use the tubeless rim tape that Stanâ€™s No More Leaks talk about with these rims?
Q3. Do I need specific tubeless tyres or can I use my near new Schwalbe Nobby Nics?
Lots of conflicting or ambiguous information out there â€“ Iâ€™m keen to hear from you guys whether youâ€™ve converted to tubeless and the pitfalls therein.
- Posts: 12668
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:30 pm
- Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney
Search this site for the phrase "cheap tubeless". From memory, you seal the spoke holes with a couple of laps (wraps) of electrical tape. Puncture it with a screwdriver at the valve hole and stretch a 1" x 20" inner tube around the rim, and put a small hole in the tube under the valve stem.
Fit one bead, put in some Stan's goo before fitting the other, and "pop" the beads into place with about 80psi from a compressor. Roll the wheel around to let the Stans goo plug the leaks.
Viola! Home-baked tubeless. You don't even need tubeless tyres - in fact regular foldable tyres are lighter and roll better.
Did I miss anything?
Oh, there's a recipe on site here somewhere for some home-made sealant goo if you want to be fully DIY.
- Posts: 1698
- Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:03 pm
- Location: Adelaide
As mentioned above using non tubless tyres is fine, I do myself most of the time as they are lighter. Maxxis seal very well but it took a while with Kendas as little holes kept appearing in the side walls and required a bit more time. I can seal UST tyres with a floor pump but need a compressor for standard tyres so that may be something for you to think about if you don't have access. I wouldn't worry about if not as you already have the tyres just try it and see how you go.
- Super Mod
- Posts: 9653
- Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 5:21 pm
- Location: Success, WA
My sealant is a mixture of one part liquid latex (AKA mould builder, from an art supply shop), one part radiator coolant concentrate (for the ethyl glycol contained in it, to reduce evaporation) one part "Slime" (seals any punctures) and one part water. It costs about $50 for the ingredients, which is enough to do about 20 tyres.
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