MTB build - recommendations

[Alistair]

The frame finally arrived... i had just about given up. I was hoping it would be here all last week, then when i had forgotten all about it i tripped over it on my doorstep in the dark last night.

I have to go and get the bits, but i have lined up good wheels and tyres, disks/calipers/levers, a casette and both derailleurs, a stem, bars and some other bits and pieces.

I need a (i think) zero stack headset... what is that, and where should i look for one? Then a seat post, seat and i think i am set. Hopefully it will go together easily

Thinking of painting it satin black - still undecided though

[Alistair]

Thought i had better get onto this, after being distracted by something else for the last couple of weeks.

Pulled the frame out on friday and cleaned it. Put some paint stripper on too, as i had decided to go with bare metal... but the paint stripper did nothing, so i looked through my paint selection and found some decent metallic gunmetal grey. I think it works well - i'm sure it will get scratched soon anyway.

Picked up the bits to go on it and now it has plenty waiting to be fitted. The wheels are great, and everything seems pretty good quality. Got some carbon bars in the deal, so all i need now is a stem, seatpost, seat, shifters and front brake.

Anyone got recommendations for a reasonably priced set of shimano shifters?

Some crap phone pics - really need to paint the fork, but it isn't a priority

[trailgumby]

Looks good in gunmetal.

LX dual control can often be picked up at a good price. Includes hydro brakes and shifters in an integrated set. I have them on my trail bike, and an XT set on my commuter. Excellent power and shifting ergonomics.

[Alistair]

I'm happy with it, for a cheap paint job. It has plenty of clear, so i can sand it back to get it nice and shiny

I've already got brakes sorted. I actually quite like twist shifters, but are there any decent shimano ones? If not i'll have to get trigger ones, which isn't a big problem

[Alistair]

Finally got this finished, as i've had a few days off. Been for a couple of gentle rides around the inner city, but just took it for a hard run. It was great tonight, although it still needs a few tweaks. Hopefully i will get out on the dirt tomorrow, and get a chance to see how it goes.

Thanks for all the advice - proper photos tomorrow. Here is a crap phone one for now http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b116/ ... =built.jpg

[}SkOrPn--7]

Alistair you have done a great job of building and painting the frame it's looking real sweet can't wait for more images.

[trailgumby]

Unfortunately Shimano don't do performance grade twist shifters - that's SRAM.

+1 - looks excellent. Hayes Nine hydro brakes?

You in Sydney? I'm off the bike at the moment due to a traffic incident a coupole of weeks ago, but I organise regular trail rides around the northern beaches. You're welcome to join us, and I can show you around.

[Alistair]

Thanks guys - i still haven't got it out on the dirt, but will soon. It is still very much being tuned, but the basics are there, and it feels good. The brakes are just hayes cable disks but i have been pleased with how well it stops. I haven't had a bike with disks before and am surprised by how much better they are than rim brakes! I had planned on them being short term until i went to hydros, but i can't see myself needing more stopping power, and i like the simplicity.

I ended up getting a sram trigger shifter from a friend for the front, and found a new right deore one at a bike shop before christmas. It probably isn't very good, but it works well and seems to be decent enough for now. I like being able jump a few gears at a time - it is particularly handy with the hills near me

I like the carbon bars too - for no other reason than i love carbon...

I will get some more detailed photos soon, but i still haven't got it out and used it properly. I am in melbourne too - a couple of minutes from westerfolds in templestowe. I've grown up on the tracks around here and can't wait to have a go on this bike. Thanks for the offer though - good luck with the rest of your recovery.

[trailgumby]

The bonus with hydros is that they're actually easier to manage than cable discs, believe it or not - a lot less fiddling to adjust for pad wear and centring the caliper.

They have more power and modulation (although Hayes Nine are a little lacking in modulation from my experience). They also don't have cables to clog up in wet weather riding - no cable drag. You do use your rear brake quite a lot when the trail gets rough especially when starting out with offroad riding, as a mistimed application of the front - say, as you hit a small obstacle or rut - will eject you over the bars As you gain experience you learn to use the front brake safely and it returns to become your primary method of slowing down.

But Hayes cable discs are quite good. I started wth cable discs.

Australian Mountain BIke magazine did a skills DVD a couple of issues back that is now available as a separate purchasable item. I thought it was pretty damn good and it covers off all the essential skills for XC trail riding, including the basics of ride position, turning and applying the brakes, as well as the more advanced stuff.

[Kalgrm]

They have more power and modulation ....

The importance of this statement might not be obvious at first glance. You're probably thinking "Why would I ever want more power than what I have now?"

More power and better modulation means you need to apply less finger pressure to control your braking for any given stopping force. This means you can use only your index finger for most braking situations, allowing you to grip the bars (sometimes for dear life! ) with the other three fingers of each hand. This, in turn, gives you better steering, so on a prolonged and technical decent, you'll be in control the whole way down.

One good thing about cable brakes is the lack of fluid heating on a long decent.

Cheers,
Graeme

[trailgumby]

They have more power and modulation ....

The importance of this statement might not be obvious at first glance. You're probably thinking "Why would I ever want more power than what I have now?"

More power and better modulation means you need to apply less finger pressure to control your braking for any given stopping force. This means you can use only your index finger for most braking situations, allowing you to grip the bars (sometimes for dear life! ) with the other three fingers of each hand. This, in turn, gives you better steering, so on a prolonged and technical decent, you'll be in control the whole way down.

One good thing about cable brakes is the lack of fluid heating on a long decent.

Cheers,
Graeme

Haha, yes. "Arm pump". I got that big time last race I did. It had a lot of long, rough descents that were an absolute hoot. Positioning of controls is very important. To enable one-finger braking the brake master cyclinders need to be mounted quite a ways inboard on the bars.

Since that race I've replaced the Easton bars with wider, beefier DMR ones so I can get this right. Much better. Don't feel like my arms have blown up like balloons from lactic acid and are going to give out after a long descent any more. I probably need to harden up with a bit of weights training, too.

I've never encountered heat-related brake fade. Heat related brain-fade usually kicks in first.

[Kalgrm]

I've never encountered heat-related brake fade. Heat related brain-fade usually kicks in first.

I've had heating problems on one of our lovely little hills here. It's not long, but it's very steep. It's known locally as The Whore, mainly for what it does to you on the climb up.

I wouldn't describe the heating problem as "fade" though - it's actually more like brake lock-up. The fluid inside the lines expands and prevents the brakes from fully releasing, so that when you reach the bottom of the hill, you've got to stop for a few seconds and let the pads retract from the rotors as the fluid cools.

Cheers,
Graeme

[trailgumby]

I wouldn't describe the heating problem as "fade" though - it's actually more like brake lock-up. The fluid inside the lines expands and prevents the brakes from fully releasing, so that when you reach the bottom of the hill, you've got to stop for a few seconds and let the pads retract from the rotors as the fluid cools.

OK, that fits. Both, actually - brakes and brain.

It was more like disc rub. Went away after a bit and I thought no more of it.