new (to me) bike - fork recommendations?

[Dadrock]

So thanks to Freecycle I've got a new MTB to replace the old and very tired Shogun TrailBreaker

It's a 50cm Avanti Montari. Don't know the year - does the serial no. give anything away? A000780110 I'll take some pics tomorrow...

It's running Weinmann 519 rims on shimano RM40 hubs. Alvio RD and a Acera FD. 3x8 speed.
It's got what looks like non-original chromed cro-mo road forks, and I wouldn't mind replacing them so I can jump gutters with a bit more confidence.

I commute daily on a road bike, but I've been using the Trailbreaker to tow a trailer for the youngest kids, and now the eldest wants to go riding off the tarmac.

Any suggestions for decent entry level 2nd hand suspension forks? I prefer something hard, I don't want to bob along like I see some MTB's doing on the street. Maybe something with lockout for the road. I won't be doing downhill or anything though...

[Mulger bill]

I'd be wary of 2nd hand boingers. You just don't know how thrashed they've been.
If you aren't going to go big, why not go a rigid MTB fork and a 2.3 tyre? Lots of boing in a big fattie.

Shaun

[Fred Nurk]

I'd be wary of 2nd hand boingers. You just don't know how thrashed they've been.
If you aren't going to go big, why not go a rigid MTB fork and a 2.3 tyre? Lots of boing in a big fattie.

Shaun

Mulger's got a point. If you buy a second hand fork and it needs a service, you can be up for at least the purchase price again, depending on fork type.

New RockShox Dart 2-3 (about the minimum you want to be looking at, any less and you're better off with Mulger Bill's suggestion) retail at about $250 in Aus. I probably wouldn't be buying something that level second hand.

Overseas supply of some forks can start at around $350 landed (again, slightly better spec RockShox), you still need to add in cutting of the steerer tube and fitment of the crown race (assuming you need to get the LBS to do it).

I got my Rebas overseas for about $500, last time they were serviced was about $220.

If you're keen to spend at least $250, you've got a number of options. Any less, and Mulger's suggestion makes more sense.

All of the above assumes a 1 1/8" steerer tube and threadless headset. http://www.rotorburn.com has a trading section that may give you an idea of second hand fork prices and availability.

[Dadrock]

Thanks for the replies.

The big tire idea makes sense, but the rims specify 1.5-1.75 tires - will 2.2 still fit? I don't want to pop the bead the first time I hit a decent pothole!

I'm assuming that this bike is a 1 1/8" threadless stem as well. As to second hand forks, how rebuildable are they? I've rebuilt a quite a few motorcycle forks over the years - is a mountain bike fork rebuild a DIY proposition? I like a challenge...

Thanks for the Rotorburn tip. I'll head over there and have a look.

[}SkOrPn--7]

Thanks for the replies.

The big tire idea makes sense, but the rims specify 1.5-1.75 tires - will 2.2 still fit? I don't want to pop the bead the first time I hit a decent pothole!

They will be fine it's rare that a rim can't take larger size tyres

I'm assuming that this bike is a 1 1/8" threadless stem as well. As to second hand forks, how rebuildable are they? I've rebuilt a quite a few motorcycle forks over the years - is a mountain bike fork rebuild a DIY proposition? I like a challenge...

Just measure the diameter and if it's 28.6mm then it's a 1 1/8 steerer tube

If you want a fairly stiff fork that doesn't create the bob effect when powering up hills etc that is cheap but does a good job look at a "RST Gila Pro TNL, 100mm travel with turn lock out". I rank this fork better that a Rockshox Dart 3 which is entry level. Bang for buck this thing kicks butt and can be found for about $160.00 - $200 brand new on evilbay in blaCK or white

Thanks for the Rotorburn tip. I'll head over there and have a look.

[Fred Nurk]

Thanks for the replies.

The big tire idea makes sense, but the rims specify 1.5-1.75 tires - will 2.2 still fit? I don't want to pop the bead the first time I hit a decent pothole!

I'm assuming that this bike is a 1 1/8" threadless stem as well. As to second hand forks, how rebuildable are they? I've rebuilt a quite a few motorcycle forks over the years - is a mountain bike fork rebuild a DIY proposition? I like a challenge...

Thanks for the Rotorburn tip. I'll head over there and have a look.

The other thing you obviously have to worry about is whether you've got enough clearance in the frame / fork to run the larger tyres. I must admit my XC rims don't have a tyre width specified, but I've run up to a 2.4 in them with no issues (it gets close to the fork brace, but thats to be expected).

There is certainly an option of rebuilding forks at home if you have the gear. The real issue with that is if you have to replace some of the parts, they can be hard to get hold of. That said, RockShox publish fork service manuals on their website, which makes it pretty straightforward.

Thats also likely to be a reason to avoid RST, I'm not aware that they publish much in the way of service guides, and despite the opinions stated above I've not heard too many people who really like them, or have gotten the same usage out of them as something like a RockShox or Marzocchi.

[Dadrock]

More good recommendations. This forum has a great signal to noise ratio!

I hate buying new (I'm a tighta**e). What do people think of this Rock Shox Duke SL
I'm no expert, but the GT Zaskar is a good bike, isn't it? I'd pay up to $150...too much?

I might see if I can find some second hand fatties from somewhere and see how they go.

cheers!

[}SkOrPn--7]

More good recommendations. This forum has a great signal to noise ratio!

I hate buying new (I'm a tighta**e). What do people think of this Rock Shox Duke SL
I'm no expert, but the GT Zaskar is a good bike, isn't it? I'd pay up to $150...too much?

Nothing wrong with being a tightbutt I was born with a fishes butt it's water tight...................

Is the GT Zaskar the carbon frame one? If it is I would not go carbon if the bike is second hand or new for what you want it for and for the issues that may result in you needing a new bike very soon. Carbon is not something that a back yard hack should own and I'm not calling you a back yard hack it's just an expression to make you aware of the issues in carbon frames and the diligent looking after it needs. Carbon doesn't take to knocks and abuse like a steel or alloy frame bike does and I'm no backyard hack and I still wouldn't purchase a carbon bike.

I think someone else above made mention of this but the first thing you need to do is measure your headset tube on the bike you have then add the height of your headset stack to that length plus you will need to also add the stem height and spacers to this as well because if the fork steerer tube is short then you will blow your money. This is critical because that measurement will determine what the minimal length your forks steerer will need to be and it's already stated on ebay that the forks steerer tube is only 165mm and that is short really short...............

I must also say I agree with the folks above about forks the more you pay the better the quality and length it will last before a rebuild if at all a rebuild will be needed so yes be aware of the cheaper entry level stuff.

I might see if I can find some second hand fatties from somewhere and see how they go.

cheers!

[Fred Nurk]

More good recommendations. This forum has a great signal to noise ratio!

I hate buying new (I'm a tighta**e). What do people think of this Rock Shox Duke SL
I'm no expert, but the GT Zaskar is a good bike, isn't it? I'd pay up to $150...too much?

I might see if I can find some second hand fatties from somewhere and see how they go.

cheers!

Zaskar is indeed a good bike, GT still make it in various forms, as noted above. For what its worth I've got an 07 Zaskar.

That said, the Duke is an older fork, and I don't believe that its still in production. As stated by others, you also need to check the steerer tube length if buying second hand (if you buy new you pay the bike shop to cut it for you). You can get people like Gripsport to extend the steerer tube for you, but add in that cost and you're back to buying new forks overseas again.

[Dadrock]

Ok. So I need to measure the length of my steerer tube. check.
I'll keep an eye on eBay for late model RockRox and Marzocchi forks.
thanks guys.
next job is to shorten the 'bars. they seem cowhorn wide to me!

[trailgumby]

Unless you're worried about banging your hand passing between trees on your particualr trails, leave 'em as is. I started with narrowing my bars on my first hardtail, but now as I've becoem more skilled I prefer them the stock width.

It gives you more leverage to put your weight on the inside hand as you turn in with your weight on the outside foot. Enables you to be more agressive with the bike and keep traction turning in hard when the grip is iffy.