23 posts • Page 1 of 1
Hey guys can anyone tell me if I can change my original crankset from this http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/index. ... &tnid=3006 to this http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/conte ... ype-..html I do not know much about Mountain bikes
Merida Scultura 905 2013
cell messenger fixie 2013
Both seem to be square taper, so they should swap over and be fine. I'd save a little bit more and go for another level or two up in terms of crank quality though, but thats me.
MY RIDES: My Velospace Profile
Yep http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/conte ... ype-..html
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shi ... query=m590
for around $80 including a new bottom bracket (an SM-BB51).
Or you could step up to http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shi ... t-ec008629 for an extra $15 or so but the only difference is the bottom bracket (an SM-BB50)
But I've no idea how the BB's differ either!
Last edited by silentbutdeadly on Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ours is not to reason why...merely to point and giggle
I can't see any good reason why you need to go a higher level in Shimano for general MTB. Just get them. Most MTB stuff has a hard life and you may trash any cranks you own in a relatively short time.
Two problems with Deore (and up) besides the extra cost are you need to get you BB shell faced for the external bearings. Also the bearings don't last as long as your current type because the seals are exposed to the spray of the front wheel. The advantage of the Deore is lighter weight and stiffer design. I have noticed a minor difference in stiffness, but I don't know whether it is worth the extra money and durability problem. If you are heavy it may be worth it.
I have two piece:
I also have some cheaper square taper cranks like the Alivio.
Last edited by Nobody on Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Square-taper Deore will fit the existing BB and as a bonus is ten bucks cheaper than the two-piece set... I've run one on my commuter/shopping bike/occasional MTB for the last couple of years. They're getting hard to find though.
Yeah there is an alivio 9 speed group now, and 10 speed deore, so they stopped making those.
I wouldn't worry about running 8 speed alivio cranksets anyway - so long as you are happy with a 42 rather a 44 big chainring - which is about 99% of all casuals. The crankset was never the weakpoint of the group, and I know the crankset works fine with 9 speed chains in an otherwise purely 9 speed group. The RD and shifters are the meh bits.
About 3 years ago, alivio cranksets got the deore style scoop-hollow (old is new), crank arms anyway, so I'm not convinced that other than maybe a slightly less durable middle ring, a few grams and the particular BB they fit, there is much difference.
I just stuck one of these on my Giant Boulder http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/ ... AID=389818
Easy to do but you will need the right BB tools and some patience to set up the front deraileur. Its not a brazed one is it as you mighten have enough room to move it as it needs to come down about 10mm?
LBS says I will also need a 9sp chain- It runs ok with the 8sp one but rubs slightly when in little little and big big rings which you shouldnt do anyway. I am due for anew chain in the next month or so- Maybe its time for a 9speed shifter and um hydrolic brakes and------!!!
IMHO square taper BB's have their place, but you would rarely choose on over an external BB unless you're moving to something like a Tune Fastfoot crank
I dont mean to sound like a !! BAN ME NOW FOR SWEARING !!, but-
Having raced MTB's for close to 10 years and raced bikes generally on and off for 30 years, but I've been through my share of cranks.
I dont know how many miles you plan on doing on it or what you're trying to achieve by upgrading the crank, but an external bearing BB is stiffer, places less strain on bearing and sorry to disagree with posts above, but will last as long as a square taper or longer when looked after (clean the bike!).
Think about it. There's a reason all low end cranks are square taper and high end are external BB.
External BB's any day. Cleaner, easier and tend to have less issues.
I've learnt a valuable lesson with bike components from the major brands. You tend to get what you pay for.
Go the Deore cranks if you can swing it.
2010 Cannondale Flash Carbon 29er - 8.0kg, 2002 Cannondale CAAD6 R4000Si, 2010 Cannondale CAAD9 4 (for sale)
Speaking as an owner of the 2010 deore HT II crankset. meh.
no way of detecting stiffness. no impact on performance whatsoever even for a heavy, fit rider. (suspension moves first - 30psi tires would also move first). My road bike is sooo way stiff with an internal despite having a heavy rider and 177.5mm cranks, that the only blind test effect you'd ever notice is changing to cheap wheels, or a slow leak.
More frequent maintenance, and rather than just tightening, I have to buy new bearings seasonally too.
The -GOOD- thing about external cranks is the reliable attachment of the left crank arm.
They're not called Faulty Spares Attached for nothing
Have to admit I knackered the NDS square-taper Deore by under-tightening it, but that's just user error. Not sure whether outboard BB cranks are any more reliable in this regard if not installed correctly?
I would go for these, with the necessary external bearing bb. I switched from low-end shimano cranks to XT on one bike recently and couldn't believe the weight difference. Deore will be a fraction heavier, but the modern design is much better than the old stuff - in my opinion anyway.
Nevertheless, their life can be shorter, although for some brands more than others. For example, FSA have a very poor reputation for BB longevity. The ones in my commuter died horribly.
The painful thing is that while FSA cranks are nominally 24.0mm, they're just a poofteenth too big for an XT bottom bracket to accept them. Just that weeny bit too tight to get them all the way into the correct lateral position. The new FSA BB seems to be OK so far.
OTOH, the Gigapipe BB in my original Mongoose hardtail went gritty on my first off-road ride. Now that sucked worse than the original FSA BB.
The crank sits against the rotating part of the bearing, not against the stationary part. The necessary split between the rotating and the stationary is outside the circumference of the crank - you can see the rotating part of the bearing clearly over the crank. My crank is grease stained in this area from a washing out effect, which started up pretty much first time I got rained on.
I've no doubt someone fitting XTR couldn't care less if preventative maint includes replacing the bearings frequently, but it doesn't fit the rationale behind deore.
I can see a good reason to go higher than Deore, bling factor and I couldn't bring myself to ride a bike that has Alivio cranks, its just not the done thing!
Last time I checked, 2015 Distance: 1284km Time: 59hr Rides: 47
The el cheapo Shimano cranks I had on the MTB last year served me well. The only reason I changed was I wanted to go to shorter cranks.
Last edited by Nobody on Sun Jul 03, 2011 4:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Nobody, everybody's different but I consider Alivio to be the high end groupset for people who ride on bike paths and Deore to be the entry level off-road groupset, I prefer higher than entry level so run SLX and XT. I had a set of Deore shifters for 7 years and still have a set of 8 year old Deore hubs I'll retire this year, but for me, I wouldn't buy a bike with any Alivio on it and I wouldn't replace any component with less than SLX.
Last time I checked, 2015 Distance: 1284km Time: 59hr Rides: 47
Agreed on all counts. Additionally, I find the ergonomics of the lower end stuff to be horrible (read: tendonitis from the shifters) , it doesn't stay in adjustment very long, and wears out proportionately quickly (XTR* excluded). If you're a regular rider, anything less than Deore won't keep its reliability and consistency very long.
While it was my learner bike, being my first LBS-sourced bike and the first one I used heavily for commuting, my experience of the SX-4 transmission on my dear departed Mongoose Tyax hardtail was it constantly required adjustment, and the 8-speed transmission needed replacing completely every 1,500-2,000kms. If I'd spent more for a higher level spec (27-speed instead of 24) it would have cost less over its service life, and would have been much more reliable.
*With XTR its more about performance and weight, so while it lasts very well the price jump is a bit hard to digest. I do like the XTR chains, though... longest lasting of the ones I've found so far, now that Rohloff is out of production (hopefully only temporarily)
That may be the case but we are only talking about cranks here. There are no bearings and only chainwheels to wear out (which don't wear out very fast anyway).The associated UN54 square taper BB would easily outlast any external bearing BB anyway and are cheap. I still don't think it is a bad choice.
Anyway this should be my last post in this thread.
actually i just bought a replacement set of Alivio square taper cranks that swapped over just fine. except that they sit further out on the BB, out of reach of the FD! presumably i need a narrower BB spindle. so not all square taper cranks are compatible.
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