I think EVERYONE is looking for that combo!
Trouble is, grippy and fast rolling and all conditions are nearly mutually exclusive. Tell us what's most important to you: then we have a chance of giving a sensible answer ....
Picked up my XTC 2 today and was talking to Tim Bennett at the LBS about tyres. He said the same thing as Graeme. What do you want? Speed or Grip?
In terms of grip he felt I had made a good choice with my Kenda Blue Groove Stick E on the front for WA conditions. This was, BTW, Graeme's recommendation.
Last edited by Aushiker on Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
My reasons for the Blue Groove are:
1/ Grip - very good in most conditions
2/ Moderate rolling resistance.
You don't want it because it is not tubeless-ready. It delaminates with sealant contact (apparently...)
Yeah definatly 2 words that don't go together. Aiming for more grip as its the front but don't want to sacrifice too much speed as it will be my race tyres. Mud shouldn't really come into it here with the lack of rain, so thats not to much of a worry. I'm thinking of the maxxis ignitor but only going on what I've read.
I suggest you send Tim an email. He races and has just put new tubeless tyres on this wheels (man they are light) for a race in the eastern states and he was focusing on speed not grip.
He is a really nice guy. Their website is http://kalamundacycles.com.au/ and you can get his race history and Jo his wife history as well why you are about it.
Maxxis Larsen TT,Tubeless.
I havent ridden my tubeless yet but love my none tubeless ones.3 of the guys at my LBS are testers for Australian MTB so should know there stuff and thats what they recommended.
Ive never been a fan of Kenda...Ive always felt that they are fitted to bikes as stock tyres because they are cheap to manufacture. That said, Ive found running a Nevagal rear, Blue Groove front, awesome grip but they are heavy and slow rolling. The SmallBlock8 is a tyre I would like to try out though...think its like a Larson actually...hummm...
I currently use a set of standard wire bead Larson TT 2.0" on both wheels but a wider 2.3" works really well...offering that extra cornering grip. Larsons are very light and really fast over gravel etc. Using one as a rear, you can do better as I have found a loss of traction every now and then but they go great.
Another option is to run the Larson on the front and a Crossmark on the back. Crossmark's have a near connected central tread pattern which is leathal on hardpack...really fast rolling...but these tend so suffer somewhat in wet and muddy conditions. That combo is very popular.
Another option if your wanting a more aggressive front tyre would be to run a Maxxis Ignitor. Ignitors, like the Larsons are awesome in all contitions but excell as a front tyre because of their aggressive tread. I felt this tyre and the Continetal Vertical were one in the same, although the Vertical was significantly heavier.
It all comes down to trial and error. What works for me or others may not work for you. Terrain, weather and even bike geometry and riding styles can effect how a tyre performs but you will soon see whats popular and what works.
All the above tyres are UST compatibe...not sure about the Vertical though...
I use a Crossmark on the rear...rather have a bit more grip up front.But now running tubeless should be able to drop the pressures a bit as well.
Is that one of the advantages of tubeless? Being able to run a lower pressure without fear of pinch flats?
I had a good bike ... so I fixed it
Yep..and lower rolling resistance...and lighter wheels...might be more but can't think of them...plus i haven't tried them yet.Was going to the 8 hour sunday but have to spend the morning with the Gladiators .Good excuse to stay out of the slop.
Do you run tubeless toolonglegs?
Ive been meaning to pull that ghetto tubeless conversion on my hardtail...weight saving really is negligable but just the whole idea of avoiding pinchflats as well as pin-prick punctures (as the latex on the inside of the tyre self-seals)...sounds cool!
I have done the Stans No kit option....definate weight difference as I used to run heavy weight hutchison green tubes..those things weigh a tonne!.Took 20 mins to convert but havent tried them yet.
I like riding in the rain but dont like replacing clusters every 10 or so hours!.
my mtb's are total mix n match...front is 519 rim and rear is 521 mavic rim.I need free ride rims on my cross country mtb!.You don't know me yet but i can break anything
Probably 100-150 grams on the rear wheel as i ran down hill tube on that.Front not that much.
You should jump onto Chain Reaction Cycles and order up a set of 717s on Hope Pro II hubs. These are literally the beez neez of wheels. Light and strong! You could always step up to the 721 which I have always considered a 'front wheel' for DH but its still XC-able. The beauty of the CRC build is that the hubs are bloody awesome! Sealed catridge bearings and your choice in colour! Loud freehub too! The wheels cost around $450 posted from UK (here in a week) and then I recommend taking them to your local bike shop and getting them pre-stressed and tightened etc just because CRC builds are worse then mine! And that says something!
But yeah, definatly worth a look if you want a light and strong wheelset!
Definatly the guys to listen too! I had read things against it on the front but you can't question those guys really and your approval is always a good one.
Will be going with the crossmark on the rear, just I'm giving the ignitor a little thought as racing will be all through the winter, so just in case we get a few wet ones it would give me that bit more grip. Though if its like last winter, the ground will be like rock and I'd be better with the larsen from the sound of it. Anyone get a spare set of wheels they want to lend for 6 months?
Oh there is many things i would like to spend money on...but my mtb takes a back seat,doesn't get that much use these days.I can win on the road but at 103kg's i cant win on a mtb...so i go where the glory is
I use a Hutchinson Scorpion on the front. I like it as a front tyre, has a good ridge of side knobs which hooks up well in turns. Lousy rear tyre as the compound wears really fast.
Main thing I like in a front tyre is thick square knobs, in the middle for the brake to grab with, and on the sides for cornering. Most of your rolling resistance and tyre is on the back tyre, and your front tyre is more important for control, so bigger tread patterns on your front.
Bnej has a good point: don't worry too much about the rolling resistance on the front tyre. The rear tyre contributes the most to rolling resistance on the MTB and you want the front tyre to bite in, providing control for steering and braking.
I havent raced anything apart from 24hours etc since 2000.I was 85 kilos then (20 lighter than now!)and was floating between sport / expert.But the gradings have changed since then as there was only these 2 grades so sport was very strong...then they split it to Sport / Expert / Elite.
But these days I would race vets...unless I was in the US where I hear they have a Clydesdale class
i run crossmarks front and back, mainly becuase they roll fast, they dont grip so well on quick corners but they are predictable, they dont suddenly let go and flick you off with no warning, you can tell when you've reached the limit and when its going to slide on you, more predictable sliding is better IMO then a grippier tyre that just flicks you off when its reached its limit with no warning.
Another tyre which i use is the larsen, bit gripper than the crossmark but not as good a roller.
If you want some grip with good rolling go the larsen on front and crossmark on the rear, both available in UST or non ust.
Overall though it doesnt matter too much, you juts have to know what the tyre can do and what limits it has
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