Buying my first real MTB

Mountainbiking central

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby Mugglechops » Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:50 pm

I think a Giant Reign would suit you fine. I have had mine for about 3 years and 3000kms at roughly your weight if your still after a long travel dually.

If you go for a hardtail 29er, Trek warrant their bikes for up to 130kgs.

I also have a Superfly Al HT that has now done a bit over 1300kms with no issues.
User avatar
Mugglechops
 
Posts: 2362
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:51 pm
Location: Shoalhaven

by BNA » Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:54 pm

BNA
 

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby trailgumby » Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:54 pm

Well done on shifting the bike :lol:

Very observant - your brother was directing you to get the one he wanted, not necessarily the one best for you. Have to admit I was going "Oh gosh ... not ideal :| " but I didn't want to discourage you and I could see why with your weight you might have found some elements of the package attractive.

Anyway, starting over... :D

I'd still recommend a dually. The suspension not only soaks up the hits to your butt, but it absorbs some of the hits the wheels and frame have to deal with as well. Hardtails are very fast - which is why the sub-70kg wringing wet race whippets prefer them - but they are much harder on the lower back and legs as the ride gets longer. Not to mention the back wheel.

Something like the Merida you had in your initial list with 140mm travel would suit well. Beefy enough to handle you but not so heavy and squishy that you're going to hate it up hills. Well, you'll still hate it up hills, but it will be the hill more than the bike. :P

The Giant Reign (150mm travel) has moved more towards long, slack and low with teh current model... heading towards the more techy/DH end of all-mountain, but at 150mm travel, a good platform shock, and a sold frame and wheelset, yet still reasonably pedalable, it could work well. It won't be quite as quick up hills as my Rize, or an Anthem or Trance, but with the platform engaged you won't die in 200mm of marshmallow travel either, especially with a nice low rolling resistance rear tyre like a Larsen.

Unfortunately, anything with much less travel (lets say under 130mm) is going to be a lighter frame, and therefore much less robust. For example, my Cannondale Rize in race trim is down around 11kg plus or minus a few hundred grams, I would not recommend until you are under 100kg.

Check the fine print on the Trek warranty - may not extend to wheels.
"People have a right to their own opinions, but not their own facts. Evidence must be located, not created, and opinions not backed by evidence cannot be given much weight." -- James W Loewen

http://www.facebook.com/Drive2WorkDay
User avatar
trailgumby
 
Posts: 10305
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:30 pm
Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby Mugglechops » Sun Aug 12, 2012 8:06 pm

trailgumby wrote:Check the fine print on the Trek warranty - may not extend to wheels.


Good point TG.

I know Merida warrant wheels as I have had 2 replaced on my CX bike under warranty. On the Giant I have XT tubeless wheels and they have never needed touching.
User avatar
Mugglechops
 
Posts: 2362
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:51 pm
Location: Shoalhaven

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby cbalfe » Sun Aug 12, 2012 8:49 pm

I am not going to rush this choice at all as I dont want a repeat of last time >_<

The only problem is going to be local availability for different bikes, i don't know if there are going to be many of the models you guys mentioned available.

I dont mind the look of the X1 trance, which I can get locally - http://www.mcbains.com.au/index.php?q=node/1677

Bit I am going to take a few for a test ride, and I am not sure still if it is worth me spending the 2.5k now, or spend ~$900 on a decent hardtail 29er MTB which I could use on the road and on some small trails.

I have the day off tomorrow and I am going to go into a few stores and have a proper look around and hopefully test a few bikes out.

Ill let you guys know how I go, before I buy something this time >_>

Chris.
User avatar
cbalfe
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 7:17 pm
Location: Hobart, Tas

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby Magnum9 » Sun Aug 12, 2012 9:28 pm

I know you are limited with shops but try to find one willing to actually set a few bikes up properly for you and ride them. There is a big difference between riding one off the showroom floor and riding one setup for you.
Magnum9
 
Posts: 107
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:50 am
Location: Perth, WA

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby trailgumby » Mon Aug 13, 2012 9:03 pm

cbalfe wrote:I have the day off tomorrow and I am going to go into a few stores and have a proper look around and hopefully test a few bikes out.

<hint>... and leaving your brother at home this time </hint> ;) :lol:
"People have a right to their own opinions, but not their own facts. Evidence must be located, not created, and opinions not backed by evidence cannot be given much weight." -- James W Loewen

http://www.facebook.com/Drive2WorkDay
User avatar
trailgumby
 
Posts: 10305
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:30 pm
Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby cbalfe » Tue Aug 14, 2012 1:06 pm

Hey guys,

So I ended up buying.. only joking ;)

I had a chat with quite a few bike shop owners, discussed exactly what I would be using the bike for and what sort of options I have.

Basically, this bike will be used abour 80% for flat trails/general riding around, and about 20% for downhill tracks.

So What I think I am looking at in terms of saving a bit of money and something to make sure that I can actually ride it properly is a 2013 29er hardtail, as for my budget the componets on a ~$1500 hardtail will be alot better than the equivilant dualie.

That doesnt mean I am discounting getting a dualie this is just the advice I have been given so far and I will be exploring my options and riding some more bikes over the next week and weekend.

The 2 bikes I did like the look of were the Orbea Alma 29 H70 - $1400, and the Giant XTC 2013 29er 2.0 - ~$1400

They both do look really good, I did have a ride on an Alma 29 H30 ($2700 bike) Just to get an idea of the form factor and I did like it, but it was a small and i found it a little cramped.

I am waiting for the other bike shop to get the Giant models in so I can take a test ride, and when I am there I will also take a look at the Giant Trance X1 and give that a ride for a comparison.

Unfortunately I don't think I can ask the first bike shop i went to to order in an Orbea for me just to test ride as they are quite a small shop and I don't think they would order it unless I was going to buy it, and I cant commit without riding it.

Still a few choices to make but I am going to take my time with this one, I did have a ride of the Norco today, with a bit of uphill and some really nice downhill, I damn near died on the uphill but my god it was silky smooth on the downhill that's for sure.

Any advice about the aformetioned models would be great, I think that going for a hardtail at this point may be good and then eventually down the track (12-18months) I can put some slicks on it and use it for the road and get a dualie XC/All mountain bike.

Chris.
User avatar
cbalfe
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 7:17 pm
Location: Hobart, Tas

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby Mugglechops » Tue Aug 14, 2012 2:31 pm

cbalfe wrote: Any advice about the aformetioned models would be great, I think that going for a hardtail at this point may be good and then eventually down the track (12-18months) I can put some slicks on it and use it for the road and get a dualie XC/All mountain bike.


That's a great idea. You can never have enough bikes :D

If you can ride the Giant go for that, good warranty and good mix of parts for the price.
User avatar
Mugglechops
 
Posts: 2362
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:51 pm
Location: Shoalhaven

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby jemima » Sat Aug 18, 2012 12:31 pm

I had a look at the 2013 XTC 2 this morning. A great looking bike.

If you were on the mainland, I'd suggest secondhand. There's a 2012 XTC 0 (medium) on ebay going for $1200. Bargain if you're in that area.
jemima
 
Posts: 57
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 11:18 am
Location: Sunny Perth

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby cbalfe » Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:29 pm

Ok so I went back in over the weekend and I am still waiting for the new stock of the 2013 giant range.

I am now looking at the new Trance 2013 29er range just that they seem more versatile (I realise I am equivocating but I wont make a decision without riding one).

The one in particular I am looking at is this http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-au/bik ... 031/57333/

$1899 and I could get it for $1799, the only thing that is concerning for me is the 2x10 gearing. Is this something that is going to be an issue do you think?

as far as I am aware the 11x36 gear system on the back with 24x38 on the front is pretty low gearing at the bottom end, so I am just wondering if anyone with experience on 2x10 can let me know how it is like.

For some perspective I have been riding on a 3x7 for a while which from looking it up has a 12-32 on the back with 48/38/28 on the front. So is my understanding correct in saying that this at the bottom end would be lower geared than my old bike? 36->24

Anyone have experience on 2x10? I would love to hear some feedback about them, apparently this is where most of the gearings are headed due to less need to change the front gears.

Chris.
User avatar
cbalfe
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 7:17 pm
Location: Hobart, Tas

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby bychosis » Tue Aug 21, 2012 3:06 pm

Nothing wrong with 2x10. The range from high to low will probably be wider than your current 3x7. 3x10 IMO is overkill, but I'm happily riding 1x9. You can compare the drive ratios by dividing the front chainring size by the rear sprocket size. ie 24/36=0.67, 28/32=0.875, but don't forget that a 29er has bigger wheels and therefore different final drive to 26".

If you are enjoying your off rd riding then I'd aim for a trance or similar. A 'trail' bike. A bike that is happy to pedal up hills and descend reasonable stuff and will keep you comfortable on a long ride. If its got a lock out rear shock even better for pedalling on the flats.
bychosis (bahy-koh-sis): A mental disorder of delusions indicating impaired contact with a reality of no bicycles.
User avatar
bychosis
 
Posts: 2280
Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 12:10 pm
Location: Lake Macquarie

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby cbalfe » Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:10 pm

bychosis wrote:Nothing wrong with 2x10. The range from high to low will probably be wider than your current 3x7. 3x10 IMO is overkill, but I'm happily riding 1x9. You can compare the drive ratios by dividing the front chainring size by the rear sprocket size. ie 24/36=0.67, 28/32=0.875, but don't forget that a 29er has bigger wheels and therefore different final drive to 26".

If you are enjoying your off rd riding then I'd aim for a trance or similar. A 'trail' bike. A bike that is happy to pedal up hills and descend reasonable stuff and will keep you comfortable on a long ride. If its got a lock out rear shock even better for pedalling on the flats.


Thanks for that, by chance do you know anywhere with the formula for comparing 29er gearing to 26er gearing for drive ratios? I could probably sit down and work it out but if it is around somewhere that would be cool.

And yeah I do like the idea of the Trance being an all rounder, just out of interest do you think it would be worth getting the Trance 29er 1 over the 2? it is about $650 difference and currently I am thinking not but I really don't know if the components are worth the extra money, I could always upgrade the components on the 2 later hrmm...

here are the 2 for comparison:
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-au/bik ... 031/57333/
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-au/bik ... 031/57332/

Chris.
User avatar
cbalfe
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 7:17 pm
Location: Hobart, Tas

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby JustJames » Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:53 pm

The "1" has a remote seat post. which the "2" doesn't have. Without reading the detail on the specs, it's a safe bet that everything on the "1" is a step up from the "2".

For me, trivial as it may seem, if I were hemming and hawing between the 2, the god-awful paint scheme on the "2" would make me look closer at the "1", which by contrast has a really nice colour scheme.

(Parts of this point contain opinion.)
My bike blog. Long on rumination, rambling and opinion. Why let facts ruin everything?

http://pedallingcharm.wordpress.com/
User avatar
JustJames
 
Posts: 501
Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2011 12:50 am

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby trailgumby » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:25 pm

Some early feedback on the Trance X1 29r here: http://nobmob.com/node/37357

I do like the colour scheme. Short chainstays for more responsive cornering and an easier to lift front end.

Image
"People have a right to their own opinions, but not their own facts. Evidence must be located, not created, and opinions not backed by evidence cannot be given much weight." -- James W Loewen

http://www.facebook.com/Drive2WorkDay
User avatar
trailgumby
 
Posts: 10305
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:30 pm
Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby trailgumby » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:37 pm

Re: 2x10 vesus 3x10, a lot of guys I ride with REALLY don't like the 2x10 because the gap between big and small ring is too great.

Next ratio on 3x9 and 3x10 when you change the front ring is usually up one ring, down one back cog or vice versa. Easy to manage.

On 2x10, it's up 1 ring and down 3 cogs or vice versa. If you need to go down *more* (say as the track transitions from a steep fast descent to a pinch climb) you're working like a one-armed paper hanger. Besides sounding horrible as you crunch your way through the gears, it places a lot of stress on the chain. You can often find you stall and have to walk because your ability to stomp your way out of trouble is limited and you can't find that low gear fast enough.

Maybe you get better at that with practice and learning to anticipate better, but a lot of us older riders and mid-fielders are sticking with (or channging to) a triple up front.

It also depends on the terrain. 2x10 or even 1x10 is fine on some trails in our locality, but for others ... :lol:
"People have a right to their own opinions, but not their own facts. Evidence must be located, not created, and opinions not backed by evidence cannot be given much weight." -- James W Loewen

http://www.facebook.com/Drive2WorkDay
User avatar
trailgumby
 
Posts: 10305
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:30 pm
Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby bychosis » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:23 pm

Interesting comments on 2x10, wasn't aware of that.

After having 1x9 I would recommend considering a 1x10 setup. The simplicity of one shifter is great, but you will lose a low gear or three depending on your setup and also a high gear or two. I lost one low and two high in my switch from 3x9 to 1x9 because I went from an 11-28 cassette to an 11-32 (on a 32tooth chainring, same as middle). Lost the granny ring, but gained a couple of bigger cogs. A little hardening up went along with that, but not much. I mostly used the granny/low gear because I could, not because I had to. Now I ride with 11-28 for general riding and 11-34 for enduro events so I've got a couple of lower gears for tired legs.

If I was buying new I'd go for 1x10 for a slightly wider range cassette, I havent seen 11-36 in 1x9, but its a standard 1x10.
bychosis (bahy-koh-sis): A mental disorder of delusions indicating impaired contact with a reality of no bicycles.
User avatar
bychosis
 
Posts: 2280
Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 12:10 pm
Location: Lake Macquarie

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby trailgumby » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:45 pm

Remember the OP is starting out from a position of needing/wanting to lose quite a bit of weight.

I'd expect the power-to-weight won't be there for a while yet to be able to sustain 1xanything.

Give it time, though :)
"People have a right to their own opinions, but not their own facts. Evidence must be located, not created, and opinions not backed by evidence cannot be given much weight." -- James W Loewen

http://www.facebook.com/Drive2WorkDay
User avatar
trailgumby
 
Posts: 10305
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:30 pm
Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby Mugglechops » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:50 pm

I went 3x10 on my 29er HT but off road I mostly just use the middle ring so I am thinking about 2x10. But I did spend 4 years riding SS off road.

I am running 2x9 on my Reign with 22-32 and an 11-34 cassette.

For the extra $650 I would go the higher level trance as the seatpost alone is $350. And once you use a dropper post you will love it.
User avatar
Mugglechops
 
Posts: 2362
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:51 pm
Location: Shoalhaven

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby trailgumby » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:57 pm

Mugglechops wrote:I went 3x10 on my 29er HT but off road I mostly just use the middle ring so I am thinking about 2x10. But I did spend 4 years riding SS off road.

I am running 2x9 on my Reign with 22-32 and an 11-34 cassette.

For the extra $650 I would go the higher level trance as the seatpost alone is $350. And once you use a dropper post you will love it.

The gaps between rings on your setup are much lower - 10 teeth as opposed to 14.

I generally only use the big ring on fast fire road descents, and that mainly to stop chain slap through the rough stuff and when landing the jumps off the water bars. So I reckon 22/32 would be practical for most trail riding with the chain shortened accordingly.

Agree the comments re: the dropper post. I don't have one yet, but my mates who do aren't going back to normal posts any time soon :lol:
"People have a right to their own opinions, but not their own facts. Evidence must be located, not created, and opinions not backed by evidence cannot be given much weight." -- James W Loewen

http://www.facebook.com/Drive2WorkDay
User avatar
trailgumby
 
Posts: 10305
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:30 pm
Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby cbalfe » Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:34 pm

Mugglechops wrote:For the extra $650 I would go the higher level trance as the seatpost alone is $350. And once you use a dropper post you will love it.


Pardon my ignorance but what are the benefits of a dropper post, is this like extra suspension on the seat itself?
User avatar
cbalfe
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 7:17 pm
Location: Hobart, Tas

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby Mulger bill » Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:03 pm

No it isn't.

Having the saddle at optimum height for pedaling is not the best for negotiating steep descents and roll ins, you want to get your weight as low and far back as possible. Dropping the post all the way makes it a lot easier to get low and back. Dropping it a little gets it out of your way when you're in the tight and twisty.
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
User avatar
Mulger bill
Super Mod
Super Mod
 
Posts: 25799
Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 2:41 pm
Location: Sunbury Vic

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby trailgumby » Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:44 am

Sorry. Assumed knowledge - my bad. :oops: What he said ^^^^^^
"People have a right to their own opinions, but not their own facts. Evidence must be located, not created, and opinions not backed by evidence cannot be given much weight." -- James W Loewen

http://www.facebook.com/Drive2WorkDay
User avatar
trailgumby
 
Posts: 10305
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:30 pm
Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby Shifter » Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:30 pm

cbalfe wrote:the only thing that is concerning for me is the 2x10 gearing. Is this something that is going to be an issue do you think?

as far as I am aware the 11x36 gear system on the back with 24x38 on the front is pretty low gearing at the bottom end, so I am just wondering if anyone with experience on 2x10 can let me know how it is like.

I ride 26/38 up front with the same rear - stock '12 Trance X0 drive train. For simplicity I tend not to shift front all that often, but I find there's still a decent ratio jump. This is surprisingly most annoying when changing down to go uphill because the cadence change is weird. I'm considering a change to 1x10 with a 30 or 32 tooth front.
2012 Giant Trance X0
2011 GT Zaskar Carbon
2010 Malvern Star Oppy A4
Shifter
 
Posts: 117
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 5:23 pm
Location: Perth, WA

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby Mulger bill » Wed Aug 22, 2012 11:58 pm

Shifter wrote:I'm considering a change to 1x10 with a 30 or 32 tooth front.

I could prolly get away with this as I spend the bulk of me time in the mid ring but I'm sticking with the triple for two reasons:
1, as Gumby said earlier, chucking her into the big dog on the rough stuff reduces chainslap dramatically.
2, the granny lets me keep rolling as I stuff me lungs back into me chest after gutbuster pinches. I climb like Fronk descends :oops:
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
User avatar
Mulger bill
Super Mod
Super Mod
 
Posts: 25799
Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 2:41 pm
Location: Sunbury Vic

Re: Buying my first real MTB

Postby Sharkey » Thu Aug 23, 2012 1:14 pm

cbalfe wrote:..... by chance do you know anywhere with the formula for comparing 29er gearing to 26er gearing for drive ratios? I could probably sit down and work it out but if it is around somewhere that would be cool.

Chris.


Here is a gear calculator that should do what you want - Sheldon Brown's Gear Calculator

I personally don't think 2x10 has enough top end gearing, but then I do some fast fire trails and ride on the road a bit to get to the trails. I run 26" with 3x9. 26/36/48 on the front and 11-32 on the back. 48-11 is good for 60+ kmh. I ride with a guy who has a 29er with standard 3x9 gearing and his top gear, 44-11 with 29" wheel, is about the same or slightly higher than my 48-11 on a 26" wheel.

For your first real bike I think you will get used to 2x10 and then see what rides you do, how fit you are and then decide whether you need different gearing.
Sharkey
 
Posts: 87
Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2012 3:32 pm

PreviousNext

Return to MTB

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: macca33



Popular Bike Shops
Torpedo 7 Torpedo7 AU
Ground Effect Ground Effect NZ
Chain Reaction Cycles CRC UK
Wiggle Wiggle UK
Ebay Ebay AU

“Bicycles BNA Twitter
“Bicycles BNA Facebook
“Google+ BNA Google+
“Bicycles BNA Newsletter

> FREE BNA Stickers
> BNA Cycling Kit