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How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 5:12 pm
by Comedian
I've got a giant Anthem x0 29er with rox shocks. Thing is, when the dial is turned to locked out there is still quite some movement. The dealer says this is normal - but it's annoying as it means I can't stand to climb - the bike bounces way too much.

Any thoughts on this?

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 6:22 pm
by A_P
My rebas and fox are fairly firm when locked out, maybe 15mm of travel at most.
The rebas have an adjustable flood gate so the forks still compress under impact whist locked out. Wound right out the flood gate operates under a fairly small amount of force.
All the way in they are pretty rock solid.
Also, does the lock out dial hit the stanchion when you turn it to the fully locked out position?
Try taking the lockout dial off and turning it further to the off position, it should sit on a hexagonal spline of sorts.
hope this helps.
Aaron

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 7:22 pm
by Gordo
should be pretty firm.u always get a little movement but you really have to push on it to get it to move significantly or noticably, atleast with my fox fork. I've had to get two forks fixed coz the lockout didnt work. it took a little effort to get the message through that things werent right. I've noticed some bike stores can be a little dismissive when you come back and say something is wrong. Their first thoughts are that your just doing things wrong or you dont know jack. take it to another shop and get a second opinion perhaps

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 11:12 pm
by Mulger bill
Sure you're running the correct spring rate for your weight Comic? Sounds like you need more air or a beefier coil depending on what you have.

The Poploc remote on my Recon Gold does a great job, very little movement.

Shaun

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 7:14 am
by bychosis
Comedian wrote:but it's annoying as it means I can't stand to climb - the bike bounces way too much.

Any thoughts on this?


You can still stand to climb just that MTB is different to road riding, expect some bounce and try to adapt your technique to minimize it. I rode a setup without lockut for years and learned to live with it, recently got a fork with lockout and use it sometimes and do notice the difference. I only bother to lockout when there is a lot of climbing to do because I often forget to unlock before descending. My forks rock shox forks lock fairly well, but they do activate when I give them a really good push.

However altering your setup as above might help solve some of the issue. If you really can't live with it - time for rigid forks.

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:13 am
by toolonglegs
The heavier you are the less locked out you will be. More so on the rear though, the reason I am not keen on full suspension.

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 10:20 am
by JustJames
I only use the lockout on my Scott Spark when I'm on very smooth surfaces.

Climbing, the "cost" of the suspension bob is more than made up for by the "gain" of the added traction. I learnt this after climbing locked out up a steep, bumpy climb while a friend rode away from me on his Cannondale Scalpel with no lockout (or none engaged anyway). The next time, I left the bounces switched on, and went much better.

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 3:35 pm
by bychosis
I made the assumption the OP was about forks. My rear shock has lockout too, as above only use it on the road. Doesn't really make that much difference off the road, the losses I get from leaning down to engage/release (no remote) are more than the suspension loss.

Again, comes down to pedalling technique, smooth pedalling reduces suspension bob.

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 4:33 pm
by Comedian
Yes it's definitely the rear that is the main problem. It's totally fine off road, and acceptable on road as long as I'm seated.

It's just if I want to stand to attack a hill the whole bike lurches... So much I end ip sitting down.

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 5:15 pm
by m@
I have the same bike; sounds like something's not quite right to me... With propedal engaged, I don't get much movement at all.

What pressure are you running?

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 6:17 pm
by Comedian
m@ wrote:I have the same bike; sounds like something's not quite right to me... With propedal engaged, I don't get much movement at all.

What pressure are you running?

190 back, about 100 front. I'm probably 78kg dressed ready to roll.

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:34 pm
by antipodean
I reckon you need 115-120 in the front.

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 9:36 am
by Mulger bill
Comedian wrote:Yes it's definitely the rear that is the main problem. It's totally fine off road, and acceptable on road as long as I'm seated.

It's just if I want to stand to attack a hill the whole bike lurches... So much I end ip sitting down.

Don't try to mash a dually uphill, you gotta spin for best efficiency.
Still remember the first dually I rode back in the day. Mongoose VRS. Anything but the smoothest of spin felt like being aboard a rocking horse in a vat of cold honey. Turned me off duallies for years.

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 9:22 am
by silentbutdeadly
That'd be the Monarch rear shock, eh? I'd go with a little more air (less sag) and if you can adjust the rebound speed to go a bit faster you might get some improvement. Bear in mind that any changes wil make the thing a little less progressive on the bumps going the other way. Swings and roundabouts. You may also find that if you alter your climbing technique to minimise throwing your weight around...

Truth be told the Anthem isn't the greatest climber but I've got one anyway though mine has the Fox RP23 with the propedal and no lockout. And there's not much in the way of hills where I live. Have been tempted by the new CTD versions but the RP23 still works...

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:10 am
by Kenzo
If you have the sag set at the right spots, then you probably need to slow your rebound.

For what it's worth - my 26" Anthem running all Fox suspension is fantastic - contrary to SBD's point of view it is a great climber.

Also - I have a strong dislike of Rock Shox based on the failings of the lockout in a Reba SL and subsequent expense in trying to get it right. I will never buy one of their forks again - and the flow on is I won't get any of their rear shocks either.

EDIT: I do however have a nice Beanie with their logo on it...

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 8:47 am
by Comedian
Kenzo wrote:If you have the sag set at the right spots, then you probably need to slow your rebound.

For what it's worth - my 26" Anthem running all Fox suspension is fantastic - contrary to SBD's point of view it is a great climber.

Also - I have a strong dislike of Rock Shox based on the failings of the lockout in a Reba SL and subsequent expense in trying to get it right. I will never buy one of their forks again - and the flow on is I won't get any of their rear shocks either.

EDIT: I do however have a nice Beanie with their logo on it...

I've seen Fox shock equipped bikes be far more rigid when locked out.

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 9:50 am
by Marty Moose
What's the correct range of loaded sag on a mtb ??

Sent from my MB526 using Tapatalk 2

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 9:55 am
by Mulger bill
Typically about 10-15% of available travel for XC and AM bikes, DHers can go 25% or more.

Re: How locked out is locked out?

Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:28 pm
by Kenzo
Comedian wrote:
Kenzo wrote:If you have the sag set at the right spots, then you probably need to slow your rebound.

For what it's worth - my 26" Anthem running all Fox suspension is fantastic - contrary to SBD's point of view it is a great climber.

Also - I have a strong dislike of Rock Shox based on the failings of the lockout in a Reba SL and subsequent expense in trying to get it right. I will never buy one of their forks again - and the flow on is I won't get any of their rear shocks either.

EDIT: I do however have a nice Beanie with their logo on it...

I've seen Fox shock equipped bikes be far more rigid when locked out.


Exactly - My Fox forks have never failed me like the Rock Shox have.

My rear shock is a Fox Float RP2.
Propedal and open settings only.
I ride with the suspension open - on and off road. This said when riding the MTB I tend not to stand and pedal unless attacking a trail.
If I were to stand and attack an uphill with Propedal on, I'm sure I will get some bouncing.