TCR Bolt Schematic

[the green machine]

G'day all,

Short of pulling out each bolt, has anyone previously been able to obtain a bolt schematic for a 2013 Giant TCR 3, so the steel bolts can be replaced with Ti or Alu.

Why you ask?

As ridiculous as it may seem to some, I'm trying to shed some weight from my TCR without sacrificing structural integrity.

At the moment I have her down to 7.2kgs while running Di2 Ultegra 6800, DA carbon pedals, DA 12-27 cassette, DA C24 wheels, San Marco carbon saddle. (I'm waiting for my new Powercordz and Nokon housing to arrive)

I realise that I could simply go to a mech group set to shed some grams, but those who have Di2, know how good it is. So that's the only place which isn't being considered.

Cheers in advance.

[Dirty32]

Mind if I ask what size frame you are riding?
What colour is the bike?

What Brakes are you running?
Seatpost, bars, stem, bartape etc?

Might be other ways of dropping the weight without resorting to having to replace every single bolt.

[mitchy_]

you wont save much with Ti/Alu bolts... that said, there aren't many on the frame itself anyway. most are on the stem, derailleur, seat post clamp, etc. which can vary depending on brand and model.
derailleurs have kits available but as someone who has replaced all the bolts with Ti, i'd be measuring the rest regardless. stems can vary in the head type and thread length (narrow or tapered head.. then from ~12-20mm long), seat post clamp bolts vary in size and length (M5/M6)

[the green machine]

Thanks lads for the input and to clarify my ride, I'm on a (Small) 2013 TCR Advanced SL3 kitted out as fol:

Giant carbon SLR integrated bars/stem wrapped with Lizardskins tape which is held in place with 2 x Ti bolts and Al top cap/bolt;
Full Ultegra Di2 - Mid Compact 6800 (I did have DA 7900 53/39, but ditched it for the middie);
DA - carbon pedals;
- 12/27 cassette;
- WH9000 C24 wheels and mounted with latex tubes on Conti GP II's;
- chain;
Bontrager RXXL carbon bindons with Al bolts;
San Marco carbon Concor saddle on a ISP.

As mentioned before, I'm waiting for the Nokon brake housing and Powercordz to arrive. Hopefully I can save some weight by stripping out the steel cables.

By changing the bolts, I'm assuming that's more than likely the only place left to be razored without spending a months salary. LOL

[Duck!]

Nokon cables are crap - more drag than Priscilla Queen of the Desert.

[the green machine]

Nokon cables are crap - more drag than Priscilla Queen of the Desert.

Hence the reason of trying the Powercordz!

[Dirty32]

Im assuming that the brakes are also Ultegra 6800 (as part of the groupset, but you didnt mention specifically)?

All the stuff you are running seems pretty light (and pretty decent spec), so I wouldnt think you've got a hell of a lot more scope for massive weight reductions without pretty deep pockets.

The only other suggestion I have is to keep an eye out for a higher spec TCR frame in the correct size (or similar frame from any other manufacturer, offering similar geo - you'll get better carbon layup using a higher grade composite), but that's not really a cheap option, either. I dont know exactly how much weight you'd save moving from an SL3 to an SL0 say (maybe nothing - difference could be in the spec of groupset, rather than any difference in the frame). Having said that, with the kit you are currently running, you'd have a pretty nice bike regardless!

[the green machine]

Cheers Dirty...I appreciate the feedback. Agreed point in relation to the models. To the best of my knowledge, the only difference between a 3 & a 0 is the groupset.

One day soon, I'll consider grabbing a Propel. Hopefully that will satisfy my lean tendencies.

Until then it seems I'm at the end of the road.

[mitchy_]

Cheers Dirty...I appreciate the feedback. Agreed point in relation to the models. To the best of my knowledge, the only difference between a 3 & a 0 is the groupset.

One day soon, I'll consider grabbing a Propel. Hopefully that will satisfy my lean tendencies.

Until then it seems I'm at the end of the road.

a comparable Defy Advanced will be lighter than a Propel. the Propel sacrifices weight for better aero.

[Duck!]

Cheers Dirty...I appreciate the feedback. Agreed point in relation to the models. To the best of my knowledge, the only difference between a 3 & a 0 is the groupset.

One day soon, I'll consider grabbing a Propel. Hopefully that will satisfy my lean tendencies.

Until then it seems I'm at the end of the road.

Yes, the frames are the same. As Mitchy said, avoid the Propel if it's absence of weight you're after - aero profiling & stiffness under power requires more material to achieve, resulting in a comparitive porker. The Defy Adv. SL is Giant's lightest road frame, just depends if you're willing to trade off some aggro in the geometry to satisfy your weight weeny-ism.

[KGB]

Try posting on the weight weenies forum. On a standard bike, it's not hard to save 100-150g with some "bolt tuning". Not sure how much you'll save if you've already done stem etc but go for it anyway.
Ti for anything vital, Al for anything less likely to result in death if it fails!

I'm surprised nobody has posted the standard response to weight weenie style questions: take a dump before the ride, lose some weight on your body first, it won't make any difference, blah blah blah. BOOO!

Post back with any results!

[mitchy_]

Try posting on the weight weenies forum. On a standard bike, it's not hard to save 100-150g with some "bolt tuning". Not sure how much you'll save if you've already done stem etc but go for it anyway.
Ti for anything vital, Al for anything less likely to result in death if it fails!

I'm surprised nobody has posted the standard response to weight weenie style questions: take a dump before the ride, lose some weight on your body first, it won't make any difference, blah blah blah. BOOO!

Post back with any results!

i dont think there are even 100-150g worth of bolts on a bike...

[the green machine]

[/quote]i dont think there are even 100-150g worth of bolts on a bike... [/quote]

I reckon you'd be right too! LMAO

[the green machine]

Update for anyone with a remote interest in my obsessive Jenny Craig diet for the green machine in the bolt replacement project.

To date, all bolts were considered in a case by case basis. However things went a bit sideways with only the rear derailleur bolt being done after all. The front and rear brake main bolt is yet to be undertaken, but still on the cards.

The most significant and surprising was replacing 99% of all cable housing with a Nokon housing system. The only place of difficulty was the rear derailleur as it made shifting sloppy. I also replaced the brake cables with Powercordz. A great upgrade IMO.

Getting back to the theme of the thread though, has anyone got some tips on changing the main bolts on the brakes?

So far I've managed to shed two hundred grams with the bolts and cabling.

And btw there maybe naysayers about the project, which is fine with me. But at the end of the day I'm enjoying the project.