Giant Defy Advanced Pro 0

[Duck!]

A little tip that Duck! gave me on chain length. Size it based on the small/small combination instead of large/large. That way, your chain is the correct length for the capacity of your rear derailleur, regardless of what cassette you throw on it. This is very handy if you have multiple wheelsets with different cassettes, or you are like me and have a climbing cassette and a racing cassette that I swap between.

If you have the chain running through your derailer when sizing it yes, could not agree more, so long as you only apply enough tension for the chain not to rub on the cage as it passes back under, this - especially when running a short (SS) cage and larger cogs and chain rings. Otherwise no.
I've always used the method of no derailer big ring to big cog - plus one inch(one full link set) Always seems to work for me.

That's exactly how it works. If I know it's getting marginal on system capacity I'll mark the pin I intend to cut at, and check on the big/big combo, leaving the chain through the derailleur just to be sure. This step is more important on rear-suspension MTBs where the movement of the rear linkage increases the effective chainstay length, so that needs taking into account.

[Gandalf]

On the subject of gearing on my Pro 0. Was 34-50 and 11-28 but got sick of never using the 34 so converted to 36 and
was wondering wether anyone has gone full pro compact with a 52 big ring successfully??

[Duck!]

You'll have better success changing the big ring to 52T because it's designed specifically to pair with the 36, than trying to make the 36 work with the 50, for which it's not designed. Someone here did try 50/36 a while ago, and it didn't work, especially downshifting; the shaping of the inner face of the big ring doesn't align properly with the bigger small ring, so the chain is usually left hanging between rings.

[Gandalf]

Thanks for the advice, but I already have a 36t conversion on the front fitted by LBS and works fine will have
to have a chat to him about the 52t would be better for me coming from a 39-53 combo on last bike.

[Grgic]

Anyone able to advise what's the Shimano Dura-Ace CN-HG901-11 Sil-Tec 116L 11sp Chain like as opposed to the Dura-Ace HG900 or the Ultegra 6800?

[Duck!]

I've noticed the change in number from HG900 to 901 (also 700-701 & 600-601 at the lower levels), but no idea what the actual difference is. 6800 is a 1st-generation 11-sp. chain, discontinued for over a year now. The difference between the 1st-gen 9000/6800 and the second-gen HG900/700/600 is that the 1st-gen was road-specific, non-direction-specific, symmetrical link shaping, while the 2nd-gen chains are for road & MTB, directional, asymmetric chains. The difference between each level is in the type and extent of the corrosion-resistant coating. HG701 is the direct replacement for CN-6800.

[softy]

On the subject of gearing on my Pro 0. Was 34-50 and 11-28 but got sick of never using the 34 so converted to 36 and
was wondering wether anyone has gone full pro compact with a 52 big ring successfully??

Why didn't you just change the rear cassette to a 11 - 25?
This would of give you close steps between gears.

may i also suggest to lift your cadence. I run a compact with a 11-25, in flat Perth and use the small front ring often. I i was to head for the hills the cassette would get changed out to a 12 - 29.