Popular Bike Shops
Join the Cycling Forums on Strava
Australian Cycling Forums on Strava
Latest Reviews and Articles
Will your next bike be Intelligent? ABS and Smart Bike Tech
Vitus Vitesse EVO Disc Review – Speed Machine indeed!
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2017 9:31 am
I've recently bought my first bike, a Trek Crossrip Elite, which although marketed as a Cyclocross bike, is probably more accurately described as a "rugged road-bike / commuter with some off-road capability".
I attempted to follow a local single-track route shown on Google Maps as a cycle path, but ended up abandoning the route because it had a lot more rocks, tree roots and other obstacles than I felt comfortable with on this bike.
My Trek has 700x32mm Bontrager HD5 tyres with some grip, but not the knobbly MTB type. It also seems to have quite high tyre pressures - I'm not sure exactly how much because I don't yet have a floor pump with a gauge, but the tyres are rated at 80psi - quite high for offroad use I think.
I found the ride pretty bumpy over uneven terrain (with twigs, gravel etc.), although it's bearable if I get out of the saddle and don't go too fast.
So my question is whether the Trek Crossrip is not really a Cyclocross bike capable of serious offroad use, and whether I would be better off keeping it as a rugged road-bike that is OK of relatively smooth off-road tracks or grass?
My current feeling is that if I want to pursue more serious off-road pursuits with a drop-bar bike, that I will eventually need to upgrade to a more serious dedicated Cyclocross bike, that has the spec to take more punishment.
- Posts: 10125
- Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 2:08 pm
- Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Certainly you can ride them on gravel roads, fire trails and smooth single track, but a bike on 32mm tyres is never going to be comfortable on the trail conditions you described - for that you need an MTB.
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2014 2:27 pm
I'm 70kg, ride fairly 'light' in that I'd lift the rear wheel over square edges. I'd get away with 35-40 psi in those tyres. The average would probably be 50psi.
That's not going to change a heap for rough trails though. It's still a rigid bike with a low air volume tyre. Lowering the pressure will make riding smooth unsealed trails nicer. But rough trails will still be horrible and you'll probably puncture lots. It's not a mountain bike.
- Posts: 3833
- Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:01 pm
Second, work out how big a tyre you can fit. (About45mm w/out fenders, if the reviews are to be believed)
Third, decide if you want to do "serious off-road pursuits" or ride a "serious dedicated Cyclocross bike"
as such a bike will be designed for the UCI's 33mm width limit.
Then you can start to make serious decisions: a set of 45mm tyres should allow 30psi (or lower with ghetto tubeless) . A whole different ball game to 32mm (AT) 80psi. And for not much money
Ultimately, some forms of "serious off road" do mean suspension and flat bars.
"People are worthy of respect, ideas are not." Peter Ellerton, UQ
- Posts: 580
- Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2012 5:13 pm
Forestry roads = rally cars = cyclocross
serious off-road = 4WD = MTB
rock steps, mud holes, etc = Rock crawlers = trials bike
Depends on what you mean by "serious off-road". There are many varieties. Bikes do have advantages over cars - lighter so you can hop, carry or simply push and they are narrower .. so they can get to places where cars cannot go.
At 70psi I don't get enough traction to climb dirt hills on my MTB ... hills = 20% grade of more. Paved hills are no trouble at even higher pressures.
- Posts: 13101
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:30 pm
- Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney
I've seen a few cross bikes on our local "beginner friendly" fire trails at Terrey Hills, but unless they are experienced skilled riders deliberately looking for more of a challenge, we tend to leave them behind fairly quickly.
I was initially quite surprised by how quickly, but after riding 93 or so kilometres at the Mont 24 with essentially a rigid fork I figured it it out. I needed physio on my wrists and shoulders afterwards.
Now, that's not to say it can't be done. You just need to run the biggest tyres your frame will safely fit, convert to tubeless and run lower pressures as has been suggested above. Then you need to learn how to unweight and float your bike over the tree roots and rocks.
Smoother dirt and gravel roads suitable for normal 2WD passenger cars, and groomed trails are more suited to this style of bike, though.
- Posts: 154
- Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2016 5:43 pm
- General Australian Cycling Topics
- Info / announcements
- Buying a bike / parts
- General Cycling Discussion
- The Bike Shed
- Cycling Health
- Cycling Safety and Advocacy
- Women's Cycling
- Bike & Gear Reviews
- Cycling Trade
- Stolen Bikes
- Bicycle FAQs
- Serious Biking
- Audax / Randonneuring
- Retro biking
- Fixed Gear/ Single Speed
- Electric Bicycles
- Dragsters / Lowriders / Cruisers
- Children's Bikes
- Road Racing
- Road Biking
- Time Trial
- International and National Tours and Events
- Cycle Touring
- Touring Australia
- Touring Overseas
- Touring Bikes and Equipment
- Western Australia
- New South Wales
- South Australia
- Northern Territory
- Country & Regional
- The Market Place
- Member to Member Bike and Gear Sales
- Want to Buy, Group Buy, Swap
- My Bikes or Gear Elsewhere
- Cycling Brands
- Malvern Star
- Custom Builders
- Generic Carbon
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users