Re: Vivente Randonneur
Posted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 6:18 pm
I test rode one today... <3
Apparently some '12 models are clearing for ~1200 clams.
Apparently some '12 models are clearing for ~1200 clams.
BNA - For the Australian Cycling Community
http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/
Looking for a touring bike with a Rohloff hub and drop bars. Been looking online at the Tout Terrain but that has the flat bar.Posted May 29th 2013
Three of us on three models of VWR are ready to depart for Kununurra to ride the Gibb River Road. 700km of dirt to Derby through the Kimberley. One of the bikes will be testing the new Rohloff set-up. This bike has Nitto drop bars, a Gilles Berthoud shift lever, 44-16 gearing and dual disc BB7 brakes. Two of the bikes have 40C Marathon rear tyres and 35C fronts.
Only what is on that page. I suggest you email Noel McFarlane at Vivente for information. See their contact page.the_real_jimbob wrote:http://www.viventebikes.com/main/page_t ... sting.html
Looking for a touring bike with a Rohloff hub and drop bars. Been looking online at the Tout Terrain but that has the flat bar.Posted May 29th 2013
Three of us on three models of VWR are ready to depart for Kununurra to ride the Gibb River Road. 700km of dirt to Derby through the Kimberley. One of the bikes will be testing the new Rohloff set-up. This bike has Nitto drop bars, a Gilles Berthoud shift lever, 44-16 gearing and dual disc BB7 brakes. Two of the bikes have 40C Marathon rear tyres and 35C fronts.
This setup seems exactly what I want.
Anyone heard any news about this?
44/16? for 700c?the_real_jimbob wrote:http://www.viventebikes.com/main/page_t ... sting.html
Looking for a touring bike with a Rohloff hub and drop bars. Been looking online at the Tout Terrain but that has the flat bar.Posted May 29th 2013
Three of us on three models of VWR are ready to depart for Kununurra to ride the Gibb River Road. 700km of dirt to Derby through the Kimberley. One of the bikes will be testing the new Rohloff set-up. This bike has Nitto drop bars, a Gilles Berthoud shift lever, 44-16 gearing and dual disc BB7 brakes. Two of the bikes have 40C Marathon rear tyres and 35C fronts.
This setup seems exactly what I want.
Anyone heard any news about this?
rifraf wrote:44/16? for 700c?the_real_jimbob wrote:http://www.viventebikes.com/main/page_t ... sting.html
Looking for a touring bike with a Rohloff hub and drop bars. Been looking online at the Tout Terrain but that has the flat bar.Posted May 29th 2013
Three of us on three models of VWR are ready to depart for Kununurra to ride the Gibb River Road. 700km of dirt to Derby through the Kimberley. One of the bikes will be testing the new Rohloff set-up. This bike has Nitto drop bars, a Gilles Berthoud shift lever, 44-16 gearing and dual disc BB7 brakes. Two of the bikes have 40C Marathon rear tyres and 35C fronts.
This setup seems exactly what I want.
Anyone heard any news about this?
I cant help feeling Vivente seem to make their line up overgeared for loaded touring.
Probably just me but I dont like walking up hills and road rises and there always seems to be no shortage in the areas where I've ever lived.
I'll stick with 34/16 myself
To be clear, a minor and easily fixed niggle on what appears to be a great package, and one I've considered myself.
"Holy handlebar rise batman"Kaete wrote:http://kaete.files.wordpress.com/2009/0 ... 121205.jpg .
Hello octagonal man. As it happens, the 9 speed transmission was only half worn out, so I have stored it in the boxes that the 8 speed stuff came in, and can provide the numbers. The chain and cassette are just standard shimano -- CN-HG70 and CS-HG41-8, respectively. Not expensive. I have bar end shifters (and love them) -- if you are running sti's, this experiment might be prohibitively expensive. The 8 speed shimano selectors are the same series as the ones they replaced -- SL-RS50-8. They were marked at $140, but Abbotsford Cycles gave me a terrific discount provided they could keep a couple of bits I apparently didn't need. I'm not sure that they are still in production.octagonalman wrote:I've been a little disappointed having done my first tour on a 24 speed Kona Dew that I had tweaked and then moving to a 2013 VWR. My observations are similar regarding the 9 speed at the back and disc brakes. I have decided not to try clean out the brakes more because it can make my presence known to pedestrians on shared paths without having to touch my bell. I ended up buying a wider bottom bracket (122.5mm up from 113mm) to try move the chainline out so I wouldn't get rubbing at both ends of the gear spectrum. Now I have noticed that the combination of the Sugino crank shape and chainline mean that noise in 3x9 is pretty much unavoidable. I've even painted the outside of the derailleur cage to see whether it is struck by the crankarm. I think my 46t chainring is also showing noticeable wear!
Australiantourer, do you mind sharing the model names of the 8 speed parts you ended up using? Thanks.
I would agree that 7 speed is very quiet. I have found 8 speed to be the same. Nothing with down tube friction shifters. I use them every day on my commuter, around 260km a week on day shift, and never have a problem with shifting.australiantourer wrote:Hello octagonal man. As it happens, the 9 speed transmission was only half worn out, so I have stored it in the boxes that the 8 speed stuff came in, and can provide the numbers. The chain and cassette are just standard shimano -- CN-HG70 and CS-HG41-8, respectively. Not expensive. I have bar end shifters (and love them) -- if you are running sti's, this experiment might be prohibitively expensive. The 8 speed shimano selectors are the same series as the ones they replaced -- SL-RS50-8. They were marked at $140, but Abbotsford Cycles gave me a terrific discount provided they could keep a couple of bits I apparently didn't need. I'm not sure that they are still in production.octagonalman wrote:I've been a little disappointed having done my first tour on a 24 speed Kona Dew that I had tweaked and then moving to a 2013 VWR. My observations are similar regarding the 9 speed at the back and disc brakes. I have decided not to try clean out the brakes more because it can make my presence known to pedestrians on shared paths without having to touch my bell. I ended up buying a wider bottom bracket (122.5mm up from 113mm) to try move the chainline out so I wouldn't get rubbing at both ends of the gear spectrum. Now I have noticed that the combination of the Sugino crank shape and chainline mean that noise in 3x9 is pretty much unavoidable. I've even painted the outside of the derailleur cage to see whether it is struck by the crankarm. I think my 46t chainring is also showing noticeable wear!
Australiantourer, do you mind sharing the model names of the 8 speed parts you ended up using? Thanks.
They mentioned that a really economical approach would be to use cheap friction selectors on the down tube -- just like in the 1980s when I got my first touring bike. I can't say that option appeals at all to me -- there's really no looking back from an indexed cassette, I reckon. Rivendell bicycle works has other unfashionable options too advertised on their website.
I have found that the 8 speed is quieter than the 9 speed, but still not as quiet as the 7 speed (only tyre noise -- bliss!). The front selector is designed as a friction setting, unlike the rear shifter which is indexed (though you can turn that off and revert to friction, if things are going pear-shaped). There is a sweet spot for every gear combination where the transmission cliking noise is minimal -- if you are as fussy as me about this sort of noise, you can tweak the front derailleur position with every shift at the rear.
Most cyclists don't seem to understand what I'm talking about here. They may be mainly riding in traffic, or groups, or be chatting constantly. But if you are lost in the moment on a quiet country road, it does matter. I think it's a bit like trying to explain to someone who only listens to mp3 audio that they might be missing a depth of experience.
Unlikely, since the subject is touring bikes. My 9-speed setup using STI is silent, all I can hear is the tyres on the road and the wind in the spokes - hence the name of my touring blog.australiantourer wrote:Most cyclists don't seem to understand what I'm talking about here. They may be mainly riding in traffic, or groups, or be chatting constantly. But if you are lost in the moment on a quiet country road, it does matter.
Say if I've trimmed it to the point of the crank arm striking the derailleur cage and am still not rid of chain rub on big-small? I guess I can get a similar effect by not using the 9th gear at the back and having 12t instead of 11t as my 'fastest'.singlespeedscott wrote:All you would need to do is change your rear cassette to an 8speed. The chainrings and the derailleurs currently on your bike are backwards compatible all the way to 7 speed. Be aware though that chain rub on the front derailleur is always inevitable when on the edges of the cassette and all that it requires is a minor trimming of the derailleur. Not a big issue.
I've got MTB shifter on a trekking bar model. On a recent tour my riding buddy was reminded about how useful it can be to have gear shifters in a convenient place while holding onto dear life on a lengthy corrugated downhill! Thanks for the info though. It's nice to know that not only are there people who aren't satisfied with particular aspects of their VWR, but also have solutions.australiantourer wrote: Hello octagonal man. As it happens, the 9 speed transmission was only half worn out, so I have stored it in the boxes that the 8 speed stuff came in, and can provide the numbers. The chain and cassette are just standard shimano -- CN-HG70 and CS-HG41-8, respectively. Not expensive. I have bar end shifters (and love them) -- if you are running sti's, this experiment might be prohibitively expensive. The 8 speed shimano selectors are the same series as the ones they replaced -- SL-RS50-8. They were marked at $140, but Abbotsford Cycles gave me a terrific discount provided they could keep a couple of bits I apparently didn't need. I'm not sure that they are still in production.
Actually, I don't believe it's that simple. Unless you are running friction shifters, you'll have to get the right indexed shifter (i.e. 8, not 9). And then the wider 6/7/8 speed chain. And if you go back to a 7 speed, you'll need to add a spacer. Basically, I was advised not to retrofit back to a 7 -- only to an 8 speed. And this advice was in the context of me arguing the virtues of 7 speed.singlespeedscott wrote:All you would need to do is change your rear cassette to an 8speed. The chainrings and the derailleurs currently on your bike are backwards compatible all the way to 7 speed. Be aware though that chain rub on the front derailleur is always inevitable when on the edges of the cassette and all that it requires is a minor trimming of the derailleur. Not a big issue.
The only real issue with moving back to a 7 speed drivetrain would be finding a 7 speed STi rear lever and a 7 speed shimano triple front derailleur. Both of these are easily sourced of ebay after searching for a few days. Shimano RSX 7 speed STi levers work fine and there are plenty of Shimano deore LX, DX and XT 7 speed mtb, triple, front derailleurs to be found for very little money. The added benefit of the mtb derailleurs is that they are designed for smaller front chainrings that are favoured by tourists. The rear cassette spacer is no issue at all and only costs a few bucks.australiantourer wrote:Actually, I don't believe it's that simple. Unless you are running friction shifters, you'll have to get the right indexed shifter (i.e. 8, not 9). And then the wider 6/7/8 speed chain. And if you go back to a 7 speed, you'll need to add a spacer. Basically, I was advised not to retrofit back to a 7 -- only to an 8 speed. And this advice was in the context of me arguing the virtues of 7 speed.singlespeedscott wrote:All you would need to do is change your rear cassette to an 8speed. The chainrings and the derailleurs currently on your bike are backwards compatible all the way to 7 speed. Be aware though that chain rub on the front derailleur is always inevitable when on the edges of the cassette and all that it requires is a minor trimming of the derailleur. Not a big issue.
octagonalman wrote: I ended up buying a wider bottom bracket (122.5mm up from 113mm) to try move the chainline out so I wouldn't get rubbing at both ends of the gear spectrum. Now I have noticed that the combination of the Sugino crank shape and chainline mean that noise in 3x9 is pretty much unavoidable. I've even painted the outside of the derailleur cage to see whether it is struck by the crankarm. I think my 46t chainring is also showing noticeable wear!
I really don't understand the problems (nor the solutions) you guys are encountering with driveline noise, chainlines and chain rub.octagonalman wrote:Say if I've trimmed it to the point of the crank arm striking the derailleur cage and am still not rid of chain rub on big-small? I guess I can get a similar effect by not using the 9th gear at the back and having 12t instead of 11t as my 'fastest'.
I agree. The lower edge of the outer plate of the FD should only be sitting 2-3mm above the large ring.singlespeedscott wrote:...the derailleur looks to be sitting to high and is not aligned with the large chainring.
Rubbish!!!octagonalman wrote:The mechanic said that cage rub on 9 speed is unavoidable.