Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
I ride a 2013 Specialized Roubaix Expert Shimano Di2. I am currently 110kg+ (See the 2014 weight loss thread ) and looking for a wheel upgrade under the $1000 mark.
I ride about 150-200klm per week up and down the roads in and around the Sunny Coast (great views but not exactly smooth!) so need something tough but something that will add some performance.
Thanks heaps in advance.
Talk to this bloke. I was in the exact same boat as you a few years ago and it was the best $1000 I spent....
He asked me what sort of riding I do, how heavy I am/was and put them together for me.
Something with White Industries hubs and lots of spokes. There's a bloke in Lennox Head who builds with them http://www.xlr8wheels.com.au and his wheel builds are very good.
On the other hand...Rich-Ti on this forum is almost giving away some Royce hubbed carbon tubular wheels (but with little success). The Campy cassette might be an issue but easy to solve. You could trade off the tub rims and go with clincher rims but either way you'll have better wheels than the bike deserves viewtopic.php?f=25&t=75857&p=1150095#p1150095
Last edited by silentbutdeadly on Thu Jul 17, 2014 9:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ours is not to reason why...merely to point and giggle
Dura ace has no weight limit on their wheels. Have a look at some c35's. They are pretty good at honoring the warranty claims as well. I had some rs80's that I rode for years. No issues at all and I weighed 105 with a heavy steel bike
Boardman CX pro now the commuter, Salsa Casseroll, Trek Domane
What about these?
http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/road-b ... /102391059
http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/road-b ... /100291163
What don't you understand, I'm sure we can clarify for you.
The first ones are tubulars which most people only use for racing and not everyday use as the tyres require gluing or taping on. You would probably be better with the clincher version which is a regular tyre and tube that doesn't require gluing.
The Easton wheels in your second link are clinchers but are tubeless. Tubeless tyres can be a hassle to seal properly (there's an epic thread about this on BNA forum somewhere). You can use ordinary tyres with tubes but if the Eastons are anything like the Dura Ace C24 tubeless the tyres can be a b!tch to get on and off, better off with the regular clincher (non-tubeless) version.
If it were me... The first thing I would do is have a bit of a look on here at the classifieds. You'll see a whole raft of different wheels available (to suit various scenarios). Deep and shallow profile, alloy, full carbon or a mix of both, various price points, different aesthetics etc.
Once you get an idea of what you like the look of, do a bit or research on them and see what some reviews say. You can't solely make the decision on someone elses review, but make sure that the wheel offers what you are looking for (again, back to purpose - whether the wheel is lightweight, is strong, has an aero benefit or a really good hub, whether its mostly a race wheel or can be used all year round for commuting - or a combination of any of those that you want!).
Secondly, PM both Velo13 ( memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=16357 ) whom is a custom wheel builder, but often has some nice little deals on demo's etc and Jacks1071 ( memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=69760 ) whom sells Pro-Lite wheels in Australia, and are both members on here that regularly sell to or offer advice to fellow forum goers, to see what either can offer you in the style and pricepoint you are looking.
Cut the shortlist down some more and do a bit more research to make sure that you are actually buying something that appeals and that others have had good experiences with and / or suits your needs, and fits your bike. Post up a few more questions in this thread of anything you are unsure of...
Then, if it all checks out, buy them, fit them, take some good pictures and post them for the rest of us to look at!!
Half of the fun is in doing the research (and learning a tonne and becoming more knowledgable and hopefully picking up another XX% of the lingo in the process) and finding a good deal (whether local used, local at an LBS or overseas at one of the various popular online bike mega retailers)... The other half is basking in the glory of your fantastic new wheels every time you hop on the bike... Happy shopping!
I'm also a larger guy and wanted a wheel upgrade. I was struggling with brokeb spokes and keeping a wheel true in general.
I had velo build me a pair of wheels with White Industries T11 hubs and 23mm h+son archetype rims (24 front 28 rear).
These babies roll like you wouldn't believe and have taken a battering over the last 4000ks (I am hopeless at avoiding potholes)
I they are true as the day I got them and ive not had any issues.
The total cost was $900 or so. Contact velo even just for a chat he is a great bloke. Also he has a website xlr8 wheels.
All very interesting. I think I am leaning towards a custom set....I think that May make me a bike nerd/geek as it will give me a nice little point of difference to ponder whilst on the pedals. Will have a look at all suggestions above.
Ps. Now off to investigate which bike computer to get!
Yep, some logic there mate.
Been looking at the Garmin's but my brain is hurting from the range of choices. Wondering if I need MAPS of the 810 over the 510. I do most of riding by myself as yet to join a group so I like the idea of racing the ghost rider to drive performance.
Ok, getting closer to reward time...only 7kg to go...need something to aim for right?
Love some thoughts on these...seem to be great buys?
1. http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/road-b ... /102391948
2. http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/road-b ... /102075573
3. http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/road-b ... /100291163
4. http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/road-b ... /102057477
Been reading up and Easton does not set a max rider weight limit but the Shimano look pretty sweet. Yes, breaking the listed budget but it is for a good cause.
The Eastons all have pretty narrow rim widths. The trend is for rims to get wider (23mm or more), to "spread" out the tire more to get a bigger contact patch. This allows lower pressures to be run for a more comfy ride. Supposedly more aero too (the lightbulb profile of a tire on a narrow rim is less pronounced, especially if you're running larger tires, e.g. 25mm). Lots of the big name wheel makers (Mavic, Shimano, Campag/Fulcrum...) have been slow or rather limited to move to wider rims, but other brands have done so wholeheartedly. Many custom wheel builders seem to be embracing the wider rims too.
I've been thinking about some Boyd Altamonts, but can't justify the upgrade at the moment.
The C35s are that you link to are tubulars - depends on whether you want to go with tubulars (I have no experience with tubulars).
Thanks for the mention above guys. I recommend looking at the Bracciano A42.
Inside your budget, would represent a performance upgrade for most off the rack bikes and your weight won't worry them.
Our Website is: http://www.pro-liteoz.com Find us on Facebook by searching for "Pro-Lite Australia"
If over 90kg, don't buy a wheelset under 1600 grams. it just won't last.
I think you'd be better off looking for performance gains in the motor dept, before expecting the wheels to provide the performance!
You don't get much aero 'performance' from deep section wheels until you are sustaining well over 30kph. Ask yourself how often you do that.
Can't recommend deep section for everyday riding. The trend is away from those anyway, and back to what makes sense for wind and rough roads (one of the reasons top riders use deep section is because they are stiffer, which means you feel every bump).
IMO, anyone over 100kg would be better off riding a CX bike, with 35mm tires and disc brakes. but that's another story.
Was meant to be the clincher for the Shimano's and there is also the C24's for under a grand.
The Motor dept is improving all the time (apart from not being able to shake the man flu!!) and I can comfortably avge 30-32 up till about 40k now. So to answer your question it is pretty often when I do the flatter courses in my area. There is a couple of hillier rides and depending on the course I am in the 27-29 for those outings. I am am always by myself so no drafting benefits there...I wish ha ha!
The pro lite website looks interesting with more then a few options to confuse me more.
Was also thinking I could swap back to my current for the less smooth roads but I reckon it would be hard to drop back once the new ones are on.
Give me a call if you decide to order and we'll run through the models you are interested in.
Some models are not suitable for a 110kg rider and its important that we choose the right set for you.
Our Website is: http://www.pro-liteoz.com Find us on Facebook by searching for "Pro-Lite Australia"
After taking the lose some weight hints (ha ha) above I am about to order. Now just over 100kg.
Will be checking out with Jacks tomorrow but also considering...down to two (although Zonda's keep popping up as well)
1. http://www.merlincycles.com/fulcrum-rac ... 47536.html
2. http://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-dur ... 59288.html
Discuss away please?
The Dura Ace wheels are a bit cheaper here - http://www.probikekit.com.au/bicycle-wh ... 81801.html
The fulcrums in your link are Campagnolo free hub. Won't fit Shimanos cassettes.
If your not specifically after the two way fit check out bike bug. They have fulcrum racing 1 in clincher for $899... and they are an Aussie store.
http://www.bikebug.com/m/fulcrum-racing ... 15161.html
Do you really need to spend $1000 to gain the advantage you're expecting? From experience, a decent set of wheels can be purchased for sub-$500 and will make a huge difference. A pair of Campagnolo Zondas are really light and roll smoothly and cost less than half your budget (they're basically the same as the Fulcrums, made by the same company in the same factory by the same people). My opinion is that buying wheels is subject to the law of diminishing returns, you're not going to save much/any weight for an extra $500. Plus for the money you save you can get a top of the range Garmin computer.
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