Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
I'm looking for a new road bike. I like the Giant TCR CO and the Orbea Orca. My criteria is carbon frame with durace drive train. Can riders of either of these bike post a report on what they like about them and what to watch for. Should I be looking at other high end bikes?
Isn't there a bit of a price difference between those two models? Why do you like them? Have you ridden both?
I would suggest riding everything you can get your butt on in this price range - Avanti, Bianchi, Cannondale, everything!! It is too much money to not spend the time doing this.
Why Dura-Ace? What sort of riding are you doing and distances? I have a full carbon Scott CR1 with 101 and it meets my requirements. I couldn't justify upping the model and getting the dura-ace offering. Granted, it came with better/lighter wheels, but it was about $4000 difference!! How about Ultegra?
I'm just asking as I had my mind set on a particular bike...and then saw and tried the one I bought
Like Moo I think that you should ride a few bikes - unless you already have, before you set criteria that limit your choice to top end bikes - unless money is really not an issue.
If it isn't then there's a lot to look at, mainly Europeans like Bianchi, Pinarello, de Rosa etc. or my current euro-favourites BMC and Ridley.
But, unless you have specific riding requirements, I don't think that you will notice much difference on an Ultegra- rather than Dura Ace-equipped (or Chorus rather than Record, if you'd prefer a Campagnolo groupset) bike. You will notice a difference between a carbon and an aluminium frame, because their ride quality is different - but the weight savings aren't as much as you'd think. Probably no more that a full water bottle, really. Wheels can make a difference too, as can tyres.
Anyway, if you want top-end, and you can afford it, go for it. My plug of the day - the euroPro from Teschner (or one of their Leggara models), because we make good stuff in Australia too!
ps. I don't ride either of the bikes you mentioned. The girlie bike (the one in my avatar) is an Australian designed and built, Ultegra-equipped Alchemy and I'm a long way off being able to ride it beyond its capability.
I have ridden Dura Ace-equipped, carbon-framed Giant, Trek and Scott bikes, as well as the euroPro. I strongly believe that, other things being equal, bike fit is more important than brand name.
Last edited by LuckyPierre on Mon Feb 19, 2007 9:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
I have 2 giant mountain bikes at the moment which are great (Anthem 1 and XCT1). I am now into riding on the road (doing training runs of 50-60 km) with a bunch of guys who race. I really enjoy it and so want to get a road bike. I choose Giant because of value for money and good back up (probably the best of the lot) which is important when spending this kind of money. Giant have sold out the model I really want (TCR advanced 0). So I am looking to see what else there is. I came up with the TCR Composite 0 and the Orbea orca. Big difference in price but I want to buy top end so Ultegra or 105 are not an option.
I have looked at lots of other brands but get turned off when I ask about back up and warranty. You can see the shop owners squirm when answering my questions (unless they are Giant dealers). I am yet to look at an Orbea and talk to a dealer so they might get knocked out too.
I agree that fit is critical. This should happen as part of the buying process. I guess I really want feedback from people who have these bikes or know of them.
Thanks to all the replies so far.
If this is your first venture into road racing, then I wouldn't get too hung up on the absolute quality of the bike. To be honest, its mainly about the rider.
Have a nice day
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?
Yeah. Sit on and ride a lot of bikes, then buy the one you fall in love with. That's the bike you'll most enjoy having under you and hence is the bike you'll do the most miles on.
There is a secret to race success - it's printed on bike tyre that must be worn down to reveal it. The trouble is, no-one knows which tyre it is, but the smart ones are trying to find it
Nothing wrong with buying bling, as long as you're realistic about what it is and you never know, one day you may be good enough to be able to tell the difference between the top end bikes
Rather than start a new topic, I thought I'd add my question here.
But 1st, a bit of background - I've had my Diamondback Wildwood for more years than I can remember (back when a Hi-Tensile steel frame was good gear), and have used it a fair bit for riding for exercise, but now am in the process of getting a bit more serious and wanting a proper road bike. The goal is still to keep up the 25 - 35km rides, and increase the fitness to take part in the shorter public stages of the Tour Down Under etc
I have about $1000 or so to spend, and not only the bike, but I would need to get the shoes, pump etc that are not needed on a Mountain bike used on the road.
Given the above, and looked at a range of bikes such as Shogun Samuri $999), Giant OCR3 ($899), Trek 1000 ($1000), Diamondback Interval ($959), Felt F90 ($949), Merida Road 901-16 ($899), Scott Speedster S50 ($1099), & Cell Team ($1099) just to name a few.
Now my main questions are ;
1. Given that the prices are all similar, is it better to buy a bike for $1000 that has Shimano 105 gear on it (Shogun or Cell), or go for something like the Giant/Trek/Avanti/Scott etc that has lesser range of Shimano (Sora/Tiagra or mix) ?
2. For the average Michael, rather than a serious racer, would I REALLY notice the difference between a 105 equipped bike or lesser componentry ?
3. Is there a best time to buy a bike - Winter or Xmas time ?
4. Or am I better saving a bit more money and lifting the budget closer to $1500 ? A mate just bought a Giant TCR 2 for $1700 and I am very jealous
Thanks for reading and your feedback
2. I suspect not really in the beginning but over time as you improve you will notice ware and less smooth shifting in the lesser models. I think if your half serious you should not get anything lesser than 105 (unless you can't afford it, in that case it'll be ok)
3. The best time to buy a NEW bike is the start of the year when new models come out as shops are getting rid of last years stock. I also suspect winter would be a better time to bargain as not this is down time for alot of riders / shops.
4. In my experience 1700+ can get you an OK new bike (but this will come down to personal preference/usage). You can try to find something second hand (less likely if your short/tall) if you dont have that much doosh.
There is no exact answer to your question, all of the bikes you mentioned are suitable for distances under say 100k.
What is important is getting the one that fits your body well. After that is durability and personal preference.
Have a nice day
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?
G'Day Michael, welcome to the asylum
Some background for you... I'm a Giant tragic so you'll have to accept just a little bias. I come from a MTB background, so it's a big step onto skinny tyres. I'll be picking up a shiny new OCR2 in the next couple of days. YIPPEE I was planning on buying midyear but the LBS had a big sale on...what can I say?
What sort of kit do you have for the Wildwood? As has been mentioned elsewhere, getting fully kitted out can cost near as much as the bike. Look at moving as much as possible from one bike to the other and getting the extras over time.
The bikes you've listed are probably all pretty good (I'd only looked at Giant and Shogun before I got seduced) No doubt one of them would call out to you during testing. IMO get the best frame you can afford, you have to replace parts eventually, and I believe most Shimano groups can be upgraded a bit at a time (don't quote me!) Having said that, I chose the OCR2 over the 3 because it had Tiagra over Sora gear, my little thumbs couldn't reach the triggers from the drops
Hope this helps
Thanks for the replies guys.
My MTB is an old tragic and wouldn't waste swapping gear over. The group set is Shimano Altus (older than the hills) and the bike will be better sold as is I think.
I have heard that the fit is the key thing, so will keep that in mind.
But back to the Giant OCR2 - if the main difference is the group set, does this justify the $400 difference ?
Is the Shogun Samuari then a good bike compared to the OCR 2 in that it has the full 105 set ? Can same be said for Cell ?
Shaun, you mentioned LBS - who are they and what are their contact details ?
Might be better buying in Melbourne than Adelaide - are there anmy that are the key ones to visit ?
I just missed on a special that I would have gladly forked out the extra cash on - It was an Avanti Kona (large frame - OK as I'm 184cm) for $1299 - they were clearing the stock, but it sold. Bugger.
Keep the replies coming
I've been using an OCR2 for 2 1/2 years and have been happy with it. Like I said, its personal choice. The TCR has more aggressive geometetary than the OCR, you could say that the TCR is slightly sportier than the OCR and the OCR is slightly more comfortable. Having said that I had no problems what so ever riding a 120k hill ride in the morning last Aussie day.
I was in Cell bikes last week and the quality of the frames seems pretty good now, where previously the welds were a bit rough, as are the rear ones on the OCR2. Check their web site, I think they state clearly what parts on the bikes.
Have a nice day
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?
Tim at the LBS is giving me the OCR2 for $1000 with a few bits thrown in. I didn't think I'd have the cash till tax time, but it was too good a deal, I think transport to/from Vic might ruin the idea tho' (unless you're planning to ride home, instant God status if you do )
The frame is the key, the extra bling on the Shogun was, for me at least, worth less than the way the OCR made me feel. Sorry if the explanation sounds vague, but there's one bike out there that makes you think something like "You and me babe, how about it? Take your time and wait to be seduced, a top range frame with all the fruit is just a sculpture if you don't ride it because it feels lifeless under your bum.
Hell, that's a good price.
Just worked out what LBS is - Local Bike Shop !!
No fear of riding melbourne to Adelaide except with plane wings...
Giant1 - you mentioned that warranty from manufacturers was important. I have a Scott CR1 (105, but the same frame is used for ultegra and dura-ace) and got it from my LBS. That particular chain gives a lifetime warranty on all frames. This sort of thing may be worth investigating.
Go the bling!! I even got carbon bidon cages to match heehee
I absolutely love my Scott. My husband has a Giant OCR Composite (last years full carbon offering) and I rode it for the first time today. Despite it being a quality bike, I found it sluggish and boring. Yeah, it was comfy, but BORING!! When I stand on the pedals on mine, it feels "springy" - like it just wants to get out of the blocks and go. When I do the same on the Giant, it carries on as normal.
Of course, my husband loves his bike and thinks that mine is too agressive Everyone is different!!
My own opinion on when to buy? Save as much as you can justify!! I'm not a compromiser - I won't get something to just make do but will save until I have what I want. My LBS chain also does a no interest ever payment scheme - I'm sure this is offered by others and may be worth investigating.
Good feedback. I'm with you on the bling. Get the best bike you can if you can. Life is too short for compromise.
I did look at Scott...Nice bikes but I'm still leaning towards Giant. I will take a good look at Orbea on the weekend and make my mind up one way or another.
There is a review of the Orbea Orca in the latest Ride magazine. It sounds pretty positive, but I got a bit scared at the price...of course, it is purely jealousy!! They also have a Specialized Tarmac and Colnago Extreme Power. These are all around the same price so might be worth a look.
I know it isn't quite the same bike, but these may be useful:
http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id= ... omposite_1
http://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/lates ... 68crx.aspx
I've got good info from roadbikereview in the past.
I'm a fan of Mavic rims...get whichever has these
Well, finally did it. Went down to the almost LBS and put a bike on layby. I saw it when I went there the other week, and after looking and touching a few others (Shogun Samurai, Shogun Team Issue, Giant OCR1, Trek 1400), decided that an offer on this one was on the cards.
It is a 2006 LeMond Tourmalet which has the following goodies ;
Frame : LeMond 6066 fully butted Performance Aluminum
Fork : Bontrager Carbon
Crank : Shimano 105 53/39(double)
Front Derailleur : Shimano 105
Rear Derailleur : Shimano 105
Shift/Brake Levers : Shimano 105 STI
Cassette : Shimano 105 12-25, 10-speed
Wheel System : Bontrager Select wheelsystem
Tires : Bontrager Race Lite 700x23c
Brakes : Shimao 105
Handlebar : Bontrager Select VR OS
Stem Bontrager : Select OS
Saddle Bontrager : Race Lux
Seatpost : Bontrager Carbon
As it was last years model, the asking price was $1500 instead of the RRP of $1999, but managed to score it for $1350 !!!!
Now, just gotta pay it off quick so that I can ride it. Mind you, need carpal tunnel surgery , so if I'm quick, I'll be recovered by the time I get it
Cheers for the advice and info guys.
If you are just after bike bling, then bling without class is nothing. It's like buying a souped up Ford Falcon vs a red Italian roadster. Life is too short without a touch of class!
Given your first entry into road biking, ride to get to know the technology, work on your engine, then consider the upgrade based on your knowledge and needs. Coming to a forum asking blindly for the "best" bike is a sure label of a fred irrespective of how much you have in your pocket.
Bianchi, Ridley, Montague, GT, Garmin and All things Apple
Plympton Cycles. Not a huge shop, but when I went in, there were only 3 road bikes - the LeMond, a Gitane Mach 1600 and a cheapie. It was the initial price that got me intersted in the LeMond, and after looking around, took a friends advice and made an offer.
Another couple of months before I ride it (2 more pays) and depending on how quick I finish the paving determines when I get the carpals done and then can get back into riding !!!
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