Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
7 posts • Page 1 of 1
If the Yukon didn't originally have suspension (the current ones do), then it's geometry is such that it can't really be done - the head tube is the wrong length.
If it did, then the sky's the limit - you probably need to match the suspension travel that your old fork had, but you can get 'smart lockout' vs manual / remote lockout and a lot better damping control without great expense.
Oops, I'm a roadie - what am I doing ... ?
A 94 Yukon you say, hmmm.
Fitting What is the head tube diameter, will it take a 1 1/8 steerer?
Geometry Bounce forks are longer measured from dropout to crown race, this will slacken off the head angle, making the bike steer like an oil tanker unless you can find a short travel fork (50mm), a rarity these days.
Engineering The extra length of the fork will exert greater leverage than the frame was designed for at the head tube/downtube junction, cracks are common after this conversion.
Finance You'll need to factor in the cost of the fork, a new headset and stem as well as fitting, this would probably equal or exceed the cost of a new bike at a similar level.
IMO you'd be better off riding the Yukon as is and putting the cash towards a new or younger bike if you want suspension. You'll also be getting the benefit of twelve odd years of drivetrain and brake development.
Sorry if this sounds discouraging, but I went down that track a while back.
I have the tendency to agree buy a new bike which is designed for a suspention fork then retro-fitting. However I do not know how much your bike may cost to replace.
I ride Avanti Pionear, this comes with smart lockout for the suspention fork. This is particuly good as it means when pedeling I am not losing power into the suspention but if I hit something hard it engages and the bump is not as hard. Trust me you still feel it but not as bad.
BCC give us some more bikeways fore safe travel!!!!
Upgrade the NCL now QR!!!!!!
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7 posts • Page 1 of 1
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