Serious injury coming 531db's way?

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Serious injury coming 531db's way?

Postby 531db » Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:43 pm

Replaced the chain on the "real steel" (Oria tubing) Fellini tonight.
The old Shimano one was fairly worn and I decided to try a Wippermann Connex 800.
As I always do with 5/6/7/8 speed chains I used a chainbreaker to shorten and join the chain, ignoring the supplied 'joining link'.
I did find the removal and reinstatement of the pin heavy going and managed to damage the threads of my chainbreaker due to the 'force' required.
All seems to be ok, although I still need a test ride tomorrow to ensure all is well both with the chain and some of the 7 speed cassette cogs that were replaced with slightly used ones.
Took a lookat the supplied Connex instructions when cleaning up afterwards. Part of them read:

"WARNING
Because the chain has specially rivited pins, the original pins should never be used to re-connect the chain. Always use CL connector. Ignoring these instructions result in serious injury due to breakage."

Jeepers - no "may" or "can" result in injury - Connex have pointed the "bone" at me......

Makes you wonder though.... sure I could have joined the chain with the joining link, but how the hell are you supposed to shorten the chain? The supplied chain would have been far too loose on the 42/13 or 14 if used as supplied.

Bring back those 1980/90's Sedis Gold/Silver/Black chains I say..........
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by BNA » Thu Apr 26, 2007 8:40 am

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Postby LuckyPierre » Thu Apr 26, 2007 8:40 am

If you break the chain at the connecting link, then shorten it, the 'special rivet' at the point where you shortened it will be completely removed. Then you can re-join using the connecting link and avoid the serious injury now heading your way.
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Postby mikesbytes » Thu Apr 26, 2007 10:11 am

I'm using the links nowdays, it makes cleaning easier.

The risk warning is all about liability, so when you break your pinkie, you can't sue them.

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Postby MichaelB » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:12 pm

mikesbytes wrote:I'm using the links nowdays, it makes cleaning easier.



I'm about to do the same.

When "removing" the links required using the approriate tool, is there any special tricks/tips/links/pins etc ? When done on a motorbike (my previous experience, an angle grinder was required to get the head off the pin so it could be pushed through. Is the same required on a pushie chain (sans angle grinder....) ?

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Postby mikesbytes » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:47 pm

Shimano - hold chain and bend inwards (sidways)

Connex - hold and and push links together

Sram - hold and push links together. If it doesn't work, gently use pliers just to get them to unlock, don't use any significant force.

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Postby MichaelB » Thu Apr 26, 2007 1:00 pm

mikesbytes wrote:Shimano - hold chain and bend inwards (sidways)

Connex - hold and and push links together

Sram - hold and push links together. If it doesn't work, gently use pliers just to get them to unlock, don't use any significant force.


I'm OK for the new "removable link", but was after advice for the removal of the standard link in the one piece chain
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Postby MountGower » Thu Apr 26, 2007 4:38 pm

I
Last edited by MountGower on Mon Mar 23, 2009 2:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby MichaelB » Thu Apr 26, 2007 4:56 pm

If you look at the Park Tool guide (per MikesBytes signature), am I correct in assuming that I choose a link (Simano 9 speed version on my bike) that doesn't have the "special replacement rivet", push out the two pins (without any prep except careful alignment of the tool), remove chain, claen, yada yada yada, refit lubed chain, and then assemble again with joining link ?

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Postby Mulger bill » Thu Apr 26, 2007 5:15 pm

MichaelB wrote:If you look at the Park Tool guide (per MikesBytes signature), am I correct in assuming that I choose a link (Simano 9 speed version on my bike) that doesn't have the "special replacement rivet", push out the two pins (without any prep except careful alignment of the tool), remove chain, claen, yada yada yada, refit lubed chain, and then assemble again with joining link ?

Cheers

Michael B


Yep. That works for me. To make rejoining easier, get an old broken spoke about 140mm long and bend a hook into each end, it holds the chain so you can concentrate on fitting the link.
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Postby 531db » Thu Apr 26, 2007 9:08 pm

Well, the chain stood up to a fairly rigorous 52 km today without any injury to myself - well maybe to my wallet as it cost $16.50 for a new chain breaker tool. I did see a very squashed dead black cat on the road though.... :roll:

LuckyPierre, yes I knew how to shorten the chain, but Connex's instructions did not explain this, my comment was a bit tongue in cheek.
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