buying a pump-gauge or no gauge?
33 posts
• Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
buying a pump-gauge or no gauge?The ones with no gauge seem cheaper and more compact, is it best to buy it and then buy one of those connectors that I can use at the petrol station to check the pressure? anyone who does it that way?
I am looking at topeak road morph$57, against topeak pocket rocket master blaster dx $25.
When you're using a hand pump after a flat, usually you just want to get it to rideable pressure, for which you don't need a gauge, just thumb test.
I have a Blackburn Airstik which has worked great for me, very solid, aluminium barrel, serviceable, pumps up to reasonable road pressure without a lot of effort. My money goes good quality hand pump, with 2 way action (saves time for the first 50 PSI or so). Proper floor pump to check pressure when you get home. Wouldn't bother out on the road, didn't check mine for months (did it by thumb feel) and it didn't make much difference.
I'd go the bnej route - out on yourbike you just want the tyre back up to rideable pressure. Worry about what pressure it is when you get home and can use your track pump to finish the job.
Can I hijack this a little? Too late, I have. What about on-bike pumps for mtb's? I'm dreading the thought of getting an mtb tyre back up after a flat with my road pump. Litespeed Classic - 3Al/2.5V titanium tube set, Record 9-speed groupset, Open Corsa Evo CX
Alchemy Diablo - Columbus Zonal tubing, Ultegra 9-speed groupset, UltraGatorskins Gitane Rocks T1 - U6 tubing, Deore/XT groupset, CrossMarks
Why the worry? I would've thought it'd be easier than trying to fill a road tyre with an MTB pump, since the fat knobblies run on much lower pressures than a road slick.
Yep, when you've used up your CO2 cartridges, you definitely won't look back. Bianchi, Ridley, Montague, GT, Garmin and All things Apple
Most of us will probably recommend that you get 2 pumps, a good floor pump for home and a basic pump for the bike.
Peter, The little pump isn't a problem for the MTB on the road as you don't need to inflate the tyre as hard anyway. I've got stuff on ebay
yeah but i never have one puncture on a ride...learnt my lesson and take 3 tubes and 3 canisters every ride...i can change a puncture in less time than a lap in hefron and jump staight back on. I have had more bad luck with pumps not working than running out of cannisters.
If you have presta valves, you probably won't be able to check them at a servo - their gauges usually won't go high enough.
Litespeed Classic - 3Al/2.5V titanium tube set, Record 9-speed groupset, Open Corsa Evo CX
Alchemy Diablo - Columbus Zonal tubing, Ultegra 9-speed groupset, UltraGatorskins Gitane Rocks T1 - U6 tubing, Deore/XT groupset, CrossMarks
Re: re
I did stumble on them not long ago while hunting for a hacker, pity I can't remember where.... Ahh, here they are If that's no good, my LBS has them. I'll be happy to post one to you if you want to PM me. Shaun ...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
You can usually get 60-70psi at the servo and then add a bit more with the hand pump. Personally I couldn't be bothered with the servo. I've got stuff on ebay
A couple of us have the Airwave, but a metal barrel is probably better in the long run.
Litespeed Classic - 3Al/2.5V titanium tube set, Record 9-speed groupset, Open Corsa Evo CX
Alchemy Diablo - Columbus Zonal tubing, Ultegra 9-speed groupset, UltraGatorskins Gitane Rocks T1 - U6 tubing, Deore/XT groupset, CrossMarks
One with a long skinny shaft, definitely not the ones with fat shafts. I've got stuff on ebay
reThe topeak pocket rocket master blaster dx arrived today. Both 70-23C tyres I have have a rating of 100psi and after using them for 300km from new they seem they are running low on pressure, I pumped them up and now they are much stiffer. Went for a 12k ride and I felt the front needed to loose some pressure, mainly by looking at how much its buldging and squeezing it with my fingers. Topping them up with air seemed so easy, I recommend this pump.
I'll buy the floor pump in the future, thanks for you're advice.
related note: don't just go by the tyre rating, pump them up according to how how heavy you are,and what rolling resistance you get. sheldon brown's site has a good GUIDE on tyre presures, so have a read.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tyres.html but yeah don't just go "the tyre says 100psi, so that's what i'll always pump them to"
Just read that Sheldon article and its pretty good.
Being really light it seems I don't have to pump my tyres that hard. I shocked myself when I checked my weight tonight. Lets just say my tires need to be pumped to less than 55 PSI when I'm riding on my 2.1 knobbies. Is that right. It sounds so wrong.
33 posts
• Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
Return to Buying a bike / parts Who is onlineUsers browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Ken Ho |
Top Bikes & Gear
Exclusive: BNA 10% discount for ProBikeKit |