Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
19 posts • Page 1 of 1
i'm looking to invest on a road bike that will last many years. i am 19 now and my last bike was a mountain bike which i got 6 years ago.
Because i know nothing about roadies, 1 question:
Are road bikes durable enough for unsealed (but not muddy) tracks? or will it get wrecked?
I ride my current bike around the residential area and this park that has sealed and unsealed bike paths.
Unless you build up something stupid-light they will be fine. If you're really worried about it get one of these
http://www.dirtworks.com.au/newsite/con ... w/195/143/
I've ridden on unsealed roads with my road bike, as long as there isn't deep sand or other junk to make you loose traction it should be okay. Just slow down a over any bumps. If it's still comfortable to ride it's unlikely to wreck the bike.
My Trek often travels on gravel or dirt ... but it's steel and has decent, load carrying wheels.
The bottom end ally and carbon framed bikes should do the job without a problem. Frames these days have warrantees so that should 'protect' you anyway. If you find your wheels are having trouble, just get them rebuilt.
I had a good bike ... so I fixed it
So are carbon frames strong enough?
I'm looking to get a Giant TCR C1 2007 or Giant TCR C0 2006 (i have a bit of money to burn).
If say, for example you hit a 15cm kerb (AT) 10-15kmph, will it be a
1) 1 hit kill
2) your bike barely survived (don't do it again)
3) hitting the kerb over and over again will wreck it in the long run
4) road bike can handle these hits.
Just want know how strong they are.
Probably 2 or 3 depending on the bike, but really 5) Just don't do that. For a high end TCR you have light weight wheels and you will probably put a buckle in them, and possibly pinch-flat your tyres. This is not something you want to do with an expensive road bike where a wheel can cost $$$$.
If you want to do kerb hopping and so on, use a mountain bike. A road bike is designed for going fast and smooth. While you can ride one on good dirt roads, it's not optimal once it's off pavement.
If you're getting a TCR composite as your first road bike, treat it like your new born baby. It's a lot of money and it's worth looking after. The riding position and construction are not going to make MTB tricks fun or safe.
IF you want a general purpose, rugged, dirt/road bike, go for something like the Surly Cross-check, the Trek XO1 or the LeMond Poprad Disc. These are cyclocross bikes made for tough races with a mix of dirt, mud, and pavement.
IF on the other hand, you are looking at joining a riding club, possibly participating in races, doing regular long distance on-road rides, then go for a dedicated road bike - and keep your MTB for kerb hopping and bashing around the block.
thx BNej and the rest
now i know the road bike's strength
i never intend to kerb hop, but i don't want to get depressed when the bike dies from a small bump or a knock (if it ever happens)
I will get a roadie soon that will be like the BMW of bikes (not the ferrari armstrong bike). willing to spend 3-4k, fairly light etc. that will last me for yonks
I have a OCR C3, which is a full composite frame & fork, and I have hit some potholes at speed, I've ridden it on really rough country road (pitted and cracked), and I've had one pretty unpleasant crash at about 30km/h into the back of another cyclist.
The crash caused minor buckling in both wheels which needed to be trued but didn't damage the frame or fork. Potholes etc are unpleasant but generally don't damage the bike (unless they are huge).
They are outdoor equipment designed to be used - used but not abused is the key here. Also the more expensive the racer you buy, the lighter the components will be and in some cases this can mean weaker too (they start putting weight limits on).
I thought major makers had already looked at/tried and discarded thermoplastic frames about 5-6 years ago. IIRC GT was the big champion of the material?
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
Each material has its pros and cons. The quality of frames is dependent on the frame designers ability to utilise the characteristics of the material.
Road bikes are generally much tougher nowadays than they were 30 years ago, however like any tool, you should use it for what its designed for and they are not designed for jumping curbs. Most people wouldn't use a chisel as a screwdriver.
Fixie riders never freewheel
Yet another quotable quote! Is this from "Marketing 101" or "Advanced Marketing In The Real World"?
If you have money to burn, get the right bike for the right purpose. There is no do-it-all well bike that exists.
You already have a MTB, ride that on the dirt tracks.
You want to ride a road bike, well keep it on the roads. Its not so much the damage that you can do the bike, then the damage the bike can do to you. A compromise would be to get a cyclo-cross bike which can handle wider tyres.
What mikebyes said about each frame material has its pros and cons is true.
Regarding something that lasts for a long time, just how long is long? For some 5 years is long enuf for them to want something new. There are many people who still ride steel frames that are approaching 20 years old, or more. Then again, I still see people riding Giant Cadex frames (CF tubing), and these are 15 years old now?
I'd say at 19 you are thinking too far ahead ... just get the bike and ride it. In fact this being your first road bike, after riding for 6 mths you might then start to realise what you want in a road bike, and definitely catch the upgratitis bug. As you progress in your working career, and with more disposable income, its hard not to want to get something better.
To cut a long story short, the financially wise thing to do would be to buy something cheaper first, and for the second bike go all out to get something that will outlast your desires to upgrade.
The Tecnos is beautiful but I feel the Sintesi is better value. The weight differece between the two frames is only 100g but the price difference is $300-500. Plus the Deccadacci tubing of the Tecnos lacks the cachet of the Sintesi's Columbus tubing.
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