Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
+1. My 900 lumen MJ-818 doesn't quite make 2 hours on full output before it gives a "recharge" indication, and dies after a further 30 minutes. Doubt that the 1400 lumen ones are going to do even that. The 900 lumen light attracts complaints from passing riders, so the 1400 is only going to be worse on that score too.
Somebody has to do something, and it's just incredibly pathetic that it has to be us -Jerry Garcia
Why ? The 900 version works fine. Why would you want to blind even more people with the side benefit of reduced battery life ?
For the price difference, you may as well go the newer 1200 or 1600 lights, which ca be dimmed if too bright for longer running time.
Also, its not about blinding people, its about seeing where I am going, and about motorists seeing me. My reflectors, rear lights and front ayups dont seem to be enough to get motorists to stop. Maybe if they think I am a motorcycle, they will assume I am riding at decent speed and will wait their turn.
I'd like to know how WATERPROOF it really is. Still I like my 1400 as it has the two minor lights on either side. The 1600 just looks like one big torch. I'd prefer side lights if I were to upgrade to the 1600.
Amateur oenologist and green-friendly commuter.
They may think you are a motorcycle but it is common knowledge now that bicycle lights are super bright so that logic may not work. Also they don't always see motorcycles either. You need to assume you are invisible as motorcyclists should and do. I used to ride a motorbike.
I'd prefer a low profile too. If you ever flip a bike (it happens) there is a good chance you'll lose a high profile light. Having said that, it doesn't look big on the video.
G'day, I modified one of my Magicshine's for my commuter by removing the standard mount and fitting it to an old reflector mount bent into shape using the screw supplied with a dab of loctite. It has worked well for 8 months. I get no noticable vibration and it doesn't slip like the o-ring mounts would do.
(couldn't work out how to post the image directly )
Good setup @beano and it's given me ideas but I'll have to displace my front mudguard for it (I have an easy Zefal attachment).
Amateur oenologist and green-friendly commuter.
Nice solution beano, except that it will flop about everywhere with the road vibration. I like the thought though.
Personally, when the new handlebars arrive (3T Ergonova's), I'll need to switch to something like the FSA Control Centre to get more space on the handle bars and get the beam out of the way of the cables
I got the 818 and 808E today and I gotta say, for yumcha they are definitely put together nicely. The feel is solid and professional. I'm not worried about the quality, I'd hope to get a lot of use out of them. Light wise, the rear light was Painfully Bright. Holy moly that thing is insane, I had it pointing at my face a bit when it turned on, it's not in the same league as the little LEDs you get from the bike shop. The front wasn't quite as bright as I was expecting, but the real test is on the road.
Batteries and cabling looked like it was designed to see some water, but I don't think I'd be exposing them to torrential rain without some additional support and thinking about minimising the exposure to water. Maybe a little roof wouldn't hurt? Fenders reducing rain from the bottom, roof over the top? Beano's light bracket could incorporate a roof easily. Couldn't be too hard to rig up something that wasn't embarrassingly homebrew. Or could it?
Either way, I'm hoping to give them a test run tomorrow night. There are a couple pitch black areas that I think would serve as a good testing ground. I'm not doing MTB work with these, so my review is only good for commuting.
There is a quick review on candlepowerforums that includes beam shots of the MJ-872 (4 x xpg) MJ-870 (3 x xpg) MJ-808 (P7) and MJ-808 (XML)
The claimed ingress protection rating is IPX4 - Water splashing against the enclosure from any direction for 5 minutes shall have no harmful effect. The weasel words are harmful effect - as long as the light still works after 5 minutes, it doesn't matter how much water gets in.
Still I would be looking at ensuring it is as waterproof as possible - grease the o-rings & threads,
It seems they have gone back to the old design battery pack, so I would be looking to protect the battery from water too, either use an extension cable & put it under the seat, or even better in a waterproof box.
In relation to the rear light, how bright is it from an angle - ie does it improve your visibility from say 45Âº? One of the difficulties with the 1/2 watt lights is they have a very narrow viewing angle.
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That looks Awesome MicaelB.....gonna have to try one of them out - exactly as you say get the cables clear etc
Jamis CODA SPORT Flat Bar CONVERTED to a DROP BAR for Daily commutes
Giant "Talon" MTB for weekend Trails and "FAMILY" stuff
SW 168.5 kgs CW 111 kgs woohoo !
The review is a good one. I imagine that anyone looking to buy one of the more powerful lights knows how much they need (guys doing singletrack MTB stuff at night). It's pretty clear the 1200 and 1600 lumens are much brighter. Are they better than Dinottes or Ayups? Who knows. But you can buy two Magicshines, get more light, and still be less poor
Regarding the water protection, I think a bit of plastic bottle (600ml coke bottle) carefully cut would do a good enough job of slowing the devastation of the internals. IP4 is not enough to be called waterproof, but I think to the situations I ride in, you just don't expose a bike light to that much water. If it's really pounding down, you wouldn't ride. I have trouble seeing cars and lines driving in the really hard rain, I can't see biking being a better result I'll be putting both batteries into drybags. Will look at maybe putting a heatshrink type wrap around the battery connection in the opposite direction to improve water resistance. No point having a great seal but run water down the cable into the back of the connector LOL
Directional nature of the light, IMO it throws a very similar beam to the 1600 lumen. It's designed to throw multidirectional. It hurts to bounce the light off your hand into your eyes. I sneak up to the beam from behind. I don't lack confidence in the light at all. It won't save you from a SMIDSY if they can't see a front light or this light... but you could have been a cop car in pursuit and you'd get hit by those guys.
I tried a thinner metal mount as my first attempt and yes that one bounced everywhere. If this one does vibrate I can't tell (although I haven't watched the beam coming towards me on a corrugated road).
I was pretty pleased with the result, especially as it cost me nothing apart from 30 minutes of being an amateur blacksmith. Would like to eventually make it look a little neater (a coat of black enamel and colour matched cable ties for example).
Centre of the beam sits about 10-15m in front. The low angle gives good definition to undulations in the road surface, better than when mounted off the bars (IMO).
I tried a Minoura space grip previously, a little similar in concept to the FSA CC. Thought it looked a little unwieldy and clunky but the FSA job looks a lot neater.
Thanks commurider, Yeah having the free brake mount and having made the decision to have permanent guards (SKS Thermoplastics) meant the bike was almost begging for something to be mounted there. Would love to eventually have a hub dyno, but unfortunately that sort of setup would be worth more than the entire bike.
Didn't see much for a few minutes ...
That'd be awesome... Ay up mounts are cheap and allows easy transfer of the lights from bike to bike...
The Minoura space PITA is just that.
I'll try and post a pic when I get the bars on and the FSA doohickey installed
Two commutes both later morning and then in the dark coming home around 6pm this week. I did a review but for some reason the work computer HATES cookies from this site.
Anyways, the mount is plenty secure, I do have road bike handlebars 31.8mm and this might help contact, I also don't think the seatpost is going to cause issues for the rear light. It DOES vibrate pretty hard if you're going over a lot of bumps, but I get the feeling the only way to avoid vibration is to firmly screw it into the bike chassis. Even then, my hands feel the bumps like crazy so right now I think physics is the problem, not the O-ring mounting. I think it would vibrate even if I drilled the handlebars and seatpost.
It's really quite bright. Not as bright as it could be, and the beam could be focussed better (it's no Schmidt eDelux) but honestly I don't think its too much of a problem. The strobe options for the rear are nice, the strobe is quite intense from the front light. The dark path across Toongabbie creek is as bright as day, and has the upside of letting the path users know I am coming as well.
Road experience from cars etc has been interesting. There is definitely more respect for my space as a general rule. Silly woman passed me coming up to a light with around 30cm clearance from my leg, this was a bit of an eye opener. I am not sure if the lights encouraged this behaviour or not - I've noticed that while cars overtake with around 1.5-2m clearance, instead of 1m before, they are coming past MUCH harder than before. They were doing maybe 1500-2000rpm, now its 2500-4000rpm. There is significantly more confidence and intensity in the drivers' passing. I think my lights are so much brighter and this gives the driver a better idea of where I am so they can go harder with little fear of hitting me. I've also attached my old LEDs to face the rear of my helmet and strobe them... I'm genuinely concerned that I'm angering drivers with my light show LOL
I'm finding the battery packs fit quite well on the bike. I intend on putting batteries in drybags so the weather won't attack them, but the supplied velcro bag isn't too bad.
I think I'm going to be adjusting to these babies for a while. It's a different experience in traffic, and I'm not sure its all positive. I am more concerned about overtaking at speed than I am with closeness, within reason. I need my mirror going again!
The reason they could be passing faster is that they are trying to get past the blinding/irritating lights as fast as possible. Just a thought.
Yep, that's also definitely a hypothesis I'm willing to consider. Thinking of getting my wife to drive behind me over a couple hills for a decent real world test. Still, it's easier to make things darker, impossible to make things brighter if they need to be.
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