Can I fit a disk brake

Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts

Can I fit a disk brake

Postby tastony » Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:04 pm

:( HELP Just wondering if anyone can help me.
OK so I purchased a cheap Kmart DYNO bike it has zoom front suspension and front disk brake. can you fit a disk brake to the rear wheel
they are swift arriv with the (funny) spaced spokes.
I would appreciate any help I can get THANKS ALL.
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by BNA » Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:12 pm


Postby Kalgrm » Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:12 pm

G'day tastony,

Welcome aboard.

I would say it's possible if you already have the lugs for mounting the calipers on the frame (they will be two threaded holes near the place where the rear axel attaches to the frame on the left hand side of the bike), however it's going to cost you more to do that than you spent on the bike in the first place.

Not only will you need to buy a disc brake, but you'll also need to buy a new rear wheel and a rotor. I'd recommend just riding the bike as it is and get a new one when this one starts to fall apart (which may not be too long, depending on how and where you ride .....). You get most of your stopping power from the front brake anyway, so don't worry about it.

Think outside the double triangle.
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Postby Bnej » Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:50 am

You'd get better bang for buck by ditching the front disc brake and getting 2 sets of good quality V brakes and levers. The front disc brake that comes fitted on the Dyno bikes is really not good for much, but a good quality V brake will stop the bike much better.

But I've seen one of those Dyno Kicker bikes that had a bit of use and they're really not worth doing much with, ride it until it breaks then get something better.

The worst part is they put chunky tyres and suspension on and all these "Dirtech" stickers then hide a sticker somewhere on the frame that says "Not for off road use". :?
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Postby beauyboy » Tue Oct 09, 2007 8:56 am

I agree, ride the bike until it is about to fall apart or you feel you need something else (which ever comes first the latter probably).

Then when every thing is about to fall apart buy a new bike from a bike shop. Parts bought alone will always far outcost a made up bike.

BCC give us some more bikeways fore safe travel!!!!
Upgrade the NCL now QR!!!!!!
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Postby europa » Tue Oct 09, 2007 10:33 am

G'day Tastony,

Welcome to the nut house.

Sorry about the less than enthusiastic attitude shown to your bike. Sadly, experience with cheap bikes has driven that.

My advice is not to spend anything on her you aren't forced to. Maintain her and ride her within her limits and you'll be amazed at how long she'll last - some of those cheap bikes do remarkably well.

One of your issues will be that she was built on the cheap and, unless you bought her unassembled in the factory box, was assembled by someone who didn't know what he was doing. So a bit of time going over her and checking everything would be good.

Undo every bolt and make sure it's been greased - this not only prevents the bolt from siezing but allows the bolt to do its job properly (even pro mechanics forget this one and can fall foul of it).

Dial up the Park Tools website and make sure the gears and brakes are adjusted properly.

Check that all the bearings are free and smooth - they aren't hard to repack with grease and that is one area that is often skimped on in the factory - the Deorelx rear derailleur on my bike fell foul of that and is certainly not a low end part.

It sounds like a bit of mucking about, but you're obviously someone who wants to fiddle with his ride so it's worth doing. You'll get to know your bike a lot better, learn a lot about how your bike works mechanically and have a surprising amount of fun doing it.

Maintenance is the key to making her last - cleanliness is only part of maitenance, keeping her lubricated is the big part - maintenance and mechanical sympathy (ie, don't break her with the way you ride). Even if you find yourself buying a full on, race quality machine at horrendous cost, this old girl will still continue to serve as your 'go to the shops' bike etc.

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Thanks Richard

Postby tastony » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:09 pm

I wanted some information about the swift arriv whells mat not critism about how crap cheap these bikes are. As I generally buy quality I paid only $250 for it and it had $418 on it so I thought it was cheap.
Owning a mercedes car and a BMW motorbike I like quality and maybe should have looked around.
regards Tastony
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Postby stryker84 » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:20 pm

Sorry Tastony, but that's the general opinion on discount store bikes here, I'm afraid.

1. Probably good enough to get you on short trips, but for longer you really want to look at stuff from your LBS.
2. Check that it's put together well before you take it out on a ride.
3. Don't expect more than bottom end componentry on it. Even if it's marketed as "disc brake" or "shimano gears" or "great stopping power V-brake" - that's usually what it is, bottom level components with marketing.

So yeah, use it til it falls apart (and you should get plenty of hours from it). Just don't expect that great a ride from it. And when it does, you might look into patching it up with a quick DIY job, but if it requires replacement of parts, I wouldn't bother, and look to replace the whole machine instead.
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Postby Bnej » Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:12 pm

If you look at the rear of the frame, to fit a disc calliper you need two little holes for the disc mount on the rear chainstay. If these aren't there (they are normally only there if the bike comes with a rear disc) then you won't be able to put the disc calliper on.

If they are there, then you need a rear wheel with a hub that can fit a disc rotor. The wheel that came with the bike probably won't have this if it came with a rear V brake. You can replace the wheel to do this.

If the frame and wheel supports it then you'd just need the calliper and rotor, + some effort to fit it. For cable discs you can use regular V brake levers, which your bike will have. Odds on though, you'd spend more than the bike than the bike cost to get all this done.

It's really not worth it, you won't get better stopping power out of the disc brake (a V brake will lock your rear wheel just fine), so it's a lot of money and effort for not enough benefit.

How are you planning to use this bike? Are you asking because you're concerned about braking performance? I'm not trying to put you down or anything, just trying to give you the best information I can.

Even more so than with motor vehicles, disc brakes, gears etc. on a bike can vary a lot.
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Hi Bnej

Postby tastony » Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:45 pm

Hi Bnej
I just wanted some symetry with the look of the bike more than anything LOL. But the vbrake does work fine. Although I was going to give a few downhill runs ago, Myself But nothing in competition. Am too old and I have had motocross bikes for for about 40 years and have had my learning curve on crashes. But my son is keen to have ago unfortunately I have brought 2 of these bikes. 1 for myself and 1 for him .
Maybe I will buy him something else.
The one thing I dont get is that dyno build some good bikes and that the aluminium frame and welds look very good.
But by the sound of things 420 dollars is a cheap bike and they must be fitted with cheap equipment
Regards Tastony
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Postby stryker84 » Tue Oct 09, 2007 2:07 pm

Well, I can't personally say anything bout Dyno bikes, but $420's about the price you'd pay for a low-medium end MTB from an LBS, so perhaps there's some quality in there. I wouldn't keep my hopes up, but ride the bikes anyway, there'll be no harm done if it's set up properly.

Having said that, I know for sure that the trend in the discount stores (KMart, Big W, etc) is to have mass-produced and shoddily assembled bikes, hence the negative responses.

But if you've already got the bikes, then DO ride them, especially if you're just getting into riding. It'll give you and the boy a chance to get used to cycling, and if/when you do upgrade in the future you'll hopefully be able to appreciate the difference.
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Postby Bnej » Tue Oct 09, 2007 2:24 pm

Okay, just a warning, these bikes are *really* not made for downhilling. If you do try it on one of these, be careful (& not too fast) and make sure you stop if anything feels at all loose. And please wear a helmet!

If you want to do downhilling (I presume you mean fast and with jumps and stuff) on the cheap (non dual suspension) look at a bike like a Giant STP, which has a heavier frame build and stronger components - these are like a bit like a bigger BMX with gears. Even then they only take so much abuse.

A higher end Freeride bike will be stronger and safer, but you're looking at $2000 + then. Then you get really good suspension, stronger frame, dual piston hydraulic disc brakes with big rotors, stronger wheels, etc - but you probably don't want to spend so much initially!

If you take the Dyno bikes off road, you'll probably be okay (voids the warranty though, hence that sticker), just avoid jumping and don't be too rough on them, stop riding if anything feels loose (especially headset, cranks and brakes).

Anyway, my advice is ride them as they are, and use your experience to decide what you want from your bikes and see how you like it. There are a lot of types of MTB and what you should get longer term depends entirely on how you want to ride.

Let us know how you go with it in any case.
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