TWE wheels

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jacks1071
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Re: TWE wheels

Postby jacks1071 » Mon Jun 20, 2011 3:30 pm

open roader wrote:Shark bites or love bites, if the installation / removal of the cassette is made problematic by the tooth marks then I'd still be looking for a better freehub carrier (may not nec. be a warranty issue) but I'd stil be wanting to replace this one esp. as it's reputedly only 8 months old.


Any alloy freehub will do that - probably on the first ride so replacing would be a waste of time.

A steel freehub would be more durable, but one needs to consider that the hub only needs to last the life of the bearings inside the freehub. Given that these bearings are pretty difficult to replace, normally you'd swap the freehub out when the bearings are due.

As such - there is not much point building the freehub from heavy steel so it lasts forever - because once the bearings are cactus its going in the bin anyway...

Obviously there is a weight penality for steel which is why a lot of manufacturers choose the more expensive although less durable alloy for the freehubs on their higher end models.

In terms of cassette removal - you just need to tap the back of the cassette with a stick (I use a hammer handle) - little tap and its off. It really is a non-issue.
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open roader
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Re: TWE wheels

Postby open roader » Mon Jun 20, 2011 6:02 pm

FWIW this is the Shimano freehub body that was supplied on my TWE Premier free hub.

Image

It's done over 1,500km of not mucking around riding and I'm pretty sure the cassette was re-fitted and lock nut torqued to 40Nm every time I cleaned the running gear. From this photo of the worst 'bites' it's clear to see that only the anodising has flaked off - the base metal underneath is hardly pitted if you run your fingernail along the spline faces.

To Fresh I'd say contact Greg and see if he can supply you with a better freehub body.

To jacks1071; Fresh claimed that removing the cassette was "a mission" By this I expect Fresh is competant of removing and installing the cassette / has done it before and knows that the task should not be "a mission"...... My point is that any rider wanting to be able to quickly remove a cassette does not want to use any more force than simple hand power to achieve what should be a fast and easy task given the correct tooling. I suggest trying the maker for a better quality item. If had just paid for custom made wheels only 8 months ago I'd be damned if I'd put up with cogs jamming onto a freehub body making the task of removing it "a mission"....
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jacks1071
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Re: TWE wheels

Postby jacks1071 » Mon Jun 20, 2011 9:07 pm

open roader wrote:FWIW this is the Shimano freehub body that was supplied on my TWE Premier free hub.

It's done over 1,500km of not mucking around riding and I'm pretty sure the cassette was re-fitted and lock nut torqued to 40Nm every time I cleaned the running gear. From this photo of the worst 'bites' it's clear to see that only the anodising has flaked off - the base metal underneath is hardly pitted if you run your fingernail along the spline faces.

To Fresh I'd say contact Greg and see if he can supply you with a better freehub body.

To jacks1071; Fresh claimed that removing the cassette was "a mission" By this I expect Fresh is competant of removing and installing the cassette / has done it before and knows that the task should not be "a mission"...... My point is that any rider wanting to be able to quickly remove a cassette does not want to use any more force than simple hand power to achieve what should be a fast and easy task given the correct tooling. I suggest trying the maker for a better quality item. If had just paid for custom made wheels only 8 months ago I'd be damned if I'd put up with cogs jamming onto a freehub body making the task of removing it "a mission"....


Its a bit hard to tell from the pic but photo Open Roader posted looks like it maybe a Shimano 10SP SPECIFIC freehub - the ridges look higher than the pic posted earlier by Fresh. If that is the case - they don't chew up so bad as the ridges are higher, more surface area and all that. The downside of that solution is compatibility, the 10SP specific freehubs became available at about the sametime as the SRAM groupset entered the market. If it is a Shimano 10SP specific freehub - then 8/9 SP cassettes won't fit, and SRAM cassettes won't fit either. For this reason, the Shimano 10SP Specific freehubs arn't often used as standard equipment on wheels.
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eeksll
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Re: TWE wheels

Postby eeksll » Mon Jun 20, 2011 10:11 pm

question though, was it hard to remove because the OP did not know about the occurrence of these so called "love bites". When I removed mine they certainly did not slide off as each cog had notched into the freehub. Once you realise that all you need to do is tap the cassette cogs in the reverse direction to knock it out of the pitt and it will just slip off.

my dt swiss 240s freehub body notched in less than 200km of riding. Having said that, I'd rather it not notch :)

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Re: TWE wheels

Postby steve-waters » Tue Jun 21, 2011 8:37 am

Pulled my cassette off last night after reading this thread - well that and cleaned my chain, greased my Speedplays and rebuilt the cleats. Was more looking to get out of doing a trainer session after hard run in the morning and baby waking few times night before but anyway.

Also worked out I think I need a new chain whip as the roadie is 10 speed and I had trouble getting it to grip it looked too fat to fit.

Mine looked very much like yours OpenRoader although I have done closer to 3-4K km with mine the cleaning cloth did not even catch on the notches - I do remember pulling my MTB cassette off and it looking more like the OP’s both are TWE.

Is a little from column A and column B here – free hub body is soft and perhaps cassette was not tight enough?
Roadie: Merida Scultura Team 2017 with SpeedPlay pedals
MTB: TWE 29er, Fox Terralogic, XT, 3T and TWE wheels

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simonn
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Re: TWE wheels

Postby simonn » Tue Jun 21, 2011 9:12 am

You should see mine! Was riding home a few months ago and all of sudden my smallest sprocket started spinning in place. The end of the splines were stripped. Called Greg and he said it was not a warranty because, as a synopsis of the discussion, the cassette probably was not installed correctly. Which was a bit of a disappointment.

I've done more kms on a cheapo Velocity hub with what looks like a plastic hub.

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Alex Simmons/RST
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Re: TWE wheels

Postby Alex Simmons/RST » Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:37 am

This is, IMO, a design flaw with Shimano (an similar) splines. Campag splines are a much better design, far more robust.

petal665
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Re: TWE wheels

Postby petal665 » Tue Jun 21, 2011 3:08 pm

It's not a design flaw of Shimano splines. Shimano use steel or titanium freehub bodies so this doesn't occur. It's all the cheapy and light freehubs that use alloy that freehubs that cause the problem.

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Re: TWE wheels

Postby Alex Simmons/RST » Tue Jun 21, 2011 3:46 pm

petal665 wrote:It's not a design flaw of Shimano splines. Shimano use steel or titanium freehub bodies so this doesn't occur. It's all the cheapy and light freehubs that use alloy that freehubs that cause the problem.

Shimano did used to use aluminium on DA but had to change the spline design as a result since as you say, their design doesn't work well with aluminium:
http://sheldonbrown.com/dura-ace.html#10

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Re: TWE wheels

Postby petal665 » Tue Jun 21, 2011 3:51 pm

Shimano used alloy on the 7800 freehub body, but they also made the spline very tall like campy. No one seemed to like it and it wasn't compatible with SRAM or 9 speed so they went back to ti.

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