Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
I will soon need to lock my bike up in a secure/monitored bike parking area at the gym - having little faith in humanity, I still want a good quality lock. My bike insurance says I need to use either an 'armour padded lock' with a purchase price in excess of $80; or any D-lock with a purchase price in exces of $60.
Anyone care to suggest some locks for me?
Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit. 16mm shackle to beat the boltcutters (can't get their jaws over it) and small to stop thieves prising it apart with a hydraulic jack - they can't fit the jack in without damaging the bike, which defeats the purpose.
When all else fails, persistence prevails -- Lew Hollander
I agree with TG above. But since I'm only trying to protect a bike worth no more than $200 I got an Evolution Mini instead. Here's a review.
For the ultimate forum thread on secure locks, see below:
I found this informative from page 28 of thread above:
It shows I bought a particular top_of_the_range bike chain lock for a considerable sum to find someone can get through it in less than a minute. We all live and learn I suppose...
Edit: Fixed link as below post.
Last edited by Nobody on Fri Jul 08, 2011 12:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
This Abus Steel-o-Flex 950/100 lock is a bit of a killer, but you might not want to carry it too far.
Or the Abus 1060/110 Granit City Chain - beefy!
Riding bikes in traffic - what seems dangerous is usually safe; what seems safe is often more dangerous.
That link just took me to a reply to this thread - do you have a link to the lock thread? I did search the forum, but couldn't find it
I am confused by this requirement. By purchase price do they mean rrp in Australia? Would you have to show proof of purchase etc if you needed to make a claim? Many expensive abus/kryptonite locks are less than half the price overseas than they are here.
I asked them precisely this question this morning - said that I might purchase from O/S. They told me that they use the Australian RRP. I'll show them the invoice and then some evidence of the Aust. RRP when I get it.
I've got an STD... Kryptonite New York STD that is.
Seems like a decent unit, but how can you test really, other than going by a rating of 11/12.
http://www.kryptonitelock.com/OutletPro ... 0&pid=1096
Try this one:
I was all for the chains until I saw the link I posted on my first reply. I have one of those ABUS chains to lock my best bikes to a ground anchor in the garage, but I'm not so confident now. I think it may be the fifth one in the link below. Fortunately for me, my best bikes probably aren't worth very much on the secondhand market anyway.
11mm is only a medium chain size. 14-16mm are the big ones, and properly treated/hardened, the best ones tend to cause the jaws of the big bolt croppers to bend sideways, which is an expensive discovery for the thief. The main issue with the big chains is proving that they are properly treated, you'll have to destroy a link and a pair of cropper jaws to do that. Also 16mm chains may be beyond the leverage abilities of underweight thieves, as the strategy is to put one lever on the ground and put body weight on the other one, and 30kgs of extra body weight is actually important. If the chain links can't be arranged to be horizontal and on/near the floor, then using body mass leverage on the bolt croppers is also difficult, and even 11mm may survive.
Also you can't walk around with a 36in bolt cropper much (its basically a vehicle transported tool beyond about 100m), and pipes on the handles of a regular set of Bunnings bolt cutters is NOT the same thing. I've owned 4 d-locks (first motorbike one and first bicycle one were thrown after the pen lid thing came to light), and thus far there has been no attempts that I've been aware of to remove one. Jacking generally requires the jack to fit in the d-lock and to be able to put force without turning, and will often destroy the bike frame, or bend the object the bike is locked to. If you have a big d-lock, just have to make sure its set on the bike in ways that include enough things to fill the shackle, and if thats not happening most of the time, buy same thickness, shorter shackle example.
As far as your garage goes, it won't take more than a couple of minutes if they get in there, as once in there, there is little chance of general public observing them once in, and your electricity is there to power their (or your) tools.
Went with an ABUS D-Lock in the end. Went into my LBS at lunch to compare weights, etc - and found that many of their 'cheaper' D-locks were sporting stickers confirming that they were satisfactory for Velosure insurance. Tossing up the security, weight and convenience I went with one that RRPs for $70-odd on AUS ($46 on Wiggle). At the end of the day, if they get thru it (not that I want this to happen) - I have insurance.
Thanks Zero for your experience. True about the short amount of time the chain will hold, but I have the power tools locked up too, so they'll have to bring their own or waste more time breaking into the tool box.
I think if it's that important to protect the bike, put it inside. Hitting the garage is one thing, break and enter into a residence is going to attract more police interest particularly if several grand of items are pinched. I'm a bit cagey about putting a REALLY nice lock on the bike (such as the mini fugedaboutit) because too much security implies value that might not be there. Plus I'll have airhorns and lights and fenders etc which can't be protected by the lock.
I'd be looking at small Dlocks myself. I've got a cheap Dlock at work which I have a VERY strong suspicion was leveraged judging by the peculiar bend in it (subtle, but I can't see how I could have done it) and it held fine. Avoiding bottle jacking and leveraging is easy enough with the mini locks, although I'd recommend against them for bike racks purely because the sheldon brown method is more for the lamppost than a rack.
So there you go. Hope your lock does its job.
Hi tensile chain in 10mm. This cannot be cut cut with standard non-powered cutting equipment and is available to buy in whatever length you want at just about any reputable hardware store which is why you probably won't get it in Brumby's or Mitre 10. I live in Tasmania and got mine from Nubco's. I bought a few meters and used a grinder to cut lengths to lock up my boat, motorbike, chain my spare wheel to the ute and make a bike lock.
Then comes the question of a lock which, if you get a cheap one, will be the weak point in the system. The most cost effective padlock type to get is a shrouded padlock, one which has high sides to make it much harder to get bolt cutters around it.
10mm hi tensile chain sells anywhere from $8- per meter on Ebay to $30- meter delivered to your door.
Shrouded padlocks can sell starting at about 40 bucks for a decent one.
Then all you do is get an old Mountain bike inner tube to sleeve around the chain so it doesn't ding the paintwork. Road inner tubes don't fit 10mm chain.
And remember, as with most things in this life, you get what you pay for. If you go cheap, then don't expect it to stop a real thief.
Thanks for the reply and sorry I missed this.
Do you have a wife and kids? Do you live in a small house? The battle to get the better bikes inside the house for me isn't worth fighting.
Have you read the links in previous posts? 10mm isn't going to stop a heavy person with good bolt croppers. Depends what you are trying to keep I suppose...
We don't have a garage (4 of us living in a townhouse) - and we have 7 bikes between us. Not to mention the 'project' frames sitting under a tarp in the courtyard. When I was living by myself in an apartment, I locked my bike to the bed in the spare bedroom.
When I park at work, the bike sits in my office. I only need the lock for parking at the gym in the mornings.
Yeah we had bikes inside the whole time, but didn't have a garage. I'm going to be putting the bikes on hooks in the garage, but I'll actually make sure I can Dlock the bike to the wall as well for a little extra protection (mainly for weekends away from the house). We've also bought a place that has oodles of storage space. I dunno. It comes down to priorities... I can't afford to lose my bike, I need it for work commuting. I can't lock it up the same as a car. You could probably modify your ceilings to accept half a bike into the roof, have a bit of extra gyprock and hook it from the "ceiling". Should hit heads anymore, and would be a real conversation piece Alternatively, build bike hooks into your skylights. No skylight? Perfect excuse to build one.
I'm in the process of upgrading my bikes bits.
I'm rediscovering how much my bike means to me and how much its equivalent would set me back
Very high on my wish list and soon to get (as soon as my wheels are rebuilt with new rims and spokes),
is a combination of Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit D lock and New York Fahgettaboudit chain.
I realise it wont stop a determined thief but I think it is the best I can do to deter an opportunist one.
Surly Ogre, Carry Freedom Y-frame Trailer, Extrawheel trailer.
Hi guys, looking for advice for a lock to take with me for touring Central & Northern Europe. Will mainly be in rural areas, but will also be occasionally stopping in large towns and cities where theft may be an issue.
Obviously I want something reasonably small, light, versatile and secure. Happy to pay for quality.
Was looking at something like the Kryptonite Evolution Mini-7 with a 4ft cable. Pretty tough and secure, should be enough for urban areas and overkill for peace of mind security while out in rural areas.
Also looked at the Abus Bordo 75cm lock, which also seems pretty decent, although a bit more expensive compared to the Mini-7 & maybe not as versatile.
Last edited by elStado on Mon Jul 25, 2011 1:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
Check out my practical cycling and cycle touring website: VELOPHILE AUSTRALIA
The Abus looks pretty handy and a solid lock.
Riding bikes in traffic - what seems dangerous is usually safe; what seems safe is often more dangerous.
I was in the same situation when I got insurance. I ended up getting a steel-o-flex 800 for $95 from Cranks. I ended up with that cause I wasn't keen on a d-lock and wanted something that would go through both wheels without removing them. Also can loop it across my chest when commuting.
Velosure had a list of pre approved locks from major brands ABUS Kryptonite etc, maybe yours has a similiar list?
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