Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
First post so please be nice
After completing the city to surf I have recently decided my next fitness goal is the Busselton 70.3. So I obviously need a bike, and I have decided on a Specialized Tarmac Sport (i think this is a good choice) and am awaiting delivery.
I have ordered a Giro Ionos helmet off eBay and some shorts. I need a bit of help with recommendations for other essential and nearly essential accessories. I.e. lights, gloves, better shoes? Etc..
I want do it properly and have no issues spending the extra $$$ on things that are worth it. I spend the extra $ on the helmet and am thinking should I do the same with the shoes, so far the LBS has given me a pair for $100...
How much should I spend on decent lights, (there are so many types) which is best??
Do I need gloves in the summer?
Shorts or bib shorts? What's a good price brand to start on? Jersey?
How much or what is a decent lock?
Computer, do I just get a bog standard $30/40 or go for a Garmin? (I am contemplating getting the garmin 910 watch down the road as its recommended for triathalons...)
I look forward to your replies, I'm really looking forward to my new bike
You only really NEED the helmet. Other stuff is optional, regular cyclists will discover that the other parts just make it easier or more comfortable for a long time in the saddle.
Recommend some gloves and cycling shorts for comfort. Full finger for cold, fingerless for warm. Can't recommend any shorts as I only have a cheap pair that I use for extended rides, my bum copes ok without for the most part. (and I'm not a 'team kit' person, preferring to pick the budget brand stuff.
bychosis (bahy-koh-sis): A mental disorder characterised by symptoms, such as delusions or hallucinations, that indicate impaired contact with reality not containing bicycles.
Maybe a saddle bag with a spare tube, patch kit and a tyre lever or two.
Have you got bottle cages and bottles yet? A lot of people prefer the bottles that have the screw-off lid which makes it easier to add your own sports drink powder.
Bib shorts are the choice of most riders, brand is a personal thing though a lot of the real cheap ones can chafe and be uncomfortable. Assos is a top-of-the-line brand which has good reviews but quite pricey.
Gloves are mainly for protection in case you crash and also to stop your hands slipping off the controls when you are hot and sweaty. I've found $5 to do the same job as $35 ones but that may be personal preference like shorts.
Last edited by Ross on Fri Sep 21, 2012 12:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Floor pump if you don't already have one.
Lights, I'm a dynamo guy, so not really applicable to race bikes. I will say that I think good lights are an excellent investment ic you plan to ride at night with any regularity. Personally I regard several hundred dollars as money well spent on lighting. That's for a commuter bike that is often ridden in the dark. I have little el-cheapo lights for my race bike, but it gets ridden at night approximately never.
Ay-up. The basic kit will do. At $275 they're not cheap, but the quality is excellent and on par with lights costing 3 times as much. Mine have been through 3 Melbourne winters now, (rain, hail or shine) and still work like new.
won't start a religious war, but I have a magicshine that cost me $80 (dealextreme) that I get ~5 hours out of the battery on high. it says 900 lumens, but it's probably around 750 lumens = very bright
EDIT: rear lights - I now run too (I commute in all weather)
a radbot 1000 (cost me $34 del)
a $5 smart light rip off (dealextreme)
With an Australian standards sticker? No sticker, no race.
I ride, therefore I am.
...real cyclists don't have squeaky chains...
A lot of things really come down to personal preference, something that I think is great may only be ok for someone else. Having said that, if I was you (and I had plenty of cash to spend) this is what I would buy:
Shoes: go for some with a nice stiff carbon sole - I have the specialized s-works road shoes (I think they were about $400)
Lights: Ay-ups, you can't go wrong with Ay-ups
Bib shorts: I pretty much only wear castelli free aero race bibshorts, usually about $150 from wiggle
Jerseys: Get one with deep pockets, I hate jerseys with shallow pockets that you can't fit stuff into. I like TwinSix.
Computer: Get the garmin, I bought my girlfriend a 310xt for her triathlons and she said it was great
TT bars: If you are doing a half ironman then you will want some TT bars to get you into that aerodynamic position, I think profile are ok, I can't remember what mine are
Gloves: Yes, any short finger gloves will do the job for summer, get the ones you like the look of
Tools/puncture repair: Get some spare tubes, tyre levers, small multitool (with allen keys), mini pump. (And learn how to use it all). As mentioned above you'll need a floor pump too. Other things to consider - torque wrench, pedal spanner, chain breaker, cassette lockring tool
Maintenance: Chain lube (I use pro-link gold, but chain lube can be a very personal thing so use whatever you like). I would also recommend that you learn how the bike works, buy a book like Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance
And if you are really serious...
Race Wheels: Triathletes love deep rims, get some race wheels (Zipp 808s or any other deep carbon rims, Cycling Express have a special on wheels at the moment, $999 for Reynolds Assault wheelset looks ok)
Aero Helmet: There are only a couple that have the aus standads sticker, specialized and something else (can't remember which), you will go faster (or at least look more pro, as long as you don't wear it backwards)
TriSuit: I'm not actually a triathlete so I can't comment on which are the best, but triathlon specific clothes are best for racing
Eyewear: Oakley Jawbones, Oakley Radars
Bike Bag: Scicon Aero Comfort, you want your bike to arrive in WA intact
*note: I tend to err on the side of higher end gear, and it has worked out well for me, but be warned that once you have sampled the good stuff you are unlikely to settle for second best... this can be expensive
There are plenty of cheaper options available that will do just as good a job, but if you get this stuff you will fit in with the crowd
Giant Reign 3 | Trek 8000 | Trek Madone 4.5 | Look 695 SR ipack | Fuji Track 1.1
should sticky a list like this somewhere on the forum
Another vote for Ayups, no question. I have had Ayups for 4 years+ and ~40,000km and they have survived stacks and storms without blinking. Had to get a new battery 3 months ago though as there was a break in the cable (after ~3 years). Resoldered a couple of times, but in the end just thought frock it, I'm getting a new one - which can run at half power for ~12 hours (needed on 400km rides and plenty of light).
I do not know anyone who has put Magicshines through the same paces.
For rear, PDL Radbot 1000. Better than a superflash from a durability POV (IME) and also has arear reflector killing two legal birds with one plastic mount.
Yes. For stacks as previously mentioned. I wear full finger year round. Get some winter gloved when winter comes along too - even at this time of year gorges in Sydney can be freezing at or before dawn.
Bib shorts, unless you need to go pee pee or poo poo a lot . My Castelli bib shorts have been excellent. Jersey, whatever. Just make sure you have decent pockets etc.
Check wiggle, evans cycles, chain reaction cycles, ribble etc.
If you are getting a gps watch (probably a good idea for tri?), I'd just go with a wired cheapie personally. FWIW, I use a Sigma 1606L wired for speed and stuff. I use my mobile (Samsung Galaxy Nexus - spare batteries FTW!) to record GPS traces (for strava etc). I also use a Garmin eTrex Vista HCX (hiking) GPS for navigation (and recording a track), and speed and distance in the dark, on Audax rides because it (was cheap! and) uses AA batteries. The garmins simply don't really have a long enough charge for much > 200km rides and do not allow spare batteries either. Sure you can screw around with USB battery packs and stuff, but meh AA batteries are simpler. I have thought about getting a gps/HR watch if/when I start training properly so I can use the HR at the gym too (and my wife seems to have commandeered my watch "it's good for surfing!" anyway).
Also, spare tubes, pump, puncture repair kit/stick on patches, tyre levers and multi tool (at least 3,4,5,6mm hex keys, philips and flat head screwdrivers). Also put a couple of $5 notes in there to use as tyre boots should you need them.
"My bicycle masters boardwalk and quagmire with aplomb. Those that doubt me... suck THUMB by choice."
How's it go in the rain?
Ayups are a sealed unit. I've dropped them, stood on them ['cos I'm completely 'unco' sometimes] and run them through some very heavy rain. They're scratched and dinted, but seem like they'll run forever. One guy on here used his underwater for a photo.
mine has a relatively well sealed battery unit. this is the one I have. have ridden through all crap with mine. no problems. has survived 2 winters. would happily purchase mine again.
thank you all for taking time to respond!! I really appreiate your honest feedback.
Thanks Ross, I am pretty sure my LBS are hooking me up with a saddle bag
i am getting bottle cages but no bottles picket yet so will look for screw-off lids.
I am going to pick a pair (AT) half price ($20)from TBE, so not paying over the odds. Although I have not found a pair for $5??
Last edited by Hughesy on Fri Sep 21, 2012 1:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Floor pump, Do I really need a floor one to start off on? I was hoping to just get a portable one to get me started?
Yep, a floor pump makes it sooooo much easier to put the right pressure in your tyres. A potable does the job and you should carry one on your bike for emergencies, or CO2, or both but will be hard work to check your tyre pressures and pump up before each ride.
+1 on the floor pump. Depending upon your weight, you'll need to put up to 100psi into your tyres. Some people go up to 120psi, but you don't need to do that if you're not racing.
Either way, it'll be difficult [but not impossible] without a floor pump. I have the Lezyne Steel Floor Drive and would highly recommend it.
Another +1 to a floor pump, trying to get over 100psi without one is really hard work, and you don't want to have to do that before every ride (you need to check your tyre pressure before every ride)
I like the Joe Blow
Giant Reign 3 | Trek 8000 | Trek Madone 4.5 | Look 695 SR ipack | Fuji Track 1.1
Wow, $275... I didnt think they would cost that much but can see the value in decent ones, and I would like light ones...
It also looks like a number of other people recomment them:
Phew, I saw your message and nearly pooped myself.
Just checked and I bought it from Victoria with the title "Giro Ionos Road Helmet Australian Standards Approved".. Here it is for those interested http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300777277841?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Looks like I am showing my rookie status, I didnt think I would need to pump the tyres before every ride
Ok, message recieved, I will be needing a floor pump What price should I pay?
Last edited by jasonc on Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
As you said you're doing Bussleton 70.3 so you will need....
Wheels: recomend Corecarbon
Helmets x 2: One Aero, One Regular
Shoes x 1: Carbon Fibre Sole triathlon type
Tri suit: 2XU
Front Light: Moon makes a good light and is cheaper than that one that everyone on here has (Ayups... I didn't like them)
Gloves x 2 (Winter/summer)
Arm cover to protect from sun
Arm warmers for cold
Garmin (nothing else matters, then sign up for strava...)
Leg warmers for cold
booties to cover shoes
base layer for chest
razors for shaving legs
Socks (correct length please)
Wheels (must have two sets)
Chain lube (I suggest a wax one)
Sunglasses (whatever works - I've lost 5 pairs of oakleys)
Butt Cream (Chamois Cream)
That other chaffing cream
bandaids for nipples...
That's about it... I'm sure I've missed something
Oil to make your legs look extra defined
Shoot, my bad, you'll also need a Shiv (Tri Bike)
That doesn't seem too expensive
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