Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
Long time lurker, first time contributor - looking for some advice.
I've been doing a lots of kms recently in preparation for Around The Bay, and my wheels have just about had it (thousands of kms and 7 years of faithful service). Sunday will be their last hurrah. I've been looking around for a new wheelset for a while, but am aware that at 95kg a fancy 18-spoke straight pull arrangement might lead to me replacing a fair few spokes in the future, and some long walks home.
I've been looking at a few sets (Shimano RS80, Mavic Ksyrium or Open Pro), would love something aero (hence the RS80s) but not sure if this is unrealistic? Through the summer will probably average only 150km a week on them (commute on another bike), living in Canberra so it's 'undulating' (read 'hilly') so don't want anything that's going to flex.
So, my question is: is buying a set with a larger number of spokes something or a more traditional arrangement something I need to worry about at 95kg?
If it is, are there any wheelsets anyone can recommend? Shimano, less than $1000.
Any thoughts or comments appreciated.
Try Velocity Deep V's. 32 spoke and pretty much indestructible. Cost you around $600.
A bit heavy but tough
"Pain is temporary. It may last a minute, or an hour, or a day, or a year, but eventually it will subside and something else will take its place. If I quit, however, it lasts forever" Lance Armstrong
Velomine has deep Vs on Ultegra hubs with DT swiss spokes for $US 269 + about $60 postage. Can't go wrong. I've bought a few sets of wheels (and other odds and ends from Ben at Velomine). Never any drama. Drop him an email and have a chat.
I dont think you would have a problem with RS80s. Im 105kg and had a set for over a year, no broken spokes, no flexing wen climbing, I think they are a great wheelset being lightweight also.
Up to you but you dont need to go custom or 32h imho
I have a set of Velocity deep v, fusion and aeroheads. All are rock solid wheels (I am 100kg) and the fusions have come thru 2 incidents with cars without a problem. Had a set of H+son TB14 made up a couple of months ago (chorus hubs). Superb wheels, the look may not suit your ride but they are solid and corner beautifully
Ever since the vasectomy...I mostly ride fixed.
If you have a look here:
http://www.pro-liteoz.com/store/index.p ... t&catId=18
We (Pro-Lite) have got the Como, Merano and Bracciano - all are fine for your weight. The most heavy duty set are the Como, followed by Merano and then Bracciano. You could buy a set of each and still have change from your budget
Our Website is: http://www.pro-liteoz.com Find us on Facebook by searching for "Pro-Lite Australia"
Most commercial wheels these days have quite a strong rating on them (bar carbon wheels as they are more performance orientated), so most weights with be comfortable on them. I'd suggest staying with something like a Shimano dura ace c24 alloy clincher wheel rather than any deeper, they are very strong (even though they don't look it), and are and install-and-forget item.
Thanks for the feedback all.
The Velocity Deep Vs and the Bracciano's definitely warrant a further look.
An interesting mix of views that "nah, commercial wheels will take a big load" vs "you'll need something bombproof". They'll be going on a 2010 Litespeed C3, if that makes any difference to opinions? (i say it because i once rode a cheap bike where the forks flexed when i did my best Cavendish impression)
Spoke count is significant as if you break a spoke on a low spoke count wheel, you could be walking. On a high spoke count wheel, you may not even notice. I broke a spoke on a 28 spoke MTB wheel two weeks ago and it took a day or so to notice.
Lower spoke count factory wheels can take a big load, but for how many thousands on kilometres with a heavy rider? If you break a C24 spoke, can you get a replacement easily?
I recommend a custom set at your weight and intended use. A set of Ultegra/open pros would suit you nicely. They are a very durable and should last you ages. Since the rim is fairly light (435g), it will still be fairly responsive even though the complete wheelset weight is around 1800g. The cheapest price I have found for a set is at BWW (click here). Since they are built 32 3x they should hold your weight no issues, and if you do happen to break a spoke you should still be able to limp home (good luck doing this on a 20/24 wheel). The spokes on these wheels are also commonly available for under $2, unlike mavic, fulcrum or other companies who charge $20 for a spoke and make you wait 2 weeks for one to ship in. Other rims to consider as a base of your wheelset are the kinlin XR-300 (I'm selling a set now, although the spoke count is a little low for you) or the XR-270, both are a similar weight to the Open pro's but they have a deeper profile. Although the BWW buying guide is targeted at their range, it sill offers some solid information. Worth a read IMO if you want to give custom wheels a go
BWW's website says they don't freight to Australia(when you try getting the rate in a shopping basket of wheels). As someone a few kg heavier than you, I'd advise going for the 36 spoke Open Pro or Deep Vee rims from Velomine. They are so cheap that it's almost not worth getting the parts and building them up yourself, even from a cheap source like Bike24. In deference to those who say "custom" I'd spend just a tiny bit of the savings going to someone who doesn't just build wheels but who will check that the spoke tension is even all the way round both, and pretty tight. Machine built wheels can turn out with variable spoke tension. Why I say "pretty tight" is that I know I can use the Park spoke tension gauge I have to set about 130kg indicated tension in each spoke with Deep Vees, and pretty close to that with Mavic CXP33s, CXP30s and Open Pros, but with many older, cheaper and lower section rims you start to introduce buckles into the rim rather than get them straight at higher tension so you finish up stopping around 100 to 110kg. That's indicated on my gauge which was new when I got it and hasn't been mistreated - but it hasn't been calibrated so I'm not sure about specifying a value absolutely to be seen on other gauges.
Why I go into detail about the spoke tension is that the best wheels I have had that last the longest are the ones that start off true and with high-ish tension. I had a pair of DT Swiss R520 rims on Surly flip flop hubs on my fixie that my 110kg son now rides around the inner city. The wheel build was a custom one for a guy who had high standards and the wheels are still dead true after over 10000km of around town and bike paths, and they are up around 130kg tension by my measure. (All that gives me grief with those are the 7901 angular contact bearings that Surly used. Does anyone have good instructions for reinstalling new ones?) Those rims (and the RR465) from DT Swiss are under $60 like the Open Pros or CXP33s and rated to 110kg by DT Swiss. I've not seen rider weight ratings from Mavic and Velocity, but they'd be up there, probably a bit higher for the Deep Vees.
2014 goal 52000m
A riding buddy recently had some wheels built using Mavix CXP33 rims (on my recommendation) using 32 spokes and they are rock solid (he weighs around 105kg). This rim is stronger than an Open Pro due to the greater rim depth.
Following some of the feedback off this forum, I purchased a set of Pro-lite Comos. I had my LBS fit a new cassette and I fitted the wheels last night - cannot wait to get out for a pedal today!
When I bought the bike (used) it had a set of Shimano WH-R550 fitted, but I just couldn't get over the 16f / 20r spoke count - always had me concerned as I am a statuesque sort of a bloke! Hopefully these Comos live up to expectations!
BTW - the bike, with cage / pump / saddle bag weighed in at 9.9kg with the Shimano rims on and is now at 10.2kg with the Comos - so not too bad.
good choice - my como's cop a pounding and still going strong after over 6000kms
I am 110kg and got greg to make me a pair and they are fanbloodytastic and they cost me less that your stated budget. Happy to recommend them to anyone
my bike is the felt half way down the page
2011 Felt F75
2012 Fuji Nevada 2.0
Custom wheels are always the way to go if you're not the standard 67% (or whatever that figure is) and are still the way to go if you are in it . A set of Custom wheels may look heavier, but the rims are usually much lighter than factory options. A good example of this is the Ultegra Open-Pro combos, It has a 435g rim but it comes out to around 2kg Most factory wheels of that weight will have a 500-600g rim. I suspect that the rim of the Como's will be around 550g. Pro-lite need to use a stiffer/heavier rim to make up for the low spoke count. I personally don't like this trend as when/if you break a spoke the wheels will be unrideable because you have such a low count, and you are more likely to break one (or many) because each spoke does more work. I'd reserve low spoke counts to racing/weekend wheels personally, don't drink the kool-aid.
I actually had a conversation along these lines on the bunchy this morning. So many of the lighter wheelsets these days incorporate lightweight hubs and reduced spoke count with heavier rims. So many people fail to see that a wheelset with more spokes and a lighter rim would actually "feel" lighter on the spinup and in climbing. Market hype......yessiree.
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