Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
17 posts • Page 1 of 1
I just spotted this on cyclingdeal.com.au for $49 dollars http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/bicycle-bike-torque-wrench-allen-key-tool-socket-set-kit/VZ-F33-031?utm_source=myshopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bicycle+Accessories&utm_term=Bicycle+Bike+Torque+Wrench+Allen+Key+Tool+Socket+Set+Kit
Seems like a good price but i was wondering what the quality is like and if anyone has used it or can recommend something else for a similar price?
If you want an accurate one, buy from someone who calibrates the torque wrench at time of sale. Even and accurate one is only 25% accurate compared with the bolt stretch it is trying to produce. That also depends on the lubricant used (if any). Estimation is considered generally to be 35% accurate.
In other words, if you want to buy cheap, don't worry about the accuracy or bother asking about it. The only way to know for sure is to get it calibrated, which will probably cost more than the initial sale.
If you don't have carbon and you are not ham-fisted, then you probably don't need it.
The only carbon on my bike is the seatpost and the fork, i was mainly wanting to by one for peace of mind when tightening things like the headset etc but with the help of youtube i diagnosed a slightly loose bolt on the top cap and tightened it up some more and it's all good.
I'm still undecided about getting one but i think i will leave it for now as i have other more important purchases to make at the moment like wet weather gear as the weather and cold is keeping me off the bike atm.
Agree with that, I barley use my Torque wrench anymore because I know what each setting approximatley feels like
With that Torque Wrench, I have one and its accurate, Its cheap because its not a digital one and its sourced direct from manufacturor
Did you get your feel for torque settings from using your torque wrench initially, or did you always know instinctively what they felt like?
By initially using a nice torque wrench, I still do, but if it gives a fairly wide range (like my seatpost, 2-8nm) I just do it by hand (read lazy ).
Opinions can be divided on this topic, but I think that a good mechanic should not need a torque wrench, they should be able to 'guestimate' the torque.
Even mates of mine who are bike mechs don't use torque wrenches all the time, preferring to go by feel etc.
You'd be suprised how much 4-5nm of torque is on a bolt.
Proudly "a hater of academics with helmet cams"
Moment I got my torque wrench I went and checked some bolts out. Guess what they were under specced, up they go and I had done it by feel before.
The torque wrench in the ops post is one that is used by many a manufacturer I think, it's a dead ringer for my BBB one
Masi Speciale CX 2008 - Brooks B17 special saddle, Garmin Edge 810
Cool. I have done the same thing as you. However, the guys posting about information on torque wrenches on this forum (I am being presumptuous here) I imagine are not experienced (bike) mechanics, therefore are unlikely to know what 5 nm or whatever feels like. They are ask for opinions and all they get told is "you don't need one of them, do it by feel. I have been using the force for years, so you should be able to as well."
Doing things by 'feeeeel' usually requires the learning of the task and then repetitively doing the task until it can be done instinctively. Anyway, thats my take on this.
Also, that looks like the wrench I have. It seems to work fine. I dont know if it was calibrated, but it gets the bolts torqued close to the specs within the acceptable limits (I assume this last bit).
I've bought that one. Seems to work fine, never broken anything by overtightening with it and never had anything wobble loose either. No idea how accurate it is but I THINK it came with some paperwork saying it was approx 5%-10% leeway.
VERY bad idea to go by feel if it's important to not break something... if you care about your carbon, you'll torque it via a wrench.
Screws can EASILY strip or get stuck on the thread, especially if you've been putting lube or loctite on the bolt... you use a torque wrench because it removes the guesswork. Me? I tighten the hell out of the bolts, but I wasn't the best car mechanic and I used the rattlegun without prejudice. I am not prepared to risk my Madone under such behaviour.... particularly when you are exposing the bike to the elements etc etc etc.
Torque wrench? Pffffffftttt!!!
Tighten till it goes loose.
Then back a quarter turn.
My bike blog. Long on rumination, rambling and opinion. Why let facts ruin everything?
I would trust my feel more than I trust a cheap torque wrench... but then I was moto mechanic for many of my younger years I think my feel is pretty good. One of the companies I work with has the same brand as the OP is looking at I think, bugger if I was going to keep cranking the thing till it clicked. They are a once in a lifetime buy ( well unless you sell them all like I did ) ... so get a good one.
I had a argument with a met who owns the my LBS and he always said he could tell exactly how tight everything should be. Put him up against a electronic torque wrench.
He know uses one all the time.
Veni, Vidi, Vespa -- I Came, I Saw, I Rode Home
Yep, if it matters to do it up to a certain torque, you can't just make it up. CF is a bit more finicky I reckon because you can't really afford to cause structural integrity or safety issues from over or under loose bolts. Steel and Alu will at least shear and strip before cracking the tube.
Most bolts don't result in you eating pavement after bunnyhopping a pothole, but bike bolts can.
17 posts • Page 1 of 1
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