Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
Don't know how they're viewed in road circles but Chris King will have hubs in those drillings and based upon my MTB ones, I wouldn't even consider any others if I was having custom wheels built.
Broke the hub where the spokes mount on my 18? spoke AC420 front wheel.
1 x spoke on a 16 spoke shimano whr 550 front.
Able to finish the ride both times but the rim was still rubbing the pads with the brakes opened up, such was the buckle in the wheels.
I think it depends a lot on the rider, not just their build, but style as well in regard to one's propensity for spoke breakage. I'm a flyweight, and also not particularly hard on gear, so my spoke attrition is minimal. In fact I can't recall the last time I had one break for no apparent reason. I broke two in a Shimano Deore XT 20-spoke MTB front wheel last year when I stuffed an obstacle & shoved a foot into the wheel, and I bent two in a R-550 rear many years ago when a drink bottle fell into it. My commuter bike has 18/20 spoke Mavic Ksyrium Elites (which have never been touched with a spoke key in 7 years!), and my other roadie has a set of 20/24 spoke Gravity Zeros (which I built myself), and have also never needed tweaking. Prior to the XTs on the MTB, I had a set of Mavic rims/Shimano SLX hubs, 32 each end, also built personally, and never had a problem with. So Iv'e had a good run with both factory-spec and hand-built wheels (technically, the Gravity Zero are factory-spec, but I used to work for them as a builder - I can guarantee they are all handbuilt. )
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.
No 20h rear though.
Oh you want matching hubs
I agree with the weight component of your statement and type of use. I'm now 74 kgs and do a fair bit of bunch riding. I always unweight the bike over bumps I cant avoid but in a bunch the vision is not there and you can't swerve if a pot hole or rock is not called out you just hit them unfortunately.
I also run my tyres at fairly high pressure, can't remeber the last pinch flat but have broken a few spokes.
Both those front wheels that failed had a fair few kms on them. The spokes being limited in number are under higher stress than if there were more of them. Over time the more use, the higher the likelihood of failure.
There is not really any option to change my style of use so they are what they are.
That drink bottle sacrificed itself to further your enjoyment of cycling and should go "straight to the pool room"
Those rear wheels are a POS, mine broke multiple spokes and flexed so much it was fortunate to have the brake pads in place to stop it hitting the chain stays.
They are not light and don't even have the saving grace of being strong to compensate the weight penalty. In the bin and long gone.
Wow, it seems I am last on this bus ...
Wheelbuilders are like accountants, politicians, doctors, and bike shops - there are good ones and bad ones.
The proof is in the pudding. Just because someone works in a bike shop, does not mean they know how to build wheels. Conversely, just because someone calls themselves a wheelbuilder, does not mean they will build you a reliable wheel.
Both the Zen guys and Eric know their stuff. They are certainly professionals.
I understand. I build no more than about 6-8 wheels in a day. I do recall seeing a video of a happy little Taiwanese man who was very proud of his 60 wheels in a day. Lacing, tensioning, stress relieving, etc - but to be fair he doesn't spend any time talking to the customer about how they ride, where, what frame the wheels will go on, their aspirations, tyre choices, longer term plans for the wheels, etc.
.... and overbuilt for some as well. These low spoke counts are usually paired with heavier rims to preserve some stiffness and strength. Sure you can buy something off the shelf that will be solid for a rider of 120kgs, but if you weigh 70kgs you are carrying around a whole heap of weight and additional stiffness that you don't need.
Mass production really does have it's price benefits, but there will be compromises you make as a result. The wheel is designed for a certain demographic, which may not be you. That's okay with me, if it is okay with you.
Yep, err on the side of reliability and easy to get parts, and you will never be off the road for long (or on the side of the road for long).
Both White Industries and Royce will do 16f/20r if you need it, but there might be a wait.
There are lots of posts here about White Industries hubs being a good choice. I do agree. Reliable, quite light and beautifully made. The Ti freehub body is a bonus. I have several pairs that have been used on several sets of rims, over the last 10-20 years.
I can say the same for Campag hubs (as that's what I ran for nearly 20 years) and I rebuild wheels with lots of DA and Ultegra/600/XTR hubs as well.
Most of the higher end hubs from the small component makers, Campag, and Shimano are designed to last a very long time, so your investment can be spread over several wheelsets. I have found that many lower end factory wheelsets are built to a more limited lifespan.
It'll go out of true and the brakes may or may not rub. Not sure how that'd make you "toast" - as long as you don't panic and abandon ship you'll be fine...
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