Which 50mm Carbon Wheels

[steveo]

Hi there

I'm thinking of buying new wheels and have the following in mind.

1. Mavic Cosmic Carbone SLR with exalith 2 braking surface.
2. Mavic Cosmic Carbone SLE with exalith 2 braking surface.
3. Zipp Firecrest Carbon Clincher.

Any advice or experience with these wheels would be appreciated. I am 100kg rider. I am also thinking of joining a club and riding in crits soon.

Kind regards

[AlMac]

They say the exalith braking surface wears in. Three thousand kms and one set of brake pads later my mate's still squeal like a stuck pig. Sounds awful.

At least everyone knows when you are braking.

Get some Zipps online. Good option.

[sumgy]

Wait UNTIL you are riding crits.
You have no real use for them until then.

[rabobank89]

Wait UNTIL you ate riding crits.
You have no real use for them until then.

What he said....

100kg on Carbon wheels

[sumgy]

What he said....

100kg on Carbon wheels

Not worried how much he weighs really.
Just dont see any reason to have 50mm CF wheels unless you are racing.

Completely pointless for anything other than that purpose.

[warthog1]

Plenty of people on carbon wheels who don't race. If they help you get out on your bike or roll through on that fast bunch ride then go for it.

[sumgy]

Plenty of people on carbon wheels who don't race. If they help you get out on your bike or roll through on that fast bunch ride then go for it.

Not saying there isn't.
But I am entitled to my opinion that they are completely pointless for anything other than racing.
They are rubbish in the wind, rubbish for descending, rubbish in the wet, provide no benefit for climbing.

Why would you want them unless you are racing except that they make your bike look cool?

[toolonglegs]

Strava KOM's are as good as a reason as any to have a fast bike .
With the exalith surface you just need lots of toe in if your brakes are squealing... set them up with a business card ( or two ) under the rear portion of the pad to make it easy.

[Xplora]

You could pay for 12 months coaching and training with that cash, and certainly get better results in the races. Stronger legs gets better watts onto the ground than aero wheels especially since you are built for short distances

[Nobody]

Strava KOM's are as good as a reason as any to have a fast bike .

At least WH1 will have a use for his TT bike now.

With the exalith surface you just need lots of toe in if your brakes are squealing... set them up with a business card ( or two ) under the rear portion of the pad to make it easy.

IMO, toe is just a detuning method. The more toe-in/out, the less power. From the link below it appears the rims have more grip (18% more in wet) which probably means it needs specific anti-squeal (usually harder) pads which is also a detuning method. The only other options are to get a stiffer fork and/or brake to stop the vibrations or give up and get another front wheel.
http://www.mavic.com.au/en/technology/wheels/Exalith-2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Marty Moose]

Just buy the wheels YOU like best I'd take any of those, not sure about the mavics but I've seen zipps fail a few times now with stronger/bigger riders.

Sent from my MB526 using Tapatalk 2

[warthog1]

Plenty of people on carbon wheels who don't race. If they help you get out on your bike or roll through on that fast bunch ride then go for it.

Not saying there isn't.
But I am entitled to my opinion that they are completely pointless for anything other than racing.
They are rubbish in the wind, rubbish for descending, rubbish in the wet, provide no benefit for climbing.

Why would you want them unless you are racing except that they make your bike look cool?

I ride, well hang off the back of , some ex-international racers who no longer race. It just happens the town I've moved to is a bit of a mecca for cycling.
404's and yishun carbons in there. If it's good enough for them, why not?
I'm scratching for some yishun 50-60 mm clinchers to make it easier to keep up
I've got some 85mm tubulars and won't use them 'cause of the tubular factor, even they aren't that bad in the wind though.

[warthog1]

Strava KOM's are as good as a reason as any to have a fast bike .

At least WH1 will have a use for his TT bike now.

I'll just stick to hanging off the back of the peleton, I can't tt as fast as that anyway

[Marty Moose]

Strava KOM's are as good as a reason as any to have a fast bike .

At least WH1 will have a use for his TT bike now.

I'll just stick to hanging off the back of the peleton, I can't tt as fast as that anyway

Cept the bunches I ride with know where they are it makes it a sprint fest to win a Kom :) Its great fun and really fun at the coffee shop afterwards Now where are my carbon clinchers

Sent from my MB526 using Tapatalk 2

[warthog1]

Cept the bunches I ride with know where they are it makes it a sprint fest to win a Kom :) Its great fun and really fun at the coffee shop afterwards Now where are my carbon clinchers

Sent from my MB526 using Tapatalk 2

[sumgy]

I ride, well hang off the back of , some ex-international racers who no longer race. It just happens the town I've moved to is a bit of a mecca for cycling.
404's and yishun carbons in there. If it's good enough for them, why not?
I'm scratching for some yishun 50-60 mm clinchers to make it easier to keep up
I've got some 85mm tubulars and won't use them 'cause of the tubular factor, even they aren't that bad in the wind though.

Sure, you are entitled to do what you like.

[toolonglegs]

Toe actually increase braking power IMO as smooth braking is going to be better than a vibrating poorly setting brake... With toe in you still get full pad contact on the rim, you just get more pressure on the leading edge which allows the pad to engage smoothly.
Not needed quite often though... but usually when it is... then it really is needed. The sound of squealing carbon wheels in races is criminal ( and bloody annoying! ) ... plus after a season racing cross you get damn good at getting the most out of your brakes.

[Nobody]

Toe actually increase braking power IMO as smooth braking is going to be better than a vibrating poorly setting brake... With toe in you still get full pad contact on the rim, you just get more pressure on the leading edge which allows the pad to engage smoothly.

Once again we'll just have to agree to disagree on this one. I'm not talking about the slower frequency vibration but squealing. Yes, squealing pads lose a bit of power but I think toe loses more. At least it appeared to when I was doing testing of this and annoying the neighbors. Since using a stronger fork, the same brakes with the same pads don't squeal and that is setting the MTB pads flat on the rim.
viewtopic.php?f=72&t=59879" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[bardygrub]

Hi Steveo,

First things first, check out the below thread.
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=55696" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I am now looking at also getting new wheels. One thing which i have found recently, is those that have 50mm+ deep rims will tell you this and that about how the rims are no good in a cross wind no good for climbing no good for desending and so fourth all while riding/training on thier 50mm deep rims i think the fact is they know how good they are and dont want others to know about it! If you are at the 100 kg mark your body mass is alot more to worry about in a cross wind than 50mm deep dish rims.

My style of riding is what they call heavy and i put alot of strain on my front wheel im also around the 100kg mark im 6'2" and around 96kg. I dont see any problem with riding /training on deep dish as there are alot of people doing it, unless you want that extra boost on race day. But lets face it its the engine that does up to 97% off the work.

I have a meeting with my lbs on thursday to discuss what wheels to go for due to destroying 2 front mavic aksiums in 6 months(yet i have never had an issue with the rear)

And the # 1 factor about getting deep dish rims is the BLING!! so go for it.

[steveo]

Thanks WH1. Never heard of the Yishun brand, their 60mm carbon wheels have a rider weight limit of 115kg's. Anyone had an experience with these wheels, build quality etc.

Not saying there isn't.
But I am entitled to my opinion that they are completely pointless for anything other than racing.
They are rubbish in the wind, rubbish for descending, rubbish in the wet, provide no benefit for climbing.

Why would you want them unless you are racing except that they make your bike look cool?[/quote]

I ride, well hang off the back of , some ex-international racers who no longer race. It just happens the town I've moved to is a bit of a mecca for cycling.
404's and yishun carbons in there. If it's good enough for them, why not?
I'm scratching for some yishun 50-60 mm clinchers to make it easier to keep up
I've got some 85mm tubulars and won't use them 'cause of the tubular factor, even they aren't that bad in the wind though.[/quote]

[rabobank89]

http://www.cyclingtips.com.au/2011/08/a ... ted-equal/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[clydesmcdale]

Thanks WH1. Never heard of the Yishun brand, their 60mm carbon wheels have a rider weight limit of 115kg's. Anyone had an experience with these wheels, build quality etc.

Not saying there isn't.
But I am entitled to my opinion that they are completely pointless for anything other than racing.
They are rubbish in the wind, rubbish for descending, rubbish in the wet, provide no benefit for climbing.

Why would you want them unless you are racing except that they make your bike look cool?

I ride, well hang off the back of , some ex-international racers who no longer race. It just happens the town I've moved to is a bit of a mecca for cycling.
404's and yishun carbons in there. If it's good enough for them, why not?
I'm scratching for some yishun 50-60 mm clinchers to make it easier to keep up
I've got some 85mm tubulars and won't use them 'cause of the tubular factor, even they aren't that bad in the wind though.[/quote][/quote]

I've ridden with a guy who rides Mavic Cosmic Carbone SLR with exalith 2 braking surface and when set up they sound awesome when braking... not squeeling, like a plane coming into land or something. Really cool.

As for the chinese wheels, I'm a heavy rider (95-100kg) and mine have been fine for 2-2.5k km but have recently sheared a few nipples on short sharp blasts, either up a climb or blasting a sprint. The spokes haven't broken, just the nipple sheared off at the rim. I'll soon be replacing them with brass and making sure all the spokes are properly threaded in and lubed. So something to consider if going down that route.

If i were to choose again and had the cash, i'd be coosing the Carbones. But i'd be looking into if they can handle the torque you'd be laying down.

The reason I have them... they look cool and riding a cool looking bike makes me want to ride more often and longer.

[steveo]

http://www.cyclingtips.com.au/2011/08/a ... ted-equal/

Interesting article.

[bardygrub]

http://www.cyclingtips.com.au/2011/08/a ... ted-equal/

Well after reading all of that, you get to the last bit(which i have pasted below) you just dont know.Not once do they say that these cheaper bike are crap!


""You just don’t know the process, materials and quality control that these cheap no-name bikes have been through. If the worst were to happen and your frame snapped in half while going down a descent you don’t have anything to fall back on. Reputable bicycle brands need to go through homologation procedures in order to import and sell in Australia. This costs money, but it also adds a degree of confidence that your bike has been tested properly (which doesn’t necessarily mean that your $4000 frame will never fail).""

[AndrewBurns]

My chinese carbon frame has been fine for over a year now with one decent crash to its name. The only issues of chinese carbon frames I've heard of failing are the same two or three from a few years ago that have been attributed to assembly error (over-torquing screws, sanding down steerer tubes). The chinese factories make open mold frames AND name brand frames and they're all tested so it's not like either one is going to be less reliable. There are plenty of reports of name brand frames cracking through normal use and lots of people complaining about how poor the warrenty service is so it's not like paying more for name brand will even ensure you have an easier life. Concerns of chinese frames and wheels not meeting strength or quality standards vs. name brand are all fear and missinformation.